#20 #6 #26 #7 ??Questions??

[SVT4ME]

I have recently decided to start taking detailing more seriously and have always used Meguiars products. I find Meguiars is making it too complicated for a person to choose their brand. Your professional line #'s seem to be random and the descriptions of many products sound way too close to eachother.

I can not by just the descriptions decide which product is more abrasive than another or which shines better than another. I believe Meguiars needs to make some sort of a chart or scale to help potential customes pick the right product. I know there may be more info on the bottle but that doesnt help when trying to order online.

I really doubt someone at Meguairs can put together a small guide on your professional series #'ered paint detailing products and post it somewhere here on the forums? An abrasion scale would be nice for the polishes too!

Take for example. I have a 96 Mustang Cobra with new paint, I want to add a glaze or polish so I know I barely want any cutting action since the paint is new and here seems to be the most sutable products,

1. Machine Glaze
2. Show Car Glaze
3.New car Glaze

Reading their descriptions make them all sound simular.

Anyway, any help would be appreciated, I was close to going with Klasse but im a tad Meguiars Loyal still.

[mopar]

if your paint is in like new condition new car glaze should do the trick

[mopar]

also (you probly already know)you are spose to let your paint cure for about 3 to 6 months i think also try the car car rx i found it very helful there is a link right on the meguiars home page at the bottom right

[SVT4ME]

Yes, I will let it cure till next winter but in the meantime I would like to treat my 2002 Dakota Quad Cab. I figure Ill practice on my $28000 truck before I try it on my $12000 car :D

[Don]

For the Mustang, you would be fine using any of the three you mentioned...aside from the chemists saying "...they're totally different products..." I think you'll find that the 'street level user' might notice that ease of use is the only real difference. This is pretty much a subjective thing and will vary greatly depending on your application method (hand or buffer).

For the truck, the most popular products/order of use seems to be:

1) DACP/#82 - depending on severity of paint defects

2) #9/#80 - step down from above

3) #3/#5/#7/#81 - final polish before sealant

4) Medallion/#20/NXT/#26

Of course there are MANY different ways to combine and use the products, I'm just trying to give you a starting point.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by SVT4ME
I have recently decided to start taking detailing more seriously and have always used Meguiar’s products. I find Meguiar’s is making it too complicated for a person to choose their brand. Your professional line #'s seem to be random and the descriptions of many products sound way too close to each other.

I cannot by just the descriptions decide which product is more abrasive than another or which shines better than another. I believe Meguiar’s needs to make some sort of a chart or scale to help potential customers pick the right product. I know there may be more info on the bottle but that doesn’t help when trying to order online.

I really doubt someone at Meguiar’s can put together a small guide on your professional series #'numbered paint detailing products and post it somewhere here on the forums? An abrasion scale would be nice for the polishes too!

Take for example. I have a 96 Mustang Cobra with new paint, I want to add a glaze or polish so I know I barely want any cutting action since the paint is new and here seems to be the most suitable products,

1. Machine Glaze
2. Show Car Glaze
3. New car Glaze

Reading their descriptions make them all sound similar.

Anyway, any help would be appreciated, I was close to going with Klasse but I’m a tad Meguiar’s Loyal still.
Hi SVT4ME,

I noticed you asked questions here and on Autopia, I’ll try to answer all of them! :D

Originally posted by SVT4ME
I have recently decided to start taking detailing more seriously and have always used Meguiar’s products. I find Meguiar’s is making it too complicated for a person to choose their brand. Your professional line #'s seem to be random and the descriptions of many products sound way too close to each other.
Unlike a lot of car wax manufactures that only make products for the consumer market, Meguiar’s roots are in manufacturing products for both the OEM and the Refinishing industries. This would be the Professional Line, or the tan bottles with the numbers on them. The part numbers are must reference part numbers, they do not indicate how aggressive a product is, or the order they should be used in. They are simply quick reference part numbers

And while at first there can be some confusion, for technicians in the industry who use the professional line on a daily basis, they get a handle on the part numbers as well as discover which product work best for their application.

I can not by just the descriptions decide which product is more abrasive than another or which shines better than another. I believe Meguiar’s needs to make some sort of a chart or scale to help potential customers pick the right product. I know there may be more info on the bottle but that doesn’t help when trying to order online.
I apologize for the confusion, to help out, Meguiar’s offers the best customer care help in the way of Meguiar’s Customer Care Hotline. All the members that make up Meguiar’s Customer Care Hotline team are extremely qualified and can help you to choose the correct products for your application whether you choose to purchase them online, or from a retail outlet.

The phone number for the Customer Care Hotline can be found on the back of any Meguiar’s bottles which makes it convenient to call us if you have a question.

1-800-347-5700

Besides our Customer Care Hotline, we have just started an online discussion forum which you have discovered. This provides people multiple ways to get the information they need to better choose the product they need.

Welcome to Meguiar’s Online Discussion Forums! Thank your for joining!


I really doubt someone at Meguiar’s can put together a small guide on your professional series # numbered paint detailing products and post it somewhere here on the forums?
I’m working on that one.

An abrasion scale would be nice for the polishes too!

I started working on what I called, The definitive list of Meguiar’s Compounds, Paint Cleaners, and Cleaner/Polishes, but stopped working on it because first, I have many other responsibilities that come first, and second, it became difficult to organize because there are so many variables that affect how aggressive a product is. For example: Your application material, wool pad, foam pad, terry cloth towel, and your application method, hand, rotary buffer, dual-action polisher, orbital buffer.

Other factors that affect results are paint type and paint hardness. So it’s not as simple as making a list of Meguiar’s products and putting them in a specific order. If it were that simple, it would be finished. That said, I will revisit the The definitive list of Meguiar’s Compounds, Paint Cleaners, and Cleaner/Polishes, and see what I can do.


Take for example. I have a 96 Mustang Cobra with new paint, I want to add a glaze or polish so I know I barely want any cutting action since the paint is new and here seems to be the most suitable products,

1. Machine Glaze
2. Show Car Glaze
3. New car Glaze

Reading their descriptions make them all sound similar.

Anyway, any help would be appreciated, I was close to going with Klasse but I’m a tad Meguiar’s Loyal still.
Again, I apologize for the confusion when reading the labels on the above products. Let me try to help.

Since you say your 1996 Mustang Cobra has new paint, can I assume it has a basecoat/clear coat paint system?

If so, the best and easiest pure polish to use for a new basecoat/clearcoat finish would be either the Step-2 Polish in the Deep Crystal line, or the #81 Hand Polish in the Professional line.

Both of these pure polishes are non-abrasive and formulated to work specifically with clear coat finishes. The three you listed above are polishes formulated for use on single stage finishes. You can still use them on clear coat finishes, but removal may be more difficult than the removal of Step-2 Polish and the #81 Hand Polish.

Here’s a link to a thread on ShowCarGarage on using #81 Hand Polish before applying a paint protectant,

http://www.showcargarage.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=690

I hope this helps, please feel free to ask more questions and I’ll do my best to answer them till you’re satisfied. I will also try to answer your question on Autopia sometime today.

http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=32963

Kind regards,

Mike Phillips

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by mopar
if your paint is in like new condition new car glaze should do the trick

New Car Glaze is a good polish, but Deep Crystal Step-2 or #81 Hand Polish will probably give better results for this application.

Mike :D

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by mopar
also (you probly already know)you are spose to let your paint cure for about 3 to 6 months i think also try the car car rx i found it very helful there is a link right on the meguiars home page at the bottom right

Always follow the paint manufactures recommendations. Your painter should be able to give you this information.

Until the paint is cured, you can safely apply many of the polishes in Meguiar's Professional line.

Mike

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by SVT4ME
Yes, I will let it cure till next winter but in the meantime I would like to treat my 2002 Dakota Quad Cab. I figure Ill practice on my $28000 truck before I try it on my $12000 car :D

The usual curing period is 30/60/90 days. After that, you should be able to apply a paint protectant. You should first check with your painter to make sure.

Mike

[SVT4ME]

Mike, thanks for the info! Stupid question but can I apply the hand polish with my Porter Cable!? Im so excited to use my new tool! :D also I am starting to get a good feel for what product I need to use as far as polish but I am having trouble deciding on the topper. I am trying to choose from

#20
#26
NXT

#20 and NXT seem like they are VERY simular and I know that #26 is a Carnuba. Can you tell the pros and cons of those compard to eachother? Im not sure if it matters but its for a white car. Im looking forward you your guide cause lets face it, although it says professional on the bottle...we all like to try somehing mor interesting than the 3 step process!

Thanks again.

[gb387]

You know this post has helped me a great deal as well I have a better idea what differences in the poilshes are.

I keep hearing about the hand polish and its the thing to use but I also have the same question can the hand polish be applied with a Porter Cable? I am looking for a replacement to my Deep Crystal polish and the hand polish seems to be the ticket.

Mike Phillips... I saw #9 mentioned, is the #9 safe for clear coats? I have some swirls and fine scratches I would like to eliminate or minimize would this help, I would apply it with a PC?

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by SVT4ME
Mike, thanks for the info! Stupid question but can I apply the hand polish with my Porter Cable!? Im so excited to use my new tool! :D Yes. While it the label says it’s for hand application, I have tried it with the PC and it works just fine.

Also I am starting to get a good feel for what product I need to use as far as polish but I am having trouble deciding on the topper. I am trying to choose from

#20
#26
NXT

#20 and NXT seem like they are VERY similarCompletely different formula’s. Right from the Vice President of R&D

And I know that #26 is a Carnauba.
#26 is a Blended wax. If you read the label on #26 carefully, it says, Premium yellow Carnauba wax blended with silicones, polymers and resins. So while "Yes", it does contain Carnauba, it is only one component of a complex blend of other ingredients. Just for the record, Meguiar’s doesn’t offer any waxes that rely solely on Carnauba.

Can you tell the pros and cons of those compared to each other? That might take while… But here’s the short version,

#20 Polymer Sealant is a highly water and detergent resistant polymer paint protectant with a very light amount of chemical cleaners. Because it has a little cleaning action, it cannot be categorized as a pure protectant. The chemical cleaners help to clean the surface from any light oxidation, road grime, surface staining, etc. so that the polymers can better bond to the paint. #20 creates a very slick surface, with high gloss and high shine.

#26 Hi Tech Yellow Wax is a pure wax in the sense that it contains no ingredients with the intended purpose of cleaning the surface. For this reason it is only intended to be used on new cars, new paint, (that has past the curing time period), or older finishes that have been previously cleaned and polished. #26 offers excellent gloss and clarity and will darken medium to dark colors for deep dark reflections.

NXT Tech Wax is Meguiar’s newest wax, or paint protectant. NXT is created using all brand new technology. It is NOT a reworked version of any Meguiar’s product no matter what anyone else may claim. NXT Tech Wax offers excellent gloss and high shine, often leaving your paint looking wet if you have done the correct prep work. It also has the ability to eliminate very fine scratches as swirls. My best results come from both applying the NXT Tech wax using the W-8006 yellow foam polishing pad on the PC on about the 4.0 to 4.5 setting and then removing it using Meguiar’s Ultimate Bonnet, a microfiber polishing bonnet designed to be used over the foam pad on a PC.

All of the above waxes work excellent at creating a high gloss, high shine finish, each offers it’s own unique look which will vary from user to user. That is, because everyone is different, and every finish is different, some people will prefer one wax over the other based on personal preference and how their cars looks after the final wipe-off.

I’m not sure if it matters but its for a white car. I’m looking forward you your guide cause lets face it, although it says professional on the bottle...we all like to try something more interesting than the 3 step process!

Thanks again.

As far as the wax selection goes… I would opt for the NXT Tech Wax first.

Hope this helps… :cool:

Mike

[SVT4ME]

I found this abrasive scale on autopia. Its also great info. The higher the number, the higher the abrasive.

#85 Diamond Cut = 10
#84 Compound Power Cleaner = 9
#4 Heavy-cut Cleaner = 8
#1 Medium-cut Cleaner = 7
#83 DACP = 6
#2 Fine-cut Cleaner = 5
#80 Speed Glaze = 4
#82 Swirl Free Polish = 3
#9 Swirl Remover 2.0 = 3
#3 Machine Glaze = 1


We all know the type of pad you use will make it even more abrasive or less!

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by SVT4ME
I found this abrasive scale on autopia. Its also great info. The higher the number, the higher the abrasive.

#85 Diamond Cut = 10
#84 Compound Power Cleaner = 9
#4 Heavy-cut Cleaner = 8
#1 Medium-cut Cleaner = 7
#83 DACP = 6
#2 Fine-cut Cleaner = 5
#80 Speed Glaze = 4
#82 Swirl Free Polish = 3
#9 Swirl Remover 2.0 = 3
#3 Machine Glaze = 1

We all know the type of pad you use will make it even more abrasive or less! Not everybody knows this. When I post about this type of thing I always get e-mails questioning me futher on application material.


Originally posted by SVT4ME
The higher the number, the higher the abrasive.
That's wrong. Look at #3 Machine Glaze, the part number for this product is greater than both #1 Medium Cut Cleaner and #2 Fine Cut Cleaner, but both of these paint cleaners, (#1 and #2), are more aggressive than number #3 Machine Glaze.

The part numbers are just reference numbers. Please don't associate them with how aggressive the product is.

If you look back at what I wrote before, I did say

I started working on what I called, The definitive list of Meguiar’s Compounds, Paint Cleaners, and Cleaner/Polishes, but stopped working on it because first, I have many other responsibilities that come first, and second, it became difficult to organize because there are so many variables that affect how aggressive a product is. For example: Your application material, wool pad, foam pad, terry cloth towel, and your application method, hand, rotary buffer, dual-action polisher, orbital buffer.

Other factors that affect results are paint type and paint hardness. So it’s not as simple as making a list of Meguiar’s products and putting them in a specific order. If it were that simple, it would be finished. That said, I will revisit the The definitive list of Meguiar’s Compounds, Paint Cleaners, and Cleaner/Polishes, and see what I can do.

So be careful who's information you put your trust into.

Mike

[SVT4ME]

Mike, I was reffering not to the part number but the number after the = sign

These are simply the abrasive levels according to what Meguiars puts on the bottles.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by SVT4ME
Mike, I was reffering not to the part number but the number after the = sign

These are simply the abrasive levels according to what Meguiars puts on the bottles.

Whoops... my mistake. :eek: :eek: :eek:

Sorry about that. For years and years, people confuse the part number with the aggressiveness of the product. Good catch. That said, then application material and method would be factors to consider as well as paint hardness.

Mike

[Don]

Originally posted by SVT4ME
Mike, I was reffering not to the part number but the number after the = sign

These are simply the abrasive levels according to what Meguiars puts on the bottles.

I think he'll figure that out shortly...poor Mikey didn't even get to rest on his birthday and I think he's suffering from a "film build" of wax on the brain at the moment (AKA Brain Fart) :p

[txz28]

Originally posted by Mike Phillips
New Car Glaze is a good polish, but Deep Crystal Step-2 or #81 Hand Polish will probably give better results for this application.

Mike :D

I thought that glazes were not really polishes. I thought glazes were more fillers than abrasives. What is the differnce in Meguiar's parlance?

[breastroker]

Mike,
I was the one who posted those numbers at autopia, I was hoping you with your knowledge would sorts these out in order of aggressiveness. Looking at the Pro Catalog there is no way we could figure out the true abrassiveness of these products without your help.

I used the numbers on the bottles from the latest Professional Product Guide. By the way, this catalog and the latest Brilliant Sollutions No 316 are great catalogs.

Just for home use most of us would like some recommendations beyond what is in the catalogs. Like

1) #83 DACP/#82 - depending on severity of paint defects

2) #9/#80 - step down from above

3) #3/#5/#7/#81 - final polish before sealant

4) Medallion/#20/NXT/#26

Many of us just go the the local car store and look for Meguiars products. With one year old Mercedes metallic paint I had swirls, unfortunately the #7 I bought did not completely remove them. I bought some #83 from Jeff at Meguiars, but still think I should use some #80 after the 83 next time. They will have to pry the NXT wax from my cold dead hands, it is great.

Meguirs should insist dealers like Kragen and Autozone include Quick clay, and at least some real polish before the NXT wax. Autozone did not even have microfiber towels:mad:

[Mike Phillips]

Hi breastroker

(Tell me you used to be a swimmer?)

I will work on an abrasive scale for Meguiar's products. I'm glad you like the NXT Tech Wax, I do also and haven't tried anyting I like better in Meguiar's line, or anyone elses line for that matter.

The new clay is pretty good in the Meguiar's Quik Clay System. I used it for the Bronco II before and after and it worked great.

It's a been a busy day with my son's birthday and it's Valentines day, evening now. So I must pay some attention to my Valentine. I will get back to you on the questions you list.

Mike :D

[breastroker]

Still am a swimmer, masters swimming is from 18 to 103 (oldest).
My grandsons birthday, one year old.

Hope your wife and your family had a great Valentines day. As much time as you spend with detailing, you need to spend time with them first.

Take your time, I am sure many people want to know the whole scoop on the Meguiars line of compounds, polishes etc.

Once they get that retail store at Irvine headquarters open we can get all the correct stuff.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by breastroker
Still am a swimmer, masters swimming is from 18 to 103 (oldest).
I was in Masters for years after college. Actualy qualified for 5 events in the 1992 Paralympics.

100 Meter I.M.
100 Meter Breastroke
100 Meter Freestyle
200 Meter Freestyle
400 Meter Freestyle

Distance swimming is my favorite. Now a days I can't find a pool to work out in or I'd be there every morning.

My grandsons birthday, one year old.Happy birthday to him, and congratulations you! :D

Hope your wife and your family had a great Valentines day. As much time as you spend with detailing, you need to spend time with them first.With over 100 helium balloons and a Hot Wheels theme birthday party... how could you not have fun?

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2600_housefullofballoons.jpg

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2600_RandonHotWheels.jpg

Take your time, I am sure many people want to know the whole scoop on the Meguiars line of compounds, polishes etc.I am limited to what I can share on the Internet, or anywhere by R&D, (and common sense), but I will see what I can do.

Once they get that retail store at Irvine headquarters open we can get all the correct stuff.

That will be nice. Hopefully it will be sooner versus later, but I know they have to put a door in a wall or something like that...

Mike

[breastroker]

Mike,
I am the chairman of the local 3000 member masters group. Look up www.spma.net. Irvive has a great coach in Michael Collins. He coaches at Irvine Novaquatics, is a triathlete coach and a Paralympics coach. His team won lots of events at the international Paralympics.
There are lots of pools in Orange county. I know if you start swimming again your stamina at work is much better, and you can burn off frustration.

Mike's info is on this web page http://www.spma.net/spmaclubs.htm

Way cool birthday party, that black bike needs some red flames and a layer of NXT wax:p

[breastroker]

I found a Pep Boys with some more Meguiars polishes. So I bought some #9 and will try that first next time before going to the #83. I will try half the hood, if the #9 gets the swirls out I will go to #7 and NXT wax. It would seem the least strongest polish would be best for newer paint?



Looking at the list, it looks like it is not right:
Before:
1) #83 DACP/#82 - depending on severity of paint defects

2) #9/#80 - step down from above

3) #3/#5/#7/#81 - final polish before sealant

4) Medallion/#20/NXT/#26


Revised

1) #83 DACP- The book says will remove blemishes the Swirl Free Polish will not. (6 abrasive)

2) #80 - step down from above (4 abrasive)
or #82 Swirl Free Polish (3 abrasive)
or #9 Swirl Remover 2.0 (3 abrasive)

3) #3/#5/#7/#81 - final polish before sealant

4) NXT Tech Wax - the only way to go

[gb387]

If you go with that let us know how it turns out. Post some pics if you can

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by breastroker
I found a Pep Boys with some more Meguiar’s polishes. So I bought some #9 and will try that first next time before going to the #83. I will try half the hood, if the #9 gets the swirls out I will go to #7 and NXT wax. It would seem the least strongest polish would be best for newer paint?
Correct. Just to add to this a little, after you use up the bottle of #7, try to find a bottle of #81 Hand Polish. You might find like others that the #81 Hand Polish gives you the same results while being less difficult to remove.

Looking at the list, it looks like it is not right:
Before:
1) #83 DACP/#82 - depending on severity of paint defects

2) #9/#80 - step down from above

3) #3/#5/#7/#81 - final polish before sealant

4) Medallion/#20/NXT/#26

I don't know about 2) #9/#80 - step down from above

They are both cleaner/polishes, but use different types of diminishing abrasives. I don't think I would use them in that order. Also, if I used one, I probably wouldn't use the other. #80 Speed Glaze is a cleaner/polish whereupon the diminishing abrasive cuts quickly, then breaks down leaving behind only rich polishing oils. As far as I know, the diminishing abrasives in #9 don't break down as quickly and must be buffed longer.

Revised

1) #83 DACP- The book says will remove blemishes the Swirl Free Polish will not. (6 abrasive)

2) #80 - step down from above (4 abrasive)
or #82 Swirl Free Polish (3 abrasive)
or #9 Swirl Remover 2.0 (3 abrasive)

#82 Swirl Free Polish offers just a little more aggressiveness than the #9 Swirl Remover 2.0 (From a formula perspective), the average use might not notice a difference, but the products are definite different.

3) #3/#5/#7/#81 - final polish before sealant
These are all what Meguiar's calls pure polishes in that they contain no ingredients with the intended purpose to abrade paint, and are in fact very rich in Meguiar’s trade secret polishing oils.

#3 Machine Glaze - Excellent for single stage lacquers and enamels, gel-coats, Plexiglas plastic, and Imron.

#5 New Car Glaze - This is a drier version of number #7 formulated for use in high humidity areas for faster, and easier wipe-off. This product turns very white after drying and while removing, so you want to be careful around pebble-textured black plastic trim. It does produces a very high gloss finish.

#7 Show Car Glaze - This product was originally called Sealer & Reseal Glaze but the name was changed in the early to mid-90's to reflect what the product is most commonly used for. This is Meguiar's richest in trade secret polishing oils and leaves a very wet-looking, high gloss finish. Best to apply a thin coat and then remove with your softest, 100% cotton terry cloth towel, or a premium microfiber polishing cloth. #7 Show Car Glaze first appeared in either the late 1920's or the early 1930's, it was originally formulated for use on single stage nitrocellulose lacquers, enamels, varnishes and possibly even shellac finishes. These were the early types of coatings used in the auto manufacturing industries back then. It still works great today on single stage finishes of all types, but can sometimes be a little difficult to remove from a clear coat.

#81 Hand Polish - This product is similar to #7 Show Car Glaze, except that it chemically formulated to work better on modern clear coats.

4) NXT Tech Wax - the only way to go

I agree. This new wax produces awesome results, especially if you have properly prepared the finish before hand.

Mike

[corics]

i am just wondering how different the medallion paint protection is compared to NXT tech wax. i have been using the medallion paint protection for the past 3 months or so and i would say that it (medallion) gives better shine and protection against road grims as compared to polymer sealant (#20). if i were to shift from medallion paint protection to NXT tech wax, what preparatory steps should i first make to ensure that i would be able to get the best out of nxt tech wax?

following are the meguiar products that i have on hand: diamond cut 2.0, swirl remover, show car glaze, medallion paint cleaner, medallion paint protection, #66, and final detail. i also have the gold class shampoo and conditioner for my regular washing.

from the products that i have on hand, what would be the recommended products to use and for what step?

my nxt tech wax will be arriving sometime first week of march and i really am planning to have it applied on my car (colored dark emerald green of honda).

thanks!;)

[breastroker]

Photo of the car with just one coat of NXT tech wax. This is after one week in Kalifornia sun, dirt etc. It actually looks deeper today in shadows, can see reflections real well today. All panels of car has deep shine.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2coupenxtwax.jpg

Note new spelling of state, Arnold for President.

[Mike Phillips]

Hi breastroker,

I took the liberty of uploading your photo to the Gallery, that way I could imbed it into the thread.

(Hope you don't mind)

Your results look excellent. Nice color for that fine automobile. Try a second coat when you get a chance.

Mike

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by corics
What preparatory steps should i first make to ensure that i would be able to get the best out of nxt tech wax?

following are the meguiar products that i have on hand: diamond cut 2.0, swirl remover, show car glaze, medallion paint cleaner, medallion paint protection, #66, and final detail. i also have the gold class shampoo and conditioner for my regular washing.

From your selection, I would opt for going over the car clay first if needed, then with the Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner. After that I would apply two thin coats of the NXT Tech Wax.

If possible, apply the second coat after 24 hours. This means you can't drive the car until the after removing the second coating or risk dirt and dust accumulation on the finish before application of the second coat.

I know for a lot of people, this isn't possible, that's why I wrote, if possible.

Then... post a picture of your results!

[corics]

thanks for the advise mike!

but car clay would you recommend? the meguiar's C2000 clay is a rare commodity here in our place (i am from manila philippines)...

:confused:

[Mike Phillips]

Well I would like to recommend Meguiar's, but any good quality clay will work. The most important thing is to remove the bonded contaminants so that you can insure a high gloss finish.

Mike

[breastroker]

Mike,
My Orion Blue Coupe has 14 month old paint, I bought it new 10 months ago at a $7,000 discount. That allowed me to do some customizing of the interior.

My paint looks great, deep shine from all angles, except when I get up close under bright sunlight. That is when I see the cobwebs from too many trips to the local car wash/hand ? wax.
Never again!!!!

Anyways I only used clay, as most have found Meguiars Clay is impossible to find. So every time I wax my cars I buy any old clay available. The Mothers clay kit is WAY overpriced, but is usually the only clay on the auto stores shelves. And half the time the clay is missing from the box, no kidding they think their employees take the clay.

Mr. Meguiar, are you listening? Make all auto stores carry the clay and lube kit, at $10 it is $7 less than Mothers. Guess which one people will buy!

Anyways I could only find some #7 after the clinic, so I washed the car first, then clayed the car using up the entire bottle from Clay Magic. I usually throw the clay away after, not worth scratches.

Then I used the #7 with the G100 DA buffer, starting at slow speeds and working up to 5 speed where the buffer is more ballanced. I used old microfiber towels to wipe off the #7, it is the only polish I have used with no white showing. The car looked great with just the #7, but the spider webs were still there, just not as bad. I loved putting on the NXT Tech wax, even easier taking it off.

But in bright sunlight I can see the cobwebs, drives me nuts. My thought is to use the #9 Swirl Remover next time, since I have a bottle of it. I figure doing half the hood to see if the #9 gets the swirls out.

If that works, great. If it don't, I have a bottle of #83 which I know will work after seeing it work magic at the clinic. Then after the #83 I would follow up with the #9 and then NXT wax. Next time 2 coats!!!!

Can the NXT coats be put on after say 2 hours? I hate driving the Lincoln Mark VIII now, the wife keeps it a mess, like her purse.