How is my wetsanding? with pictures !!

[duy_k2000]

This is my first time ever wetsanding and using g100. Any comment is appreciated.

Ok, this finish has a thick film sitting on top of the CC and couldn't be removed with g100. So I decided to wetsand it to show the CC.
I was using:
-1500 grit
-2000 grit
-g100 with red pad with M83 ( I try yellow pad but it took too long)

Before the sanding begin:

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/546/Before_sanding.jpg

During the sanding:
I was trying to do a X pattern. <<--(thanks for the advice dad)

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/546/medium/During_sanding.jpg

After wiping off the debris and water:
I notice the milky water. <-- Is this the indication of the CC being stripped down? I thought so I lighten up the pressure.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/546/medium/During_wipeoff.jpg

And the final result: (close up shot)

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/546/medium/After_closeup.jpg

Another picture (kinda far away):

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/546/medium/After_faraway.jpg

How am i doing? Please comment....Thanks

[gorin002]

is this is dark pictuer.didi you work at night ?

[Totoland Mach]

It looks like you're doing it correctly so far. I don't use the 1500 or 2000, but use 3000 with a Snap-On air orbital sander. The white you see is definitely clear coat! Do you have a paint guage? That would give you a measure of clear coat removal.

Here's a pic of the clear removal in wetsanding
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/Totoland/Start-To-Finish%20Detail/2_BMWStartHoodSanding.jpg

I remove surface scratches + light rock chips on BMW's that are for resale
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/Totoland/Start-To-Finish%20Detail/3_BMWStart_Hood_afterSanding.jpg

BMW Hood after sanding
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/Totoland/Start-To-Finish%20Detail/4_BMWHood_Sanded.jpg

Compounding in Process
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/Totoland/Start-To-Finish%20Detail/7_BMWOneHalfHood_Compounded.jpg

Compounded + Meg's Glaze and ready for #26
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/Totoland/Start-To-Finish%20Detail/11_BMWHoodGlaze_ReflectionOverall.jpg

Totoland Mach

[gorin002]

looks nice

[duy_k2000]

is this is dark pictuer.didi you work at night ?

Yes, I did work at night.

[duy_k2000]

Hi Totaland and Mach,

First, thanks for your comments. Compared snap-on to handsanding, which one is easier to use? I was thinking since I am very new at this. Using a machine isn't right for me.

The sandmarks on the BMW looks very fine. Is that because of the even pressure from the machine? I have a hard time applying even pressure to the whole finish. Any tip?

By the way, what tool(s) did you use to remove sandmarks?

[Totoland Mach]

Hi Totaland and Mach,

First, thanks for your comments. Compared snap-on to handsanding, which one is easier to use? I was thinking since I am very new at this. Using a machine isn't right for me.

The sandmarks on the BMW looks very fine. Is that because of the even pressure from the machine? I have a hard time applying even pressure to the whole finish. Any tip?

By the way, what tool(s) did you use to remove sandmarks?

The Snap-On orbital air sander is very easy to use and keeps the 3000 grit pad flat to the surface of the paint. I sometimes use a hand pad for areas the sander won't fit such as compound curves in the body. You could also use a rubber sanding block (I think Meguiar's has them) which would also keep your grit material flat to the paint surface.

For removal, I use a DeWalt rotary + light compound at 1200 rpm, then Meguiar's glaze at 1400 rpm. My final product is #26 because it is the best in a production environment.

Toto

[pcfxer]

You can use a Meguiar's sanding block when you can, but if you are unable to reach a certain area place the sanding paper on your palm and through your thumb.

If your fingers are covering any sand paper than you aren't applying even pressure, it's impossible. At least, try to hold it that the least area of paper is covered by your fingers. The part you don't want to touch the sand paper is your finger tips.

Also, get a good and comfortable position. Grab a chair if you want. This will allow you to do better "work" in a more relaxed fashion allowing you to do more consistent work.

[duy_k2000]

These are very good advices. Thanks. Currently, I am using a solf sanding block from Meg. It works pretty well. But sometimes, the sanding paper is stuck on the paint and very hard to move. Is that because I dont have enough water or I am using too much pressure?

[pcfxer]

Actually, it can come from a few things but the main two that I can think of are. You could just have a lot of dirty water where the removed clear is gumming up the surface of the paint and the sandpaper. Remember to clean the area and check your progress often. You can even unwrap the sandpaper from the block and use the block as a squeagee (Sp?) to move the dirty water aside.

Then again, you might just not have enough water and obviously we know the case-friction!

From the pictures it looks like you should keep up what you're doing! It's hard to put sand paper to a car after all you've been told about dust being a probable abrassive and RUINING your finish. It takes BALLS!

[duy_k2000]

Actually, it can come from a few things but the main two that I can think of are. You could just have a lot of dirty water where the removed clear is gumming up the surface of the paint and the sandpaper. Remember to clean the area and check your progress often. You can even unwrap the sandpaper from the block and use the block as a squeagee (Sp?) to move the dirty water aside.

Then again, you might just not have enough water and obviously we know the case-friction!

From the pictures it looks like you should keep up what you're doing! It's hard to put sand paper to a car after all you've been told about dust being a probable abrassive and RUINING your finish. It takes BALLS!

Yo!
Thanks for the tip. I need to stop and check my progress more often. Any more tip on when to stop sanding ? TIA.

[pcfxer]

Other than suggesting to purchase of a paint thickness gauge, I'm pretty much out of suggestions.

Keep those pictures coming!

[duy_k2000]

Other than suggesting to purchase of a paint thickness gauge, I'm pretty much out of suggestions.

Keep those pictures coming!

Here is another picture of the same fender. I LOVE WETSANDING :D:db:


http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/546/medium/After_sanding_fullsun.jpg

[pcfxer]

WOW!:bigups

I guess #84/W7006/G100 is able to remove the sanding marks from the 3000 grit stuff eh?

[Mike Phillips]

WOW!:bigups

I guess #84/W7006/G100 is able to remove the sanding marks from the 3000 grit stuff eh?

For anyone thinking of trying this, make sure you can do this successfully to a very small area first before tackling an entire panel.

Also note, this is not a Meguiar's recommended procedure.

[gorin002]

wowww

[pcfxer]

For anyone thinking of trying this, make sure you can do this successfully to a very small area first before tackling an entire panel.

Also note, this is not a Meguiar's recommended procedure.

I was always told that if I wetsanded, I'd need the RB for obvious reasons. This could depend on paint though and it, really is the least agressive combination because of the oscillation of the head.

I'd still prefer to use the RB in this case, if for the reason of "that's how I was told to do it."

[duy_k2000]

For anyone thinking of trying this, make sure you can do this successfully to a very small area first before tackling an entire panel.

Also note, this is not a Meguiar's recommended procedure.

The key to success is to find a procedure that works for you. It took me about 30 mins trying out different methods, pads and products on a small test spot to finally come up with a winning combination. MEG products and G100 are so versatile. Any one can do it.