How To: PlastX Headlight Restoration (Step by w/ Pics)

[97 Supra]

How To: Restore your oxidized, faded, discolored, or otherwise lightly scratched (or damaged by brake kleen) headlight lenses.

By: Brett Robertson (97 Supra)

You will need:

1.) Bottle of Meguiar's PlastX

2.) Sandpaper grit depends on the severity of your lens damage. Which ever grit you choose to start with, you must also purchase 1 sheet of the higher number grit paper - up to what ever grit you are comfortable with to complete the restoration process. (I stopped at 2500.)

Example: If you start with 1000, you must also buy 1500 2000 and 2500.

2a.) 1 sheet of 1000 grit (to start with when working on severely oxidized and yellow lenses.)

2b.) 1 sheet of 1500 grit (to start on not so yellow, but very cloudy / faded and or lightly swirled/scratched lenses.)

2c.) 1 sheet of 2000 grit (starting with mostly clear, or barely cloudy lenses)

2d.) 1 sheet of 25000 grit to finish off with (or continue on to 3000 if it makes you happy.)

3.) Any # pack of microfiber towels.

4.) 1 flannel cloth - any size, just make sure it's easy to fold up and work on your headlight with.

5.) 1 roll of your favorite masking tape, I chose 3M blue 1" masking tape.

6.) 1 bucket your size and color choice don't matter so much as long as the container is large enough to soak your sheets of sand paper in, it will work.

The Process:

1.) Gather your supplies.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b30/95_5speed/DSC_0041.jpg

2.) Mask off the light you choose to work with first using the masking tape. Be generous, you do not want to accidentally slip and sand your precious paint job.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b30/95_5speed/DSC_0042.jpg

3.) Cut your different grit papers (1000, 1500, 2000, 2500) into workable sizes. Allow them all to soak in your bucket for 8-10 minutes to make sure they are saturated.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b30/95_5speed/DSC_0044.jpg

4.) Remove your first lowest grit paper from the water (I started with 2000) and fold it in half. Choose 1 direction to sand in to start with, vertically or horizontally. (I chose vertical to start.) do NOT sand in a circle. Sand the lens until it is uniform, and looks evenly worked.

4a.) Be sure to keep applying water to the working area via spray bottle, cup, or other method to ensure adequate water is being supplied to the paper which working with it.

4b.) Be sure to dip your sanding hand, along with the sand paper you are working with into the bucket often as to flush the debris off of you and the paper.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b30/95_5speed/DSC_0048.jpg

5.) Using 1 of your many microfiber cloths, dry the lens off to check for consistency in your work. Feel free to do this as many times as necessary to ensure you are getting a uniform surface.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b30/95_5speed/DSC_0050.jpg

6.) Once you have dried the lens, and checked for a uniform surface, go ahead and change the water in your bucket. Place your other papers back in the clean water, and select the next grit paper. (I used 2500 now.)

6a.) Fold the new paper in half, and soak the lens before applying the higher grit wet sand paper to the lens.

6.b) Sand in the opposite direction as you did previously. (every time you switch grit paper.) If you started out sanding vertically as I did, you will now be sanding horizontally.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b30/95_5speed/DSC_0051.jpg

7.) Sand in the opposite direction with your next higher grit paper as I previously mentioned. Keep rinsing off your working hand, and working paper. As well, be sure to keep wetting the lens as you are working as I previously mentioned.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b30/95_5speed/DSC_0052.jpg

8.) Once you have sanded in the opposite direction with your higher grit paper, make sure the surface is evenly worked by drying the lens off with a new microfiber cloth. If necessary re-sand until the surface is evenly sanded.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b30/95_5speed/DSC_0053.jpg

9.) At this point the lens is going to look cloudy from sanding, but not as cloudy as the previous grit left the lens. (see previous photo compared to this one.)

9a.) Repeat the previous steps with higher grit sandpaper if you choose to for a finer finish before the following steps. (I did not, I finished with 2500.)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b30/95_5speed/DSC_0056.jpg

10.) Heres where that oddball flannel cloth I told you to get comes in. Get out your Meguiar's PlastX and put a dime size on the flannel cloth. Apply firm pressure to the cloth against the the lens and in a circular motion work small areas at a time, maintaining firm pressure. Do not press so hard you crack or damage your lens, use good judgment, the more firm you press the better the polish works. Once you have worked one area, allow the PlastX to dry there, and work another area - repeat until you have worked the entire lens surface.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b30/95_5speed/DSC_0057.jpg

11.) Once you have finished working in your PlastX, use another one of your fresh microfiber cloths and remove the plastX from the lens.

11a.) To obtain the best possible clarity, you will need to repeat steps 10 and 11 until you have the the clarity you desire. This may get tedious, but the results are well worth it.

12.) Once the desired clarity has been reached, remove your masking tape.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b30/95_5speed/DSC_0059.jpg

13.) Once the tape has been removed, go ahead and place a generous amount of PlastX on your hand and work it in real good. Once the lens is completely covered, stop and allow the product to dry on the lens. This may take a few minutes depending on the temperature and humidity around you. (You may also work the PlastX around with a fresh microfiber cloth if you fear you might be allergic to any chemicals.)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b30/95_5speed/DSC_0062.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b30/95_5speed/DSC_0063.jpg

14.) Man we love some microfiber. With a fresh microfiber cloth, polish the lens clean using a fresh side of the cloth for your final swipe.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b30/95_5speed/DSC_0065.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b30/95_5speed/DSC_0067.jpg

15.) Make sure you have cleaned off any excess product, or sanding materials from the lens and stand back to take a look at the results.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b30/95_5speed/DSC_0068.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b30/95_5speed/DSC_0069.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b30/95_5speed/DSC_0070.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b30/95_5speed/DSC_0072.jpg

15a.) Repeat this process for the other headlight lens.

16.) If you want to seal the headlights, choose the Meguiar's product of your choice and apply it at this time. I will be using some NXT liquid on my light to keep the newly refinished surface sealed and better protected.

Disclaimer:

This "how to" was my own personal experience. I am sharing it with you because I was very satisfied with the results. I can not guarantee your results will be the same, as your workman ship may differ from my own. As well, every lens damage is NOT identical. Some may turn out for better or worse. You just watched me do this to my 1997 Toyota Supra (It's 1 of 55.) New headlights would have cost me about $800.00. I spent about $15.00 on the supplies to end up with these results following the process I described above. Take that for what it's worth, and always detail using your best judgment.

Thanks for looking, I can't wait to go for a night drive! Often the results of this (depending on the condition of your lenses prior to the process) light output and night visibility can be improved as much as 50%.

- Brett Robertson

[mudvayne9790]

Great writeup very well written with clear instructions. By the way great job and results. I was just wondering, isnt it pointless to let the plastx dry? Great job

[Nappers]

Good show.

I love PlastX.

Glad someone else smears it around with their hand. I use it on my cell phone or watch and small items as such and use my finger to work it in.

You don't need to let PlastX dry, Meguiars waxes are the only products that need to dry. When I did my headlights and taillights, I threw a coat of NXT on them.

Look good as new.

Aaron

[Hemin8r]

Nice write up & pics. Great job on the headlights as well.

[AeroCleanse]

Wonder how it stacks up against the Mirror Glaze plastic lineup.

[roushstage2]

Some more information for this thread (which was very well done, kudos Brett! The lights look better than new!)

FAQ: What's the difference between Meguiar's Clear Plastic Products (http://forumarchive.meguiars.com/forums/thread/32764.aspx)

Meguiar's Clear Plastic Products
Here is the complete collection of products Meguiar's offers for working with clear plastics both by hand and machine.


Mirror Glaze Clear Plastic Polish (http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/product_detail.cfm?parentURL=index_pro.cfm&sku=M-10)

http://www.meguiars.com/estore/images/product_m10.gif

The finishing touch for maximum clarity and brilliance. Meguiar’s Plastic Polish provides the second step in our two-step restoration process for clear plastics. One easy application protects surfaces previously cleaned with our M-1708 Plastic Cleaner. You will reveal the materials natural brilliance, while leaving behind an anti-static coating that helps repel damaging dust and dirt.




Mirror Glaze Clear Plastic Cleaner (http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/product_detail.cfm?parentURL=index_pro.cfm&sku=M-17)

http://www.meguiars.com/estore/images/product_m17.gif

Safely removes hairline scratches, dirt and grime. Clear plastic that has lost its clarity due to significant contamination and fine scratches should be treated using our two-step process. Meguiar’s non-abrasive, alcohol-free Plastic Cleaner aggressively cleans and removes scratches without harming the surface. Follow up with our M-1008 Plastic Polish for a perfect finish.




Mirror Glaze Clear Plastic Detailer (http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/product_detail.cfm?parentURL=index_pro.cfm&sku=M-18)

http://www.meguiars.com/estore/images/product_m18.gif

A single-step solution that keeps clear plastic surfaces pristine. Regain the original crystalline clarity of plastic in need of restoration, using this convenient all-in-one product specially formulated by Meguiar’s. Simply spray it on and wipe it dry. You will safely remove surface contamination and achieve dramatic results on everything from window panels and instrument lenses to eyeglasses, CD's and picture frames.




PlastX (http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/product_detail.cfm?sku=G-123)

http://www.meguiars.com/estore/images/product_g123.gif

This easy to use, rich gel formula quickly restores optical clarity to both rigid and flexible plastics. Cutting-edge advancements in Meguiar's exclusive Microscopic Diminishing Abrasive Technology, (MDAT), removes light oxidation, chemical degradation, surface contamination, stains and light surface scratches with ease. In addition, because our microscopic diminishing abrasives breakdown as you use them, PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish is safe on plastic rear windows on convertible tops, aircraft windows, motorcycle fairings, face shields, headlights and taillights, instrument panels, all clear plastic boat surfaces and aquariums. Meguiar's PlastX also contains highly water-resistant polymers. These specialized hi-tech polymers provide long lasting durable protection to keep your clear plastics clear and beautiful longer. PlastX is non-toxic and does not contain any harsh solvents.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Meguiar's teaches the philosophy of using the least aggressive product to get the job done. We also teach that surfaces, in this case clear plastic, need to be maintained. Maintaining a surface is an ongoing process, not a one time procedure. Thus in order of aggressiveness...

M10 Plastic Polish - Completely non-aggressive. This is a pure polish that is formulated to restore optical clarity and maintain clear plastic surfaces. M10 Plastic Polish should be used on plastic surfaces in excellent shape to maintain them, and/or after a neglected plastic surface has been pre-cleaned using a dedicated plastic cleaner such as M17 Plastic Cleaner, or PlastX. M10 Plastic polish leaves behind an anti-static surface.


M17 Plastic Cleaner - M17 is a light cleaning polish for clear plastics, it is non-abrasive and and perfect for removing stains, light oxidation and other contaminants off the surface. It can remove very light scratches out of soft plastics when worked thoroughly but gently against the surface. After cleaning with PlastX, for maximum optical clarity and to leave an anti-static finish, apply M10 Plastic Polish.


PlastX - PlastX is a unique plastic cleaner in that it contains a special microscopic diminishing abrasive that enables it to actually remove below surface scratches by removing small particles of plastic surrounding the scratches. After cleaning with PlastX, for maximum optical clarity and to leave an anti-static finish, apply M10 Plastic Polish.

Besides your choice of product, your choice of applicator material can also effect the aggressiveness or gentleness of a product. Meguiar's Hi-Tech Foam Wax applicators are a good choice for gentle cleaning and polishing. For more aggressive cleaning and polishing, try using a material with a nap such as 100% cotton toweling, or our Even Coat Applicators made out of microfiber.

Because clear plastic surfaces tend to be scratch-sensitive, remember that not only is your choice of product and applicator material important, but just as important is the quality and type of removal material, in other words, your wipe-off clothes or towels. For clear plastic surfaces, always use a premium quality microfiber polishing cloth, or a clean, soft 100% cotton terry cloth towel. Inspect your wiping-cloth before using to insure it is clean and free from contaminants and anything that cold instill a scratch into the plastic surface.

When working on plastic surfaces for the first time, and whenever you use a product for the first time, it's always a good idea to test the product, your applicator material and your application process, (In this case your hand and your skill level), in an inconspicuous area. If you cannot make a small area look good with your product, applicator and process, you will not be able to make the entire surface look good, so test first to be an the safe side.

[roushstage2]

It would be interesting to see how they look with some Mirror Glaze Clear Plastic Polish (http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/product_detail.cfm?parentURL=index_pro.cfm&sku=M-10) added to the headlights.

[RaskyR1]

Wow! Those turned our GREAT! I read your other thread about how the dealer had damaged them before you bought the car...they look like new now.

Good Job...and nice write up. :bigups

[97 Supra]

After I wipe off the NXT from my car (I just got done doing my second coat) I will see if I can find some of that mirror glaze #10 and get some photos.

BTW: Did i post this in the wrong section? Should I have posted it in the how to section or will it get moved if deemed worthy? I wasn't sure where to post it.

[J. A. Michaels]

Hey Brett, Great write up and easy to follow step by step instructions. Your lense came out looking great. Nice work.

[Sydster]

Hey Brett, Great write up and easy to follow step by step instructions. Your lense came out looking great. Nice work.


:iagree:

[Detailer27]

They turned out great. Thanks for the writeup.

[J-Man]

nice! good job! I now have to do this to some of our headlights!

[Mike Phillips]

BTW: Did i post this in the wrong section? Should I have posted it in the how to section or will it get moved if deemed worthy? I wasn't sure where to post it.

Great write-up and even greater disclaimer.

We will move this to the How To forum since we have deemed in worthy.

We would like to add one thing for all the hundreds of thousands of people that will read this into the future and that is this,

Some headlights have coatings on them and when you sand or buff on the lens you will remove some or all of this coating. There is no way to replace this coating once you have removed it and without the coating it is possible that even if you restore clarity to the plastic underneath this coating, (the lens), the results may not last as long as you might hope or expect. The reason for this is because it could be the type of plastic they used under the coating isn't very resistant to UV rays and that was the purpose of the coating.

If your headlight lenses are so cloudy or yellowed that the light coming out of them isn't bright enough for safe driving at night then you really don't have anything to lose but to try to fix them, just keep in mind that the fix may not be permanent and you may now have to maintain the plastic more often with a product like PlastX than you would have if the coating were not removed.

Don't blame us as we don't make headlight lenses, blame the auto manufactures for this problem. This is why we personally like our old cars with our old glass headlights.

http://www.showcargarage.com/gallery/files/1/1974Datsun260Z.014.jpg

[Mike Phillips]

We would also like to add that starting out with a piece of terry cloth toweling to apply the PlastX will give the PlastX more bite for removing the sanding marks out of the plastic as the nap or little cotton loops act as a mild form of an abrasive that will be more aggressive then cotton flannel that has a flat sheen to it.

Then after you've removed the sanding marks re-apply the PlastX with the flannel or even foam or microfiber for the final polishing results.

Besides product and process, (process = machine or hand application), Application Material is always a key factor when cleaning/abrading a material, (plastic is a material), or a surface coating, (the paint on your car is a coating sprayed over a panel).

:xyxthumbs

[J-Man]

wow! Awesome product! i tried it today and awesome results! I was going to do it on the family van, but my dad stopped me and told me he wanted proof before I did anything.... and i did prove it by doing it on some signal light...
He said... "you can start with the car!" :D

[94BMW325CIS]

Whats the advantage of applying it by hand?

[dietoremain]

I apply plastX with my PC its quicker but eitehr way it works great.

[yalerd]

This was a great thread.
Love how the headlight turned out

[black240sx]

I apply plastX with my PC its quicker but eitehr way it works great.

What size and type of pad do you use, and at what speed?

[Joe's detailing]

Bravo.....Good work....:coolgleam

[radicalrev]

Good show.

I love PlastX.

Glad someone else smears it around with their hand. I use it on my cell phone or watch and small items as such and use my finger to work it in.

You don't need to let PlastX dry, Meguiars waxes are the only products that need to dry. When I did my headlights and taillights, I threw a coat of NXT on them.

Look good as new.

Aaron

so would NXT wax be safe for all plastics and glasses which also protects the headlights longer?

[AjNavo61490]

so would NXT wax be safe for all plastics and glasses which also protects the headlights longer?


pretty much any wax/sealant would reduce the risk of oxidation or other chemical weathering effects

[importsnrice]

Great write-up! Love this stuff. Just did it on my mom's Corolla and about to do it on the Supra. Thanks god my prelude has glass headlights :)

Results of my mom's:
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h289/importsnrice/Pic-0008-2.jpg

[J. A. Michaels]

Yours look great also. I bet your mom is happy.

[97 Supra]

Ahh, I see what you were doing haha.. try is on the least expensive car first! Haha, good test subject it turned out great! Now that you've done it successfully once, you can probably even tweak the methods, and improve every single time you do it!

I'm glad to see people driving safer at night :)

[superbogel]

Great write-up! Love this stuff. Just did it on my mom's Corolla and about to do it on the Supra. Thanks god my prelude has glass headlights :)

Results of my mom's:
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h289/importsnrice/Pic-0008-2.jpg

is this using only plast x or, using the grit paper also? :wavey

[dragonle87]

where can i find grit paper 2500+ cuz i could only find 600

[REVNU]

Just thought I'd mention this. IF you find that you are having to maintain the headlights a lot, a product like Rockblocker or LaminX works wonders. They are both 3M material and protect your headlights from debris and also UV. I've had it on my plastic Subaru Headlights since day one and only in the last few months has it started showing signs of wear and discoloration. I am going to try some M10 to see if I can bring the clarity back to the film, if not then try the M17. If that doesn't work I'll just peel the stuff off and put on a new set.

I maintain the LaminX I have on my car with Megs Vinyl Protectant and it's kept it from cracking and kept it looking good for 3+ years.

At about $50 or so for the headlight set it's a very small investment to help protect todays high dollar headlights. Best of all it's as easy as using Meguiar's Vinyl Protectant to maintain them!

[Mike Phillips]

where can i find grit paper 2500+ cuz i could only find 600

You need to find a PBE store, the below can be found in our How To Articles (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=33) forum...

How to locate Meguiar's Professional and Detailer products in your hometown (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1504)




Just thought I'd mention this. IF you find that you are having to maintain the headlights a lot, a product like Rockblocker or LaminX works wonders. They are both 3M material and protect your headlights from debris and also UV.

I've had it on my plastic Subaru Headlights since day one and only in the last few months has it started showing signs of wear and discoloration. I am going to try some M10 to see if I can bring the clarity back to the film, if not then try the M17. If that doesn't work I'll just peel the stuff off and put on a new set.

I maintain the LaminX I have on my car with Megs Vinyl Protectant and it's kept it from cracking and kept it looking good for 3+ years.

At about $50 or so for the headlight set it's a very small investment to help protect todays high dollar headlights. Best of all it's as easy as using Meguiar's Vinyl Protectant to maintain them!

Great tip... maybe start a dedicated thread with some links to these products along with your testimony...


:xyxthumbs

[REVNU]

Great tip... maybe start a dedicated thread with some links to these products along with your testimony...


I'll try and do that tonight when I get home. :xyxthumbs

[Mr Mustang]

great writeup, I'd never have thought to use my hand

[stang_krazy]

Very nice write-up with great pictures!:goodjob1

But I'm still wondering why apply the plastX by hand?

I'm waiting to get the new headlight kit and maybe do a write-up using my G100 & rotary on my badly yellowed and nasty looking headlight lenses on my ranger.

[GOHEMI]

What an excellent write up!!! I must admit, using even the lowest grit paper with water (e.g. 2000) looks very scary to me, and it would take me some courage, and a couple deep breaths to start!!!! However, seeing close-up photos of every step along the way is very reassuring, and helpful, even for the faint-hearted. Obviously with the right technique, it works.

Wow, those lights came out great!!!! Kudos.:kewlpics1

[jamesqjr]

turned out great :xyxthumbs what about clearing the lens?

[importsnrice]

Sorry for the late reply.

That was using 2000 grit to finish it off. You don't have to go all out crazy with grit, 2000 worked just fine. As long as you rub PlastX in real good, your in the get-go. And always make sure to wax them after or it'll fade away.

I make custom taillights for the Preludes and on every set, I wetsand and PlastX em so here are some pic's of my custom tails:

Here's a taillight I just finished with the polish (looks brand new):
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h289/importsnrice/Picture602.jpg


This is a sealed polished light compared to an unsealed unpolished light:
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h289/importsnrice/Picture603.jpg

The set I have is polished to perfection and is the cleanest taillight I've ever seen in my life :)

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h289/importsnrice/Picture602.jpg

Polished one on the right and unpolished on the left. As you can see, it brought the shine back and doesn't look all dull and faded.

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h289/importsnrice/tails/Pic-0003.jpg

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h289/importsnrice/tails/Pic-0006.jpg

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h289/importsnrice/tails/Pic-0005.jpg


Sorry for the bad pics..

[Mike Phillips]

Sorry for the late reply.


We always appreciate the follow-up. :xyxthumbs


Sorry for the bad pics..


Plenty good enough, the get the point across and that is with a little work you can restore clarity and shine to faded plastics and often times without having to resort to wet-sanding, just using PlastX by hand or machine (http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+G1900) and when working by hand put a little passion behind your application material.

[lamfactor]

here's the outcome of my DIY, & got the before and after all on one page...

I actually took lite headlamp cluster apart to black out the housing (hence the before shows silver and after pic shows black housing)....but spend the extra time and ended up dehazing the lens as well.

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa98/lamfactor/09%2003%2012%20Maguias%20Car%20Detail/HLDehaze.jpg

[carmaster22]

Awesome writeup and results.

While looking for the Meguiar's products you mentioned, I noticed Meguiar's sells a headlight restoration kit that comes with PlastX, a buffer pad, and a microfiber cloth.

Do you think that's a viable option to the steps outlined above?

[97 Supra]

Yes, as long as you have some power behind the product. Using any product by hand is only a technique I use because I like to challenge myself. If I were to do this all over again, I would skip the wetsanding all together and use plastX on a buffer with a few different pads to remove the product and micro-scratches from the previous pad.

Wipe when finished with the microfiber and you should be seeing clearly!