1999 Corvette - Remove Swirls and Scratches

[Mike Phillips]

1999 Corvette - Remove Swirls and Scratches (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=218)



Today I'm going to try to undo another persons damage to the driver’s door on this black 1999 Corvette.
http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/3scouredarea1.jpg

The scouring on the door was caused by hand applying some type of compound. Below is a close-up of the damage.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2Detailerinducedscouring2.jpg

I'll probably have to machine clean the finish in order to remove the defects. Afterwards, I plan on machine polishing the entire finish first with a rotary buffer, second with a Porter Cable. Then I'll apply two coats of NXT Tech Wax.


After pictures to be posted tonight.

Mike

[Mike Phillips]

Here are some before shots of the finish in its current condition,

Deck lid

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/299Corvettedecklidbefore.jpg

Hood (note the buffer swirls)
http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/299CorvetteHoodSwirlsBefore1.jpg


Besides the scouring in the finish, a local detailer tried to restore the seats with what looks like some kind of paint, or dye.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2dyeonseatbefore.jpg

Mike

[Mike Phillips]

First things first.

After washing the entire car really well, I then clayed all the upper panels. Because the finish was recently detailed, I didn't expect too many bonded contaminants, and rubbing my hand over the clean panels didn't reveal any bonded contaminant issues. I wanted to make sure however because the owners parks the car outside while at work. (other than that it's garage kept). Also, because my goal is to bring the clarity and gloss to it’s maximum potential, I didn’t want to leave anything to chance.

Meguiar’s recently replaced their clay bar in the Quik Clay System (http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/product_detail.cfm?sku=g-11) with a new and improved clay bar that works much better. A quick claying over the car resulted in very little contaminants pulled from the surface.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/299CorvetteClayed.jpg

Close-up of clay after claying the entire car,

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/299CorvetteClayAfter.jpg

After claying the entire car, I quick detailed and dried any residue and then taped off and covered the interior to prevent splatter in cracks and crevices and in the cockpit.

[Mike Phillips]

I wanted to test exactly what it would take to remove approximately 90% of the scratches, swirls and defects in this finish. In my experience, newer Corvettes have very hard paint. I would say it’s like buffing on glass. For this reason, I really didn’t want to compound the car if I didn’t have to. So I decided to see what I could do following Meguiar’s age old advise,

”Always use the least aggressive product to get the job done”

I decided to tape off the rear deck lid and test two combinations while leaving one section in it’s current condition to compare to.

On the left side, I will try #83 DACP with a W-8006 foam polishing on a Makita rotary buffer at the 1800 rpms. I will follow that with #83 DACP with a W-8006 foam polishing pad on the G-100 dual action polisher on the 5.0 setting. I will follow that with an application of NXT Tech Wax by hand.

On the right side, I will try #83 DACP with a W-8006 foam polishing pad on the G-100 dual action polisher on the 5.0 setting. I will follow that with an application of NXT Tech Wax by hand.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/299CorvetteRotaryPCNXT-med.jpg

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/299CorvetteRepairTools.jpg

[Mike Phillips]

After cleaning, polishing and applying the Tech Wax to both sides, and then waiting for the Tech Wax to dry for 15 minutes, I removed the Tech Wax by hand using a Meguiar’s Ultimate Wipe microfiber polishing cloth. I then removed the towel and the tape I used to section off the deckled and pulled the car into full sun to inspect.

Here is some shots of the results,

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999CorvetteTestResults1.jpg

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999Corvette3waytest2.jpg

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999_CorvetteDecklidSidebySide1.jpg

[Mike Phillips]

Here are few more with the sun positioned in each of the sections,

Here is the results on the side I only used the PC on. While not perfect, it is dramatically improved and I only polished if for about 5-10 minutes. With a little more time, I could have removed even more swirls.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999Corvette3waytestPCside.jpg


Here are the results for the side I machine cleaned with the rotary buffer first, and then used the PC on followed by one coat of Tech Wax.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999Corvette3waytestRotary1.jpg

These results are much better, not 100%, but this process achieved the goal I was looking for. The rotary buffer with #83, followed by the PC with #83, followed by Tech Wax will be the combination I will use to buff out the rest of the car.

[Mike Phillips]

The first thing I decided to tackle after dialing in a plan of attack was to remove the scouring on the drivers door. I was told that first this car was detailed and in the process instilled with swirls. Afterwards, another well-intending person thought they would show the owner how easy the swirls would be to remove with the right compound. The owner, trusting that the person knew what they were talking about, allowed the person to demonstrate on the drivers door. Below are the results,

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2Detailerinducedscouring2-med.jpg

I visually inspected the scratches and took a reflection shot of #83 before removing the scratches.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999CorvetteScouredAreaBefore83S1.jpg

Next I took a close-up shot of the surface using the camera’s flash,

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999CorvetteScouredAreaCloseUpFlash.jpg

I have temporally closed this thread until I can finish uploading the rest of the photos with comments. For now I'll be out washing a 1947 Plymouth Coupe for a before and after using ColorX and Tech Wax. Look for this write-up and photos on Friday.

Mike

[Mike Phillips]

First I tried M-83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish with a W-8006 foam polishing pad on a Makita rotary buffer at around 1800 rpms.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2rotarybuffer83b-med.jpg

While this removed a majority of the shallow scratches and restored clarity to the clear coat, it wasn’t aggressive enough to completely remove the deepest scratches.

Next, I substituted M-84 Compound Power Cleaner, with a W-7006 foam cutting pad with the Makita rotary buffer at the same rpm as the previous test.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2rotarybuffer84b-med.jpg

I spent some time slowly moving the buffer back and forth over the affected area overlapping each of my passes by about 50%. After approximately 10 to 15 minutes, I stopped buffing and wiped off the residue. This combination proved effective at removing 95% of the remaining scratches and smoothing out the remaining scratches to the point that they were almost impossible to detect.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999CorvetteScouredAreaAfter84S1-med.jpg

[Mike Phillips]

After compounding with the M-84, and the W-7006, I then re-buffed the entire section with the rotary buffer and the #83/W-8006 to insure that any haze or swirls were removed. This brought the clarity up a just a little higher.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999CorvetteScouredAreaAfter83S1.jpg

[Mike Phillips]

Later, after the machine cleaning step was over, I used the G-100 with W-8006 foam polishing pad and the #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish to completely polish all of the areas I used the rotary buffer on.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2G-10083a.jpg

Here's a picture of the car completely covered with the #83 after polishing with the G-100.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999CorvetteAfterPCDACP-med.jpg

To remove the #83 residue, I'm going to use a combination of 100% cotton terry cloth towels and microfibers polishing cloths. I'll go around the car once and remove a majority of the #83 with terry cloth, and then follow up with a Meguiar's Ultimate Wipe to remove all remaining residues. I prefer to remove the bulk of the cleaner/polish with terry cloth because I feel the nap of a good terry cloth towel helps to slice into and break-up the continuous film-build laying on the surface better than a plush microfiber polishing cloth.

[Mike Phillips]

That night, I applied one coat of NXT Tech Wax. I allowed it to dry for at least 20 minutes after I applied to the entire car and then I removed it by hand using a Meguiar's Ultimate Wipe microfiber polishing cloth.

The finish looked good in the garage but it was after midnight, so I walked away to allow the polymers to set-up over night. The next day, I applied a second coat around 11:00am. I allowed this one to dry for about 15 minutes before wiping it off, this time with a microfiber bonnet on the G-100.

After removing a majority of the wax, I edged the car, and gave it a final wipe-down by hand with a new, clean microfiber polishing cloth.

I then took some reflection shots while the car was still in the garage. I have some Meguiar's poster boards on the wall in the garage. Here's a reflection shot,

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999CorvetteFinished2.jpg

[Mike Phillips]

Lynn finished restoring the seats by removing the dye first. She then re-cleaned the seats again using Meguiar's

Gold Class Rich Leather Aloe Cleaner (http://www.meguiars.com/?automotive-leather-care/Gold-Class-Rich-Leather-Aloe-Cleaner)

Followed by conditioning the leather with,

Gold Class Rich Leather Aloe Conditioner (http://www.meguiars.com/?automotive-leather-care/Gold-Class-Rich-Leather-Aloe-Conditioner)

Here's the before,

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2dyeonseatbefore.jpg

Here's the after,

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999CorvetteSeatRestoreAfter-med.jpg

And Here's a shot of the interior after she detailed it,

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999CorvetteInteriorDetailbyLynn.jpg

[Mike Phillips]

Below are some after shots of the finish with two coats of NXT Tech Wax,

Here is a shot of the sun reflecting off the deck lid,

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999CorvetteFinished3.jpg

Here's a reflection shot of Tech Wax on the deck lid,
(I wiped the bottom of the bottle clean and set it ever so gently onto the finish)

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999CorvetteReflectionShotBottle1c.jpg

And here's a reflection shot of some shrubs on the hood,

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999CorvetteShrubReflection4c.jpg

[Mike Phillips]

Working on newer Corvettes like these must be done carefully. The paint is very hard, but at the same time easily scratched. I have instructed the owner on how to wash the car using only high quality mitts and car washes formulated for automotive paints.

I also spent some time showing him how easy his finish will be to maintain using Meguiar's Quik Detailer, Tech Wax, and NXT Spray Wax.

Although this car was a lot of work to completely buff out, it was a lot of fun and I'm glad the owner trusted me with his baby. (He kissed it before letting Lynn drive it away!)

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2ClearedandReadyforTake-off.jpg

Worst thing about the entire detail is now Lynn want one!

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2toocool-med.jpg

Mike

[Superior Shine]

SWEET!

Man did I enjoy that thread!

[oldmodman]

Mike, can you post a picture of the drivers door where the paint looked ruined before? A side by side before and after would be great!

[tot31]

That is one really great job.Well done Mike.

[Don]

The owner might have been trusting but not crazy ...he let LYNN drive the car ;) The car looks great...not that I'm surprised

PS: here's the side by side oldmodman asked for

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999CorvetteScouredAreaBefore83S1.jpg

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999CorvetteScouredAreaAfter83S1.jpg

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by oldmodman
Mike, can you post a picture of the drivers door where the paint looked ruined before? A side by side before and after would be great!

Hi oldmodman,

Don got to it before me, I would like to point out that the after picture is after machine polishing with DACP. The finish actually gets darker, and more clear after I went over the entire car with the PC/83 combo, and then two PC applied coats of NXT Tech Wax.

I see have I have another picture of the same area of the door from a couple of different angles.

Mike

[Gonzo]

The finish on that vette is just SICK!

Impresive job

[ebpcivicsi]

Mike, first off, FANTASTIC job! The pain tlooks amazing.

I have a question. Why did you apply the DACP to the entire car then remove? I have always removed it a section at a time because because I have found it difficult to remove once it dried. Do you always do this or was there something special about this detail that called for it?

[butchdave]

Mike,

Fantastic job as usual! So, just 83 is ok? Would there have been an improvement by using 84 (I think its 84?) afterwards or would that have been over the top for a daily driver?

Thanks
Dave

[Rick]

Awsome job Mike! You win, that deffinitely looks like it took longer than it did for me to do the lexus. And tell Lynn impressive job with the leather.

[Open Air]

Great Job Mike.

You really have quite a talent. Just wondering if you could have done this job solely with the PC unit and a more aggressive pad/compound or was a buffer required in this circumstance.

My '04 C-5 Convertible needs some polishing and I want to hit it with the #83 then #9. The dealer "cleaned" the car with bad towels and wiped it with dirt on it, so some small scratches to be delt with.

Nothing at all close to the mess you had to deal with. I'm amazed that you were able to acheive such results. Must have reduced that clear coat a little, huh?

Love your threads.

Open Air

[Rockpick]

Absolutely incredible Mike. Great job!

[Bri9801]

Wow

Looks like a different car.....

Excellent job to you both!!

[butchdave]

Hi Tim,

Yes I did read the write up, but as usual I fell foul of Meguiars numbering system. I guess I actually meant 82 then, which most people seem to use to follow up 83, and I would have thought that having run 83 on the rotary, the natural follow up with the PC would have been 82 not 83

[Aurora40]

WOW!!!

Mike that is just unbelievable. And Lynn, that interior looks like it should be on a vinyl and rubber product label! Absolutely flawless! Amazing job on the seats!

That guy is certainly lucky to have had you two to bring his car back to life.

[Blake]

Nice to see two jobs done perfectly. Unreal! the difference.

[George Wax]

Mike what did Lynn use on the carpet to clean it...????

[oldmodman]

Thanks Don and Mike. Looking at the door in the before pics I wouldn't have believed that it could be fixed without a repaint.
The second shot shows that all the "friend" created damage was gone. If the door looks as good as the rest of the car after the dacp and NXT the owner is going to be jumping for joy.

[Slats]

Mike,
You mention that Meguiar's has improved the clay in the Quick Clay system...How is it better?? I read somewhere that the clay (presumably the old clay) is hard to reshape and leaves a lot of residue. Is the new stuff different?

Slats

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by ebpcivicsi
Mike, first off, FANTASTIC job! The paint looks amazing.

I have a question. Why did you apply the DACP to the entire car then remove? I have always removed it a section at a time because I have found it difficult to remove once it dried. Do you always do this or was there something special about this detail that called for it?

Good question ebpcivicsi,

In my life, when I used to detail cars full time, it was too time-intensive to work panel by panel. It may have been easier, but not faster, at least in my mind.

Now mind you, I was never a production-oriented detailer, but instead a quality-oriented detailer. While it may be easier to remove cleaner/polishes like #83 DACP panel by panel, I would focus on using good technique together with an excellent collection of soft, 100% cotton terry cloth towels, to help me remove all compounds, cleaner/polishes and even the initial wipe for pure polishes before switching over to microfiber polishing cloths.

Good removal results come from both,

* High quality removal materials, (Premium quality 100% cotton towels and premium quality microfibers polishing cloths)

* The human element of caring
(In order to get good results you have to pour some of yourself into the work your performing)


Personally, for every car I have ever detailed, I mentally adopt each car as my own. Once I think of a car as my own, I naturally work in such a way as to only do the highest quality work possible.... because it's now… my car.

Does that make sense?

For most people, it's probably easier and faster to apply and remove most products panel-by-panel. At least until their skill level increases. This insures good results no matter what the skill level.

Mike

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by butchdave
Mike,

Fantastic job as usual! So, just 83 is ok? Would there have been an improvement by using 84 (I think its 84?) afterwards or would that have been over the top for a daily driver?

Thanks
Dave

Hi Dave,

My experience with buffing out late model Corvettes with factory paint has taught me that the paint on these cars in incredibly hard. They scratch easy, but removing scratches is very difficult because,

It's hard to remove small particles of paint in a controlled fashion and leave the finish as though it has never been touched. It can be done, however, it's a lot of work.

Because this particular Corvette is a daily driver, I don't believe it was in the owners interest, or my own, to compound the car and produce a completely, scratch-free surface. That's why I only used the #84 Compound Power Cleaner on the scour affected area, and for the rest of the car I used the #83 DACP with the W-8006 on a rotary buffer.

The above combo is much more aggressive than the G-100 by itself, but not so aggressive that I would have to worry about removing too much film-build, (paint), or leaving behind an unsightly swirl.

Just as a side note, I don't go looking for Corvettes to buff out, they seem to find me. Case on point, I have a 1967 Coupe coming up that will blow your socks off! (Yet, it still needs the tender loving care of a Meguiar's foam pad spinning at 1500 +/- rpm with the right chemicals to produce a true, show car shine)

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21967corvette3-med.jpg

This car has a Show Car Shine, but... it doesn't have a flawless finish. That will be my goal; remove the isolated, random deeper scratches, (RIDS), and restore a flawless finish.

Mike

[Open Air]

Mike,

I'm really interested in your work/threads on the vettes. My wife and I own two C-5's and they inevitably have small RIDS as you call them. I'm pretty confident with the PC but do not have any training or experience with a RB. I was hoping you could provide some safe solutions to RIDS using the PC.

I have seen other detailers using small wool pads attached to the PC to get at deeper scratches, then working the area with progressively lower abrasive polishes to return the deep/clear shine.

Do you have any experience/thoughts on this process?

Thanks.

[ebpcivicsi]

Originally posted by Mike Phillips
Good question ebpcivicsi,

In my life, when I used to detail cars full time, it was too time-intensive to work panel by panel. It may have been easier, but not faster, at least in my mind.

Now mind you, I was never a production-oriented detailer, but instead a quality-oriented detailer. While it may be easier to remove cleaner/polishes like #83 DACP panel by panel, I would focus on using good technique together with an excellent collection of soft, 100% cotton terry cloth towels, to help me remove all compounds, cleaner/polishes and even the initial wipe for pure polishes before switching over to microfiber polishing cloths.

Good removal results come from both,

* High quality removal materials, (Premium quality 100% cotton towels and premium quality microfibers polishing cloths)

* The human element of caring
(In order to get good results you have to pour some of yourself into the work your performing)


Personally, for every car I have ever detailed, I mentally adopt each car as my own. Once I think of a car as my own, I naturally work in such a way as to only do the highest quality work possible.... because it's now… my car.

Does that make sense?

For most people, it's probably easier and faster to apply and remove most products panel-by-panel. At least until their skill level increases. This insures good results no matter what the skill level.

Mike

Makes perfect sense to me.

I also prefer using a product over the entire surface, then removing. This is one of the reasons why I love #80 speed glaze.

I guess I have never even thought to try #83 in that manner. Maybe I should think outside the box sometimes.

[Elite M.D.]

Awesome Job on the Vette! Thats what a Vette should look like:D

[Lynn Phillips]

Originally posted by George Wax
Mike what did Lynn use on the carpet to clean it...????
http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/images/product_g94.gif

Heavy Duty Carpet & Interior Cleaner.

Lynn

[Rusty Bumper]

Fabulous job Mike!...But I thought Lynn's work was just as good!

I enjoy seeing neglected paint get new life.

[empowah]

Do you think it is possible to do the same job by hand? I don't have a buffering machine.

[Teak]

Great work Mike and Lynn.

Questions:
How many miles does the vette have? Just wondering due to the condtion of the before interior.

I thought #82 applied using a PC/G100 and W-8006 would be a better follow-up for #83 applied using a rotary with #82 on the PC/G100? Or maybe an additional step after #83 applied using Pc/G100 with W-8006? I realize time is money in the detailing business. Just curious

Mike, I have the same philosphy when detailing someone else car, I adopt the car.

Eric

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by empowah
Do you think it is possible to do the same job by hand? I don't have a buffering machine.

Not even remotely possible. I'll show what can be done by hand on the write-up for the 1947 Plymouth Coupe. Although this is an old car, it has a modern, basecoat/clear coat finish.

Mike

[iceburgh]

Hey Mike that is outstanding....If it is ok by you I am going to post a link to tihs thread at www.corvetteforum.com
I have been telling everyone over there about NXT and other products and many people are starting to see the light this will get everyone using this

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by iceburgh
Hey Mike that is outstanding....If it is ok by you I am going to post a link to tihs thread at www.corvetteforum.com
I have been telling everyone over there about NXT and other products and many people are starting to see the light this will get everyone using this

Hi iceburgh,

I go to CorvetteForum once in a while and read the posts over there. I was over there 2-3 times today.

I have a Corvette Clinic coming up on April 3rd and there will be over 20 Corvettes here at Meguiar's. On the same day, my friend and co-worker, Jason Rose will be holding a Corvette Clinic up North for two different Corvette clubs. Hopefully there will be some CorvetteForum members at either of these two events that will share their experience with their peers.

Here's a link to the event,

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/calendar.php?s=&action=getinfo&eventid=4

I have noticed that now that Tech Wax has proven itself in the Appearance Catagory, now everyone is testing it for durability. From what I can see, there are a handful of people that do their best to position Tech Wax as a product that doesn't last very long. But durability and protection are very hard things to accurately measure.

But when it comes to protection, and I mean real protection, not just water beading, I can't help but to remember this thread on Autopia posted by a person with no apparent axe to grind, in fact, he was using Zaino under the impression it was protecting his finish

#20 provided better protection than Zaino.. (http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25806)

Here’s his post that started the thread,

Originally posted by suginami
My wife and I had to leave our cars outside of the garage for about 5 days. Both cars got hit with sprinklers daily, and the water dried on the cars, leaving heavy water spots / mineral deposits.

My wife's car is a 1994 black Infiniti G20. I had five coats of Z5 and two coats of Z2 on the car, the last coat of Z2 was put on two weeks before the car was left outside. That is a total of seven coats of Zaino.

My car is a 1993 smoke silver (champagne color) Mercedes E320 and had one coat of Meguiar's #20 Polymer Sealant. The coat of Meguiar's #20 was put on the same day as the last coat of Z2 was applied to the Infiniti G20.

I washed and detailed both cars this past weekend.

The results?

The water deposits chemically etched the paint on the G20. Went right through the seven coats of Zaino, and left mineral deposits on the paint. I tried removing the water spots with my Dual Action Polisher, and it wouldn't remove the chemical etching, even with the Meguiar's Compounding pad and #83.

I had to pull out the DeWalt Rotary Buffer and use the Meguiar's Compounding Pad and #83. I then stepped down to #82 and the Polishing Pad, then #82 again with the finishing pad. I then hand applied Show Car Glaze, and just applied a coat of #20 Polymer Sealant.

My E320, on the other hand, remained completely protected with one coat of Polymer Sealant. Everything just hosed right off, and the paint was spotless. No chemical etching. All of the water spots, bird droppings, dirt, etc. just hosed right off.

I'm done with Zaino.

In the big picture, people will use what they find works best for them…

Like I always say, ”Find something you like and use it often”.


Mike

[HEK]

1st let me say that ..wow...and being here a new guy on the block I will ask, is the Mirror Glaze an abrassive??...I have some scratches on the door of my car caused by frozen brushes on a car wash that my wife decided to go in during this past month...anyway I have purchased just about all the products used on this and other threads and will follow your steps, which by the way make sense...

This is about the 4th time I've visited this topic to study your technique....I've used a regular buffer in the past and have had good luck with it, now I have a PC and will repea myself by saying hope to mirror your work....

Great JOB!!:D

[Lynn Phillips]

Originally posted by HEK
1st let me say that ..wow...and being here a new guy on the block I will ask, is the Mirror Glaze an abrassive??


:welcome We are glad to have you as a member!

Mirror Glaze is actually the name for the Meguiar's Professional Line of products. As far as abrasives go, it depends on what product you are referring to in the line.

Here is a list of just a few products in the Professional Mirror Glaze Line...
Washes
Cleaners/Compounds
Polishes
Waxes
Vinyl/Rubber Care
Leather Care
Wheel/Metal Care
Clear Plastic Care
Sandpapers
Buffing Pads

There are more products as well as accessories that are also included in the line. You can get a better idea by going to:
Meguiar's Professional On-line Store (http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/index_pro.cfm)

Lynn

[Lynn Phillips]

Originally posted by Beginner2002
Mike,

What did you use to restore the leather seats?

Regards,

ME! ;)

Okay, here's what I used...

It wasn't easy. I did start with the least aggressive first and worked my way up. I found that the seat had some type of paint, not dye on parts of them. After trying every leather cleaner I had, the only thing that I could think of for removing paint, was paint remover. :eek:

I was worried about how harsh a paint remover would be to the leather so I did a test spot with a Q-Tip and some NON-Acetone nail polish remover. It worked, but not very well. I didn’t want to get more aggressive with chemicals so I worked on small areas with the remover on a microfiber and gently removed the paint. It took some patience but it worked and didn’t seem to hurt the leather. Not something I would recommend.

After I removed the paint I used the GC Aloe Cleaner on the entire seat and followed it with the GC Aloe Conditioner. I did put it on thick and left it overnight for extra conditioning. The next morning I applied a second coat and wiped the seats down with a microfiber before returning the Corvette to it’s owner.

While it wasn’t perfect, it was much better. The owner was going to buy new seats but now it isn’t as urgent for him.

Lynn

Before:

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2dyeonseatbefore.jpg

After:

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999CorvetteSeatRestoreAfter-med.jpg

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999CorvetteInteriorDetailbyLynn.jpg

[ColinM]

Mike,
Roughly how many hours did you work on the paint ?

[Mike Phillips]

Hi Collin,

I usually document pretty well how long I put into a finish, check out this thread here which I used time stamp from beginning to end,

1956 Oldsmobile Rocket 88 (http://www.showcargarage.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&postid=2324#post2324)

The above detail was a little on the extreme side because the finish was in very good condition to start with, at least to the average person, it was glossy and shiny. In reality, it had lot's of scratches throughout the finish and the metallic green paint was a basecoat/clear coat system, while the yellow was a single stage system. For this detail, I erred on the side of caution and took my time working the defects out.

As far as the 1999 Corvette goes, I don’t' remember. I stopped what I was doing often to capture photo's. The deck liked before and after, side-by-side demonstration took at least an hour to do and really had nothing to do with how long it would take to buff out that car from start to finish.

I would guess from start to finish around 6-7 hours the first day, and then another hour the second day as I applied a second coat of Tech Wax and then ran a toothbrush around all of the edges, cracks and crevices.

I didn't go over the entire finish with a compound because quite frankly, this paint was incredibly hard and because it's a daily driver, I didn't think removing each and every defect/scratch to be wise idea. In hindsight, I wish I would have, and perhaps I will re-do it in the future.

Mike

p.s.

Here's the owners comments... (http://www.showcargarage.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=310)

[HEK]

Originally posted by Mike Phillips
First I tried M-83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish with a W-8006 foam polishing pad on a Makita rotary buffer at around 1800 rpms.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2rotarybuffer83b-med.jpg

While this removed a majority of the shallow scratches and restored clarity to the clear coat, it wasn’t aggressive enough to completely remove the deepest scratches.

Next, I substituted M-84 Compound Power Cleaner, with a W-7006 foam cutting pad with the Makita rotary buffer at the same rpm as the previous test.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2rotarybuffer84b-med.jpg

I spent some time slowly moving the buffer back and forth over the affected area overlapping each of my passes by about 50%. After approximately 10 to 15 minutes, I stopped buffing and wiped off the residue. This combination proved effective at removing 95% of the remaining scratches and smoothing out the remaining scratches to the point that they were almost impossible to detect.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999CorvetteScouredAreaAfter84S1-med.jpg

These are the pictures I keep on coming back and looking over and over....I will re-do my car with these two products and ask you before I start..are these abrassive?...and will the gloss on both pictures remain after how many car washes?...or the scratches will re-appear...Newbee question but.... :bow

Far from being a Grasshopper , Master........
:)

Hector

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by HEK
These are the pictures I keep on coming back and looking over and over....I will re-do my car with these two products and ask you before I start..are these abrassive?...and will the gloss on both pictures remain after how many car washes?...or the scratches will re-appear...Newbee question but.... :bow

Far from being a Grasshopper , Master........
:)

Hector

Hi Hector,

The answer to your question,

Are these abrasives
The two products shown in the above pictures contain microscopic diminishing abrasives that breakdown as you use them.

Meguiar's pioneered the use of diminishing abrasives at their very inception with their first products, the Furniture line. Here's something I wrote about a year ago on Meguiar's history,

Meguiar's History, Unique Background and Extensive Product Line (http://www.theartofpolishingpaint.com/meguiarsbackground.html)

The above link will take you to a web page that will explain the Furniture Line comment incase your unfamiliar with Meguiar's 100+ year history.

Diminishing Abrasives
Meguiar's has access to all kinds of diminishing abrasives which they use in different formula's depending on the specific results they are try to achieve.

The way a diminishing abrasive works is this, at the beginning; the abrasives start out aggressive, removing the defect. As the diminishing abrasive is worked against the surface under time, heat and pressure, it breaks down. By doing this, it can remove a defect without scratching and scouring the finish the way a traditional compound will.

Meguiar’s chemists can use diminishing abrasives that react differently under time, heat and pressure, as well as vary the size and aggressiveness of their selection. The result is always a product that performs a dedicated process, such as the #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish.

You can purchase a video from Meguiar’s that uses computer generated graphics to show how this process works, called,

How to Remove Paint Defects (http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/product_detail.cfm?sku=PES-VIDEO) for only $9.99

Or, you can watch the video here for free, (After David fixes the links, right now they’re not working because he moved the videos to another server)

Better Car Care – PES101V

How To Remove Paint Defects (http://www.bettercarcare.com/articles.php?articleId=31)

To watch this video online you will need,

RealPlayer (http://learn.serebra.com/system/download/rp8-standard-u1-setup.exe) for Window’s systems. For all other operation systems, visit Real.com (http://www.real.com) This presentation will not play without the RealPlayer browser plug in or a DSL/cable broadband internet connection.

Meguiar’s Compounds, Paint Cleaners and Cleaner/Polishes all use diminishing abrasives of some type to accomplish there defect removal. Best of all, because all these products use a high lubricating oil film to embody the diminishing abrasives, the results are always clear and glossy ready for the next product and procedure.

Like this,


http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999CorvetteScouredAreaAfter84S1-med.jpg

I hope this answers your questions… if not, please feel free to query further…

Mike

[HEK]

Is been a while since I visited this great place, source of information on a passion I've had for years but have not been able to persue due to personal reasons, but in any case today UPS left at my front door the items mentioned on this thread and I can't wait to use them on my car, but with a guy working on my driveway for a week and him taking his sweet time in paving the now dirt driveway I will have to wait since tomorrow and the rest of the week :FORECAST RAIN..... :mad: ..

Guys HAPPY EASTER!!

Peace

[2000]

mike,
I have three questions for you.
1) why did you use #83 on both the rotery and pc? you didn't step down when you switched to the pc. (I know the pc itself is a bit of a step down abrassive wise, but wouldn't you go to an #82 or similar product step down?
2)how long to you estimate you work a panel with the rotery when you used # 83? ( not the bad spot on the door that you mentioned.) reason I asked was it seemed you worked the product longer than I though you could which might explain my "lack" of luck with it.
3) If lynn wasn't there to do those seats would you of come up with the idea to use nail polish remover?:D give her props!

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by 2000
mike,
I have three questions for you.

1) Why did you use #83 on both the rotary and pc? You didn't step down when you switched to the pc. (I know the pc itself is a bit of a step down abrasive wise, but wouldn't you go to an #82 or similar product step down?

From my experience, newer Corvettes have extremely hard paint, that was true with this particular Corvette. Any time I use a rotary buffer on a car with an extremely hard finish, I like to re-polish the finish using #83 DACP to insure I have removed all swirls. I like the #82 SFP, but I know the #83 will give me a little more bite when using the PC.

2)How long to you estimate you work a panel with the rotary when you used # 83? ( not the bad spot on the door that you mentioned.) Reason I asked was it seemed you worked the product longer than I thought you could which might explain my "lack" of luck with it.

Good question. You never want to work any of the Meguiar’s Professional products until you reach a dry buff. At the same time, you need to buff all of the Meguiar’s Professional products until the diminishing abrasives have completely broken down. If you don’t, you could leave behind a swirl because, the abrasives will not have fully broken down. In essence, you will not have buffed the product long enough. How do you know when you have buffed long enough? Trial and error which builds experience. Remember, pressure is also a very important factor when using the rotary buffer. Do you have a copy of Meguiar’s "How to remove paint defects" (http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/product_detail.cfm?sku=PES-VIDEO) video?

Using video shots and computer generated graphics, this video teaches you quite a bit on technique with the rotary buffer. If you don’t have it, I would recommend getting it. It’s only $9.99

3) If Lynn wasn't there to do those seats would you of come up with the idea to use nail polish remover? :D give her props!

Because she was there, now we’ll never know… (Thanks Lynn!) :bow :bow :bow

One note to your above comment for anyone else reading this that may have missed how she removed the paint from the leather seats. Meguiar’s always says, ”Use the least aggressive product to get the job done”. In keeping with that philosophy, Lynn first tried Meguiar’s’ Gold Class Rich Leather Aloe Cleaner (http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/product_detail.cfm?sku=G-110) with a terry cloth towel. When that didn’t work, she was forced to become more creative. The nail polish remover she used was a non-acetone version. It was aggressive enough to remove the paint from the seats, but a whole lot less aggressive than acetone.

Mike

[geoff]

Looking at the before and after on both the inside and outside is simply amazing. It's hard to believe these days it's possible to really clean up the inside and outside without resorting to Photoshop :D

My wife's car, a '93 Lexus GS300 has a similar color interior, but is in pretty decent shape. The one thing I haven't been able to clean well are the seat belts. What did Lynn use to clean the accumulated crud off the seat belts? In the "after" picture, the seat belt looks like a completely different color!

[Lynn Phillips]

Originally posted by geoff
What did Lynn use to clean the accumulated crud off the seat belts? In the "after" picture, the seat belt looks like a completely different color!

I used...

G-9419 Heavy Duty Carpet & Interrior Cleaner
http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/images/product_g94.gif

wilth an M-9910 Ultimate Wipe http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/images/product_m9.gif

[Rusty Bumper]

Originally posted by Lynn Phillips
I used...

G-9419 Heavy Duty Carpet & Interrior Cleaner
http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/images/product_g94.gif

wilth an M-9910 Ultimate Wipe http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/images/product_m9.gif

Did you have to rinse off the cleaner with a damp rag or something?

We were using it on carpet one time with a wet brush, and it foamed like crazy.

[Lynn Phillips]

Originally posted by Rusty Bumper
Did you have to rinse off the cleaner with a damp rag or something?


No, after it was clean I just used a fresh microfiber to wipe off the excess.

Lynn

[the newbie]

i don't know how i could miss this one,very impressive.
i think the owner just couldn't believe his own eyes when he saw the results of your work.
he kissed the scratch heap goodbye when Lynn drove away,but he needed to kiss her,for taking it to detail heaven.
really enjoyed this tread,thanx

also,impressive interior detail.seems to me that the inside gets the least attention of most people,while it's the part the driver sees more of when he/she is driving it.strange.

Lynn and Mike,you guys did a fabulous job on this one:bow :bow

ciao,Rick

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by the newbie
Also, impressive interior detail.seems to me that the inside gets the least attention of most people,while it's the part the driver sees more of when he/she is driving it.strange.

ciao,

Rick

Hi Rick,

Lynn's interior detail really helped to put the frosting on the cake so to speak, the interior looked better than new when she was finished with it.

Mike

[foris2]

Mike -

You and Lynn did an awesome job on that Vet. :bow

[scrub]

Nice work!! Nice thread!! Great info!! I have a potential client with a newer black vette with virtually the same surface condition. I was thinking the pc and #83 would cut it. NOPE!! I won't even waste his time!

Some questions. How long did you work in #83 with the pc? I understand not to dry buff but what about a ballpark time. Of course ambient temp about 85-90, Humidity 95, at sea level, with a full moon... Again customer service recommends less than a minute of buff time.

If you did buff longer than a few minutes did you apply more product to pad or detail spray? Or did you just continue to work in until almost gone with the one application?

I'm just trying to understand and learn!! Know what I mean?

[Mike Phillips]

How long to polish with the #83 on a PC is something best learned from experience and trial and error. There are a lot of variables.

Suffice to say, you want to buff at a high speed, with enough pressure for a long enough time to remove the defect without going to a dry buff.

Watch the film you leave behind you as you move the PC over the surface. If the film looks and feels dry, you have buffed too long. Aim for a sweet spot between this dry buff and buffing long enough. (See what I mean... you need some time behind the PC to obtain the experience necessary.

Mike

[scrub]

Got it. I just wanted to know what is possible from people with experience rather than limit myself to what I think and know. I'll study some more before the vette undertaking. Thanks for info and pics.

[Rusty Bumper]

I think I'm starting to understand the DACP buffing process a little better than I used to...The right amount of pressure on the buffer makes all the difference in the world.

[Antonio Wright]

What exactly is dry buffing? A while ago I detailed my brothers 2001 Black Volkswagen Jetta. I had a very hard time using DACP. I watched the Meguiars video over and over again. I think I may not be using enough product because I believe the polish is breaking down way too fast.

My question is how much product needs to be applied? Also Mike, did you use the Makita to apply NXT? If you did what speed did you use and are you using the Meguairs 100% cotton towels?

[fiberrich]

Bump!

Can anyone answer the questions Antonio had as well as a few additional ones?

What exactly is dry buffing?

How much DACP do you use on the pad for each section?

Any additional pointers as to what to look for to find the "sweet spot" between "wet" and "dry" buffing?

If after inspection, some scratches/swirls are still on the finish, can you re-apply DACP and keep going at them?

[the newbie]

i know what you'll been through,i know i did!
dacp is not really hard to work with,but it takes a bit more knowledge,experience,and most of all:patience!
don't give up your thrust in megs products,you see the results of these wonderful products overhere every single day.if it turns out not the way you thought,YOU did something wrong.simple is that.
i've been reading a lot of threads about dacp,so i thought:i need to get that stuff.
my first try was a bit disapointing,but i didn't give up,and tried again.see my post 'jaguar full detail' the trunk lid was damaged by a muddy football,and my customer told me,that it was important to him that this spot would be recovered.i had seen the results of dacp,so i knew this stuff could do the job.probably i used a pad that was too soft,because it was the only clean pad i had in stock,it was a yellow polishing pad,and i think i needed a red one,to do the job quicker,but this one did it,it only took a couple of times.very important is the speed setting,and the presure you put on your machine,also the time is of importance.
if you buff too long,you cannot buff it out very easy.it takes some practice,but it's well worth the time you put in it,if you master this product,you really can remove paint defects and scratches with ease,and absolute customer satisfaction.
remember,profesional stuff,needs profesional approach.
be patient,let the products work for you.

ciao,

Rick

[Rusty Bumper]

Originally posted by Antonio Wright
What exactly is dry buffing? A while ago I detailed my brothers 2001 Black Volkswagen Jetta. I had a very hard time using DACP. I watched the Meguiars video over and over again. I think I may not be using enough product because I believe the polish is breaking down way too fast.

My question is how much product needs to be applied? Also Mike, did you use the Makita to apply NXT? If you did what speed did you use and are you using the Meguairs 100% cotton towels?
Dry buffing is when you buff the product too long and the product becomes stiff & dry to the touch...Not to mention hard to get off.

I would apply a good amount of DACP to the pad...It sounds like you are are using it too sparingly.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Antonio Wright
What exactly is dry buffing?

Dry Buffing
Dry buffing is when you have buffed a product to the point that the surface has become dry, or almost dry. The problem with this is that you have buffed so long that the ingredients intended to keep the surface lubricated have dissipated. The result is increased friction between your buffing pad and the surface. If you goal was to create a clear, high gloss finish, the last thing you want to do is to increase friction.

My question is how much product needs to be applied?This is a good question but hard to answer. When you first start out and your pad is new, or used but dry, your initial product will tend to saturate into the pad at least to some degree. For this reason, I tend to put out an ample amount when first starting and reduce the amount of product I apply as I continue to move around the car. Some people like to pre-saturate their buffing pad with some quick detailer first, like Meguiar's Quik Detailer or #34 Final Inspection. I don't do this personally, you can try for yourself and see if you like this technique. It's personal preference.

Another factor that will determine how much product you use is the condition of the surface and what you're trying to accomplish. If you're going to have to work the finish for a long time you'll need more product if the finish needs less work you won't have to buff as long and therefore will not need as much product.

An example would be a heavily oxidized finish versus removing a light haze. The heavily oxidized finish will require more buffing and more product, the light haze in the finish should buff out with just a little product and a little buffing.

This can be kind of tricky however for example if you apply too much of one of our compounds, you can potentially create a surface that is too slippery which will have the effect of not allowing the diminishing abrasive to effectively abrade the surface and remove the defect, you will in essence be fighting yourself. (The cure it to wipe off the surface, clean your pad and start over).

Also Mike, did you use the Makita to apply NXT? If you did what speed did you use and are you using the Meguiar's 100% cotton towels?

I never use a rotary buffer to apply any kind of wax. This is a technique typically used by production detailers.

Mike

[jetta18T]

I'm still in amazement in how a compound caused the horrible scours on the drivers side door, and at the same time a compound was required to remove them... It's funny how the final product turns out depending on who's behind the work. Great job Mike and Lynn!!

[benhui86]

Originally posted by jetta18T
I'm still in amazement in how a compound caused the horrible scours on the drivers side door, and at the same time a compound was required to remove them... It's funny how the final product turns out depending on who's behind the work. Great job Mike and Lynn!!

the compound that screwed up the paint job was probably one of those turtle wax heavy duty ones

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by jetta18T
I'm still in amazement in how a compound caused the horrible scours on the drivers side door, and at the same time a compound was required to remove them... It's funny how the final product turns out depending on who's behind the work. Great job Mike and Lynn!!

Hi Jetta18T,

The story behind the ugly spot on the door as told by the owner is this...

A mobile detailer offered to show the owner how great his product would make his Corvette look. He asked if it would be okay to demonstrate and the owner said "Yes". The detailer then proceeded to apply this compound by hand to the door. The owner didn't notice the damage, but he thinks the detailer did because he ended the conversation and left.

It wasn't until the sun directly hit the door and exposed the damage, and then I pointed it out to the owner did he realize what had happened. (He doesn't drive the car often).

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/3scouredarea1.jpg

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2Detailerinducedscouring2-med.jpg

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999CorvetteScouredAreaCloseUpFlash.jpg

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999CorvetteScouredAreaBefore83S1.jpg

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2rotarybuffer84b-med.jpg

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/21999CorvetteScouredAreaAfter84S1-med.jpg

Anyone can start a mobile detailing business, but this doesn't mean they're qualified to do the work.

Mike

[Tom Weed]

Mike,

The look of that Vette is truely eye catching now, amazing.

Great work,
Tom

[Danny45]

WOW. Mike, I'm truly amazed. After seeing the before shot of that door, I figured a trip to the paint shop was in order!! That's amazing.

Hey, just a thought, but you guys need to include a body panel or two with your kits so we can have something to practice on. :xyxthumbs

[Rusty Bumper]

Hey, just a thought, but you guys need to include a body panel or two with your kits so we can have something to practice on.

Gee, I never thought of that Danny........Great Idea!

[Lt1Corvette]

This has always been my favorite thread. From the paint to the seats, it shows how you can go from very bad to pretty darn good. Way to go Mike and Lynn.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Danny45
Hey, just a thought, but you guys need to include a body panel or two with your kits so we can have something to practice on. :xyxthumbs

Too hard to ship!

:D :D :D

[Lanevoboi757]

Amazing.

[SprintKing]

Mike i noticed that you used the rotarry buff with #83 and then straight away followed up with the PC and #83 ...

im curious what the benefit of this is since its using the same product?

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by SprintKing
Mike i noticed that you used the rotarry buff with #83 and then straight away followed up with the PC and #83 ...

im curious what the benefit of this is since its using the same product?

Same product, same pad, different polishing action

[Astil]

:bounce :xyxthumbs :xyxthumbs :xyxthumbs

It is splendid! Why we have not this line of goods in France? :confused:


:bow ;)

[TKDDAD]

All you can say is WOW....my goal is to be able to produce those kind of results sometime in my lifetime...great job Mike and Lynn !...how could the owner have been anything other than completely ecstatic ?...you realize just how much there is to learn after reading a thread like this, but then you also realize, "hey, there's help out there"...Mequiars, a first class company with first class products and even better service...

[ratcals]

Originally posted by Mike Phillips
Working on newer Corvettes like these must be done carefully. The paint is very hard, but at the same time easily scratched. I have instructed the owner on how to wash the car using only high quality mitts and car washes formulated for automotive paints.


Being a black Corvette owner myself I couldn't agree with this statement more. Any thoughts on why something so hard should scratch so easily?

BTW- Great job on the Corvette :xyxthumbs Interested in making a house call to the UK?

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by ratcals
Being a black Corvette owner myself I couldn't agree with this statement more. Any thoughts on why something so hard should scratch so easily?

I know why, but it's hard to explain in a simple way with words, and I've tried...

Barry coined the term, scratch-sensitive, or abrasion-sensitive, back in either the late 1980's or early 1990's and his choice of words quite accurately describes the characteristic of clear coat finishes.

BTW- Great job on the Corvette :xyxthumbs

Thank you, but I'm afraid to say that I've seen the car recently and it looks as though the finish has gone down hill... the owner, a friend of mine is not what you would call a detailing enthusiasts, he's more of a drive the car through a car wash enthusiasts... It takes a certain amount of skill, patience and passion to maintain a flawless black finish on any car.

Interested in making a house call to the UK?

I'd like to do a clinic over there...

[ratcals]

It never ceases to amaze me how poorly some people take care of their vehicles. Especially something like a Corvette and the Boxster S also featured on this site. I'm still working on the scratches in my car from where the previous owner took it through a car wash.


Judging from the discussion elsewhere on this forum it looks like it will be some time before we see a clinic here.


http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6174


Who do I contact to suggest you come over? I've got just the car for you to demonstrate on :D

[Nappers]

Truly a work of art. I can see minor swirls in a couple of places in my cars (self made I might add) but I have an idea of what to do.

Great job on the Vette.

I hope I can make it to Irvine soon to learn from the masters.

L8R

Aaron

[onawrxhigh]

This is the post that really got the blood going to make all my cars have a flawless finish, and I am still in the learning stages but as other se from my work posted here I am getting. This post is truely inspiring.

Andrew

[as6004me]

that looks phenomenal, I definatley need to work on my technique. I am a little worried about using a power buffing system. Do the scratches come back after a point?


_________________________________
2006

[as6004me]

that looks phenomenal, I definatley need to work on my technique. I am a little worried about using a power buffing system. Do the scratches come back after a point?

joe
_________________________________
2006 Acura RSX Nighthawk Black pearl

[as6004me]

that looks phenomenal, I definatley need to work on my technique. I am a little worried about using a power buffing system. Do the scratches come back after a point?


_________________________________
2006 Acura RSX Nighthawk Black pearl

[dtprkr]

Fantastic job Mike! Do you think you could have achieved the same results without the rotary? Only using the G-100 and Megs products? Ifso, which additional products would you have used?


thanks
dtprkr

[Mike Phillips]

that looks phenomenal, I definatley need to work on my technique. I am a little worried about using a power buffing system. Do the scratches come back after a point?



Not if your thoroughly removed them in the cleaning process.

[Mike Phillips]

Do you think you could have achieved the same results without the rotary? Only using the G-100 and Megs products? Ifso, which additional products would you have used?


thanks
dtprkr

Yes, with enough time. Using only the G100/PC we would have used M83/W-8006, worked a small section and spent a lot of time with emphasis on the word lot.

Never would have relied solely on a dual action polisher however as long as a rotary buffer were available. The rotary buffer is just too effective at removing a lot of paint quickly which is how you remove below surface defects.

[cafemoc]

Thank you for posting great example what PROs can transform worst looking black Vette to the best.
We can set our goal one step higher :bow

[R Evolution1]

Nice Job Mike,

Did you apply anything to the wheel wells?

[Mike Phillips]

Nice Job Mike,

Did you apply anything to the wheel wells?

Nope. Didn't do the wheel wells on this car either...

Test Spot on a Mosler to remove scratches and restore clarity to the clear coat.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/500/MoslerTestSpot001_jpg.JPG

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/500/MoslerTestSpot002_jpg.JPG

After our choice of products were applied and wiped off to the test spot the Mosler was pulled out into the sun to inspect. The products and procedures selected worked in the test spot and then they were duplicated over the entire car.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/500/MoslerTestSpot0031.jpg


Once you dial-in a successful procedure to one small area, all you have to do is repeat the procedure over the entire car. If you can make one small area look good, it's not a leap of faith to figure out you can make the entire car look good.


LSP applied (NXT in this case after machine cleaning and polishing)

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/500/Mosler0022.jpg


LSP removed

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/500/Mosler023_jpg.JPG



It was enough just to do the paint as the body was very curvy with lots of louvers.

Anytime someone wants something besides the exterior paint polished, then it's a different day, a separate charge.

[R Evolution1]

Wow, it must be amazing to be able to work with such exotic cars. The Finish is flawless.

Mike = Cars best friend

[chessplayer]

1 word "Amazing"

[jonny01blaze]

Mike,
Alittle off topic since this thread was on the corvette but I was browsing through this topic yet again and the red blazer in the shots while your working on the vette keeps catching my attention. Is it yours? if so do you have an other pics of it, it is a nice looking ride.

[Mike Phillips]

Yes, that's my 1973 Full convertible, 2-wheel drive K5 Blazer. GM only built 3,300 2-wheel drive models, so it's very rare 34 years later. Contrast that to over 40,000 4 wheel drive models for 1973. I've owned both for 1973 and also owned a 1969 Blazer, so I'm kind of a fan of Full Convertible Blazers.

I had a fender/bender with it last fall so it's down for repair right now. Thinking about installing a one piece tilt front end and a Big Block Chevy in it, thath way I could race Mike Pennington and his 67 Nova


1973 Chevrolet K5 Blazer 2-Wheel Drive

350 engine bored .30 over and balanced
Competition Cam - High Energy 268H
Turbo 350 with a B&M Stage 2 Shift Kit
LoweredThe made just little over 3000 2-wheel drive, Full convertible models in 1973, so it's fairly rare, (actually very rare) :D

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2BlazerMegTruck.jpg

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2Blazer2.jpg

Christmas last 2 years ago...

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/3ConvertibleWeather1.jpg


I never put the top on, if it rains I just cover it with a tarp. :coolgleam


Actually been thinking about turning this and our 1959 Cadillacs into Donks.


Mike's Big Block 1967 Nova

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/7878Pennington_9731.jpg