Meguiar's Clear Plastic Products

[Mike Phillips]

Meguiar's Clear Plastic Products (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26675)
Here is the complete collection of products Meguiar's offers for working with clear plastics both by hand and machine.


G12310 PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+G12310)
This easy-to-use, rich gel formula quickly restores optical clarity to both rigid and flexible clear plastics. Cutting-edge advancements in Meguiar’s® exclusive Microscopic Diminishing Abrasive™ Technology (MDAT) remove light oxidation, chemical degradation, surface contamination, stains and light surface scratches with ease. Special highly water resistant polymers provide long lasting durable protection to keep your clear plastics clear and beautiful longer. We recommend applying PlastX with a High Tech Applicator Pad or Ultra Plush Super Terry and using an Ultra Plush Super Terry or Supreme Shine® Microfiber for the final wipe-off.

http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/imagesEdp/p84711z.jpg




M1008 Clear Plastic Polish (http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.asp?T1=MEG+M1008)
Clear Plastic Polish safely restores optic clarity to all clear plastics. Provides a static-free coating that repels dust. Safe and effective on both acrylic and polycarbonate surfaces. Ideal for boats, RV's, cars, motorcycles and aircraft.

http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/imagesEdp/p84847z.jpg




M1708 Mirror Glaze Clear Plastic Cleaner (http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+M1708)
Clear Plastic Cleaner removes fine hairline scratches from all types of clear plastic. Unique, non-abrasive formula prepares the surface for Mirror Glaze® Clear Plastic Polish. Perfect cleaner for computer screens, convertible windows, helmet visors, motorcycle windscreens, displays and instrument panels.

http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/imagesEdp/p84852z.jpg




M1808 Mirror Glaze Clear Plastic Detailer® (http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+M1808)
Clear Plastic Detailer® is a quick spray and wipe product for all types of clear plastics from CD’s to convertible windows. Non-abrasive formula removes smudges and residue without scratching. Restores and maintains optic clarity. Anti-static/non-crazing formula. Ideally suited for use with a Meguiar’s Professional Ultimate Wipe® Detailing Cloth (M9910).

http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/imagesEdp/p84853z.jpg


:xyxthumbs

[xantonin]

Wow first post.

Would using the M10 Polish after PlastX provide better results/protection or is that redundant?

Also if PlastX is "the best" when would one use M17 Clear Plastic Cleaner? It says it can fix small scratches just like PlastX?

Maybe some examples will clarify things for me.

[Mike Phillips]

Would using the M10 Polish after PlastX provide better results/protection or is that redundant?

No. PlastX contains a protective polymer that M10 does not contain. PlastX uses it's own unique diminishing abrasive and has excellent cleaning and polishing abilities.

M10 is a non-abrasive, pure polish for plastic surfaces to maintain their optical clarity. It is applied like #7 would be applied, that is applied, worked in and then wiped off.


Also if PlastX is "the best" when would one use M17 Clear Plastic Cleaner? It says it can fix small scratches just like PlastX?


Meguiar's has been around for over 100 years and sometimes that actually can come into play for a question like this one. First lets visit the Blast from the Past forum and take a look at this,

Mirror Glaze Plastic Cleaner (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23055)

Here's an early glass bottle of Mirror Glaze Plastic Cleaner. The part number for this product is MGH-10, the complete part number would be MGH -1008 as the last two digits in the part number indicate the size, in this example the Plastic Cleaner came in an 8 ounce bottle.


http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/717/PlasticPolish01.jpg



There's some staining on the back label, but if you look carefully you can that this product met the criteria for Military Specifications MIL C 5547

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/717/PlasticPolish02.jpg



And to help with perspective on it's size, here it is pictures next to a 16 ounce bottle of MGH - 0716 Sealer and Reseal Glaze now called #7 Show Car Glaze.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/717/PlasticPolish03.jpg




When we first introduced our plastic polish it was at a time when plastics were very soft unlike today's plastics which tend to be very hard physically, but like clear coat paints they will scratch very easily. Then the trick is how do you get the scratches out without leaving scratches behind in the process.


Back on topic, later we turned a single product into a 2-step approach with a dedicated plastic cleaner and a dedicated plastic non-abrasive maintenance polish. (No actual wax or sealant type product at this time).

From this thread,
Mirror Glaze Plastic Cleaner (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23055)

As our plastic polishes evolved over time and were improved we switched them over to plastic bottles, here's a couple of bottles from the late 60's or early 70's
http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/717/PlasticPolishes001.jpg


Here's the current packaging...
http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/717/PlasticPolishes002.jpg


Here are two mist & wipe, spray detailers, kind of like Quick Detailer (http://www.meguiars.com/?car-maintenance/Quik-Detailer) is for paint, these are quick detailers for plastic.
http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/717/PlasticPolishes003.jpg


And our most recent addition to our "Plastics Family" is our PlastX which contains a special type of diminishing abrasive that enables you to remove swirls, scratches, haziness, yellowing, and oxidation, as well as a protective polymer to help maintain plastic surfaces after application.
http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/717/PlasticPolishes004.jpg


The legacy continues...


~~~~~~~~~~
End of article
~~~~~~~~~~


The M10 and M17 products have been around a long time and have a strong customer base in the plastics industry, marine industries and aircraft industries to name the primary markets.

There's a huge difference in polishability between traditional Plexiglas and Lexan as well as modern acrylic plastics, and simply put old fashioned Plexiglas is VERY easy to work on. By work on we mean, use a piece of terry cloth with the M17 and using good technique you could abrade the surface and remove scratches while leaving a clear surface behind.

Because of the hardness and lack of polishability of modern plastics, PlastX is a better choice and will be much more effective at restoring things like headlight lenses by hand or machine with our new plastic polishing kit.


Headlight Restoration Kit (http://meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+G1900)

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/702/headlight_action_shot.jpg

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/500/HeadlightKit_Mockb.pnghttp://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/702/HeadlightKit_Family.jpg






Maybe some examples will clarify things for me.


Did the above do the trick?


:)

[xantonin]

:scratchhead1

It helped a bit.

When you first said no, was that to it being redundant? So then you could use M10 afterwards?

If I got it right, summary is:

PlastX: Most abrasive, contains protive polymers, and polishes.
M17: Less abrasive, cleans clearly.
M10: Pure Polish
M18: Detailer

If that's the case, abrasiveness aside PlastX seems to be the only one that offers some protective polymers, yes?

*scratches head*

Here's some examples I have:

A) Headlights, have some rock chips in theme, no oxidation though.
B) OEM CD controls, the turn dial for the audio has some nail scratches around it.
C) I dropped my cell phone, the outside has some clear plastic/acrylic layer but it got some scratchs on it. Okay not car related but still :D
D) DVD with a scratch on it

Sorry for the questions, I learn best by seeing things used and by example, as well as hands on. I'm curious as to what to use for the best results and I thought that PlastX was a combination of M17 and M10, so I figured I could get better results using the 2 step method with M17/M10, but now it seems only PlastX has protective polymers.

[Mike Phillips]

It helped a bit.

When you first said no, was that to it being redundant? So then you could use M10 afterwards?



Let me try again, you wrote,



Would using the M10 Polish after PlastX provide better results/protection

or is that redundant?



Applying M10 AFTER PlastX would not provide better protection, in fact it could remove some of the protection left by PlastX as you are rubbing a liquid over the surface with some kind of application material. (friction).

Did that get it?


If I got it right, summary is:

PlastX: Most abrasive, contains protective polymers, and polishes.
M17: Less abrasive, cleans clearly.
M10: Pure Polish
M18: Detailer

If that's the case, abrasiveness aside PlastX seems to be the only one that offers some protective polymers, yes?



If you define protection as an ingredient left behind with the purpose of creating a barrier shield of protection then yes.

Applying M10 provides protection just by the act of being there as in something is better than nothing. The polishing oils in the M10 can penetrate into the microscopic surface imperfections on the surface and prevent things like water, (oxidation), from taking up this same space so at some level something is better than nothing.


If that makes sense... I don't want to make this any more complicated than it has to be because for most people working on a new car all they need is PlastX. KISS Keep it Simple Simon.




Here's some examples I have:

A) Headlights, have some rock chips in theme, no oxidation though.


PlastX won't replace missing plastic, (a rock chip), back into the headlight. It will maintain plastic to keep it clear.



B) OEM CD controls, the turn dial for the audio has some nail scratches around it.

Be careful when working on hard, or complicated to get to easily spaces, you need room to work the product so when you shrink the size of your work area down you shrink down your ability to adequately apply, work and finish out with the product.

Also, how did the scratches get into the turn dial in the first place. If you polish out the scratches successfully will something have changed so it won't happen again? Or will it always be a problem? Your answer might help you to match your goals to reality.

Because plastics like this are usually hard to polish out you want to test our product and ANY product to a small area before tackling the entire surface.

If you're saying to yourself, well the thing I'm working on is small how do I test in an inconspicuous area? Sorry, we don't make the components, we just make products you can use to work on components. (Those kinds of problems go with the territory, territory = it's your car, your scratched-up component).



C) I dropped my cell phone, the outside has some clear plastic/acrylic layer but it got some scratches on it. Okay not car related but still :D


Because plastics like this are usually hard to polish out you want to test our product and ANY product to a small area before tackling the entire surface.

If you're saying to yourself, well the thing I'm working on is small how do I test in an inconspicuous area? Sorry, we don't make the components, we just make products you can use to work on components. (Those kinds of problems go with the territory, territory = it's your phone, your scratched-up component).





D) DVD with a scratch on it


PlastX works pretty well for this, use a foam applicator pad and how much you have to rub and how many applications it will take depends upon how bad the scratches are and your skill and ability to work a hand applied product to remove small particles of plastic in an effort to level the surface and leave behind a distortion free finish.

How's that?

:)

[xantonin]

That was perfect. :)

I don't expect PlastX to "fix" my headlights but it should be the same idea as scratches and at least "improve" upon the indents and make them less visible.

As for the protection, that makes sense too.

Now for my CD Player, the scratches were caused by the previous owner. They're very light, I myself don't have long nails, ever. So they won't re-occur. Here's a generic photo:

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f129/XCEBlackSun/StockCelicaCenterConsole.jpg

It's not on the turn dial itself but imaging if you put your fingers on it to turn and had long nails; it would scratch the surface where the dial is on. I should be able to pull off the turn dial to give me a slightly bigger area.

If my understanding of what you told me before is correct, M17 should work just find to fix this, following with M10 to look purdy.

As for my phone, I guess it's trial and error, and in this case I'd jump to PlastX.

I suppose then that my main questoin, to summarize, was "can you apply M10 after PlastX" and the short answer is yes, but it doesn't add any benefits over what PlastX should have already supplied. Yes?

[Mike Phillips]

That was perfect. :)

I don't expect PlastX to "fix" my headlights but it should be the same idea as scratches and at least "improve" upon the indents and make them less visible.


Yes, working PlastX over the headlight lenses should improve the overall appearance of the lenses including the chips and other defects.





It's not on the turn dial itself but imaging if you put your fingers on it to turn and had long nails; it would scratch the surface where the dial is on.


Is the scratched plastic solid in color or clear plastic? From the picture it looks like it's in an area that's not clear. Also, is this area textured?



As for my phone, I guess it's trial and error, and in this case I'd jump to PlastX.


It's really a trial and error, case by case situation as there's so many plastics on the market plus some have coatings and some don't. If you rub PlastX over plastic with a coating it will tend to remove the coating. This would usually be very visible so alway focus on the task at hand.



I suppose then that my main question, to summarize, was "can you apply M10 after PlastX" and the short answer is yes, but it doesn't add any benefits over what PlastX should have already supplied. Yes?

Yes.

M10 and M17 are great products but for new cars most of the clear plastic needs can be taken care of with PlastX.

Always test in an inconspicuous area first and use clean soft foam applicator pads like these to apply and work products.

X3070 Soft Foam Applicator Pad (http://meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+X3070)
http://meguiarsdirect.com/imagesEdp/p98193z.jpg

[xantonin]

Thanks Mike!

Just to clarify, that image was inaccurate. Mine is a clear plastic, flat, covering the entire surface. I posted that quickly and must have overlooked it, but mine is indeed different and it is indeed a clear plastic, and I believe I won't need PlastX as far as abrasiveness goes, but if I buy it first it shouldn't hurt. (I'll test!)

I'd probably buy the M18 detailer as well to clean this off quickly in the future.

This just leaves one last question on how to test for a coating but you mentioned it would be very visible after testing, so then the answer for me is to test it. Would you happen to have any pictures of what coating looks like once it's removed? If not I think you clarified everything for me, thanks!

[Mike Phillips]

it is indeed a clear plastic, and I believe I won't need PlastX as far as abrasiveness goes, but if I buy it first it shouldn't hurt. (I'll test!)


For less cleaning or abrading, rub more gently.



I'd probably buy the M18 detailer as well to clean this off quickly in the future.


M18 is handy to keep anywhere you load CD's and DVD's as it will remove fingerprints and smudges so the player can read the data without problems.



This just leaves one last question on how to test for a coating but you mentioned it would be very visible after testing, so then the answer for me is to test it. Would you happen to have any pictures of what coating looks like once it's removed? If not I think you clarified everything for me, thanks!

There's going to be some pictures in this forum, I'd have to do like you and click through the threads and search for one...

Clear Plastics Detailing

Basically, when new the headlight will look great, as it deteriorates it will degrade and flake off usually starting on the top surfaces and look like your headlight has a rash.

Know way of knowing if a headlight lens is coated or not without first contacting the manufacture or visually seeing the deterioration.

Once the coating starts to go bad your options are to abrade it off to reveal normal clear plastic or replace the entire lens.

One of the reasons I like my old cars, they all have glass headlights...

:D

[SkepticalSaru]

I have micro scratches all over my clear plastic that covers the gauge cluster. It's really hard to see unless the light is hitting it at the right angle but when the light does hit it properly like during the early mornings or evenings when the sun is low, I can see the scratches really well to a point when sometimes I can't properly see my numbers on the gauge. These scratches aren't deep at all which i'm sure you may have assumed already so its not like you can feel the scratches or anything. That brings me to the question of which product should I use?

My initial thought before reading this post was use M17 to get rid of the scratches and use M10 to keep it protected. However, from reading the description, when I think of "hairline scratches" I think of something deep enough to where you can kinda feel it with your finger nails and I don't really have any big scratches like that. So is it right to assume that using M10 might be enough?

I already have plastic X and has worked brilliantly to a point where I have fixed all my friend's headlights and everyone thinks I'm a miracle worker now but I'm not sure if plastic X would be the best product to use in this particular case. Please help. Thanks.

[Mike Phillips]

but I'm not sure if plastic X would be the best product to use in this particular case. Please help. Thanks.



Hard to tell until you try.

The problem with the plastic lens that covers your gauges is it's usually awkward to work on, it's even hard to test a little product in an inconspicuous area because there are no inconspicuous areas and again, it's usually awkward and hard to get your hand with an applicator onto the plastic and effectively work the plastic.

Recently one of our forum members had the same problem and he removed the plastic from his dash and then we machine buffed it using M105 with a yellow pad on a DA Polisher and it worked pretty good.

Rubbing plastic by hand is actually rubbing plastic with 2-4 finger tips on an applicator pad if you think about it and if the plastic is soft, the pressure from your fingertips can cause fingermarks in the plastic.

So it's not that our products don't work it's just the place you're wanting to work on is difficult to get to and the plastic you're wanting to work on might not like to be abraded very much and you just don't know what you can do until you try and because there's no inconspicuous areas if you make a mistake or if your plastic doesn't polish very well then the results are going to be right there in front of you.

If nothing else, either M10 or M17 applied lightly should mask some of the swirls and scratches.

Be careful no matter what approach and product you use, try to test in an inconspicuous area first.

Can you take a picture and post it?


:)

[SkepticalSaru]

Here are some pictures.
http://www.saruhouse.com/car/scratch1.jpghttp://www.saruhouse.com/car/scratch2.jpg