Pad flat to the paint, or angled 15*?

[Mosca]

I have been taught that you keep the pad flat to the paint, and so far that's how I've been using the rotary. But in reading the instructions that came with my Makita, they say to angle the pad up about 15* and use the upper half of the rotating pad to do the work. I have also had people tell me this "angle the pad" thing.

Is there a "right" way, or is it that you should use the way that works best for you?

At my last detail day, I had an experienced friend tell me to angle the tool, and it works pretty well that way. I actually found the tool easier to use and control, and the job came out nicely.

[Shiny Lil Detlr]

My understanding is that by angling the tool, it puts slightly more pressure on the front of the pad; this induces a more effective "heavy cutting" action. However, I would also think that this increases the risk of burning through the paint. I guess it comes down to how comfortable you are with the rotary, whether or not you want to use it more aggressively or not.

[ebpcivicsi]

I keep it flat. :confused:

[Murr1525]

I think flat is best for seafesty and evenness. Wont burn through paint that way as easily.

[SpoiledMan]

Flat or imperceptible angle. :D

[Mike Phillips]

Did the instruction book list the type of pad they we're referring to? as in wool pad or foam pad?

[Mosca]

They were referring to the wool pad.

Now there's another question; is there a real answer to the choice of wool or foam pads, or is it whichever one you get the best results from?

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Mosca
They were referring to the wool pad.

That was my hunch.

The directions that come with the buffer are probably some general type directions, possibly written either a long time ago and/or by someone not really experienced and knowledgeable about the actual process of machine buffing paint.

If memory serves me correctly, some backing plate/wool pad systems, instead of using a Velcro, rely on a bolt in the center of the pad to hold the wool pad onto the backing plate. For this reason you would want to hold the buffer/pad at an angle.

Like I mentioned, this is from memory because I've almost always used my trusty, dusty Makita and Velcro backing plate systems for holding my pads, both foam and wool onto the buffer.

Also, holding a pad on edge increase the amount of force applied over a smaller area providing dramatically more cutting power. If you're removing 800 grit sanding marks out of an epoxy mold that would be a good thing.


Now there's another question; is there a real answer to the choice of wool or foam pads, or is it whichever one you get the best results from?

Best results would be one reason, and goals would be another. If you're primarily looking for aggressive cutting and speed, then wool is the way to go, if you're looking for a flawless finish then foam is the way to go.

[Mosca]

Originally posted by Mike Phillips
If you're primarily looking for aggressive cutting and speed, then wool is the way to go, if you're looking for a flawless finish then foam is the way to go.

Well then you know which one I'm going to use.... Actually I've never used a wool pad. This is going to be a blast. MJ is going away for a few days at the beginning of November, and I get to have her car all to myself to practice on!


Tom

[Accumulator]

Originally posted by Mike Phillips
If memory serves me correctly, some backing plate/wool pad systems, instead of using a Velcro, rely on a bolt in the center of the pad to hold the wool pad onto the backing plate. For this reason you would want to hold the buffer/pad at an angle.

Like I mentioned, this is from memory because I've almost always used my trusty, dusty Makita and Velcro backing plate systems for holding my pads, both foam and wool onto the buffer.


Bingo :xyxthumbs Back in the day, the Milwaukees I used at the dealership had the center mounting bolt and any problems from tilting the pad were negligible compared to the dangers of letting the head of the bolt hit the paint.

[Five Star]

Hey Mike,

Have you ever used the finger foam pads? I tried them once and they worked well, but could never find where to buy any. Maybe Megs could develop something similar and offer them?

[Aurora40]

Originally posted by Mike Phillips
Best results would be one reason, and goals would be another. If you're primarily looking for aggressive cutting and speed, then wool is the way to go, if you're looking for a flawless finish then foam is the way to go.

Just curious, but it seemed to me that it was easier to burn things like moldings and paint with a foam cutting pad than with a wool pad.

Is this generally true or generally peoples' experience?

[MichaelM]

Originally posted by Aurora40
Just curious, but it seemed to me that it was easier to burn things like moldings and paint with a foam cutting pad than with a wool pad.

Is this generally true or generally peoples' experience?

Wool runs cooler then foam (more room/passages for air to move around wool fibers then in/out of a foam pad) but has more bite when comparing polishing pads of the two materials.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Five Star
Hey Mike,

Have you ever used the finger foam pads? I tried them once and they worked well, but could never find where to buy any. Maybe Megs could develop something similar and offer them?

No, I've seen them, but never used them. I've used the terry cloth ones before, in fact I have one right here in my desk drawer and I have no idea where it came from.

If you like, post your suggestion here,

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=32

Eyes see what's posted in there.