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tinkz
Aug 5th, 2006, 10:15 PM
hi guys i just need some help from the pros.

i have plastic headlights on my 2000 toyota celica and i have cloudy looking headlights with some oxidation and scratches, i have used plastic x, scratch x and it doesnt really seem to bring up the gloss and get rid of the imperfections on my headlight, im using a meguiars applicator pad and microfibre cloth.

what can i do? heres a pic of my headlight

http://www.newcelica.org/photopost/data/500/17762DSC00135-med.JPG

GSteg
Aug 5th, 2006, 10:55 PM
You can use your PC or rotary with a cutting pad to get rid of the hazy stuff. Here a thread I made. I polished my mom's headlights just a few hours ago.

clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=231466

If you can only do it by hand, then I suggest you keep on scrubbing it because it's going to take forever. :(

tinkz
Aug 6th, 2006, 01:45 AM
man job well done! i want to buy a buffer but im unsure of what to get, i went to the local hardware store and they only had random orbitol sanders and not random orbitol buffers, are they the same thing? im only new to this and i heard random orbitol buffers are the way to go because its hard to stuff up ur paint job

93ZF6
Aug 6th, 2006, 05:06 AM
If you just want to do the headlights you can look for 4" foam pads and a drill arbor on line, I used a set to do my integra lights and the difference was amazing took 2-3 minutes per lamp.

Of course the best bang for your buck long term is probably a PC and a Rotary but the 4" pads make it easy and I got a 4" plate for my PC so I can use it with the drill for access or the PC for spot paint correction.

LiquidBlack
Aug 6th, 2006, 08:30 AM
You guys are forgetting to give him information on the cheapest route.

Alright. Meguiar's ScratchX and PlasticX have diminishing abraisives in their formulas that break down as you work them in.

Let's make sure you are using proper technique. Use the recommended amount of product on the pad, spread it around a small area that you are going to work, and then work it in.

This is what Mike Phillips calls "putting passion behind the pad." I'd work the pad up and down, pressing down in order to break down the diminishing abraisives. As you work, the surface should become cleaner and cleaner.

Once the product is near invisible, remove, inspect, and repeat if necessary.

GSteg
Aug 6th, 2006, 02:53 PM
I agree with liquidblack. I guess I was spoiled because I have a rotary. i tried plastix by hand and it didn't help as much as I wanted it to. But Tinkz's headlights do not look as bad as the camry I did, so plastix probably would work perfectly.

:cool:

kadidle77
Oct 5th, 2006, 05:06 PM
is that a makita buffer and if so is it better than a PC

Tungsten
Oct 6th, 2006, 05:10 AM
is that a makita buffer and if so is it better than a PC
Green body = Hitachi. Probably the SP18VA. It's a direct drive rotary, not a dual-action like the PC.

http://ec3.images-amazon.com/images/P/B0009YSXBU.01-A2N6NO8W19JCUN._SS500_SCLZZZZZZZ_V1119203048_.jpg

headlightpro
Apr 29th, 2007, 04:12 PM
HI there. I was a little skeptical about the way that the headlight was done. If you look on he back of that particular bottle of headlight renew stuff, it says that it will last only 3 months and then you will have to do it again. I would only like to do it once every five years and there are abrasive compounds that get that job done but have a longer effect. No offense to anyone, just advising.