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scroyal05
Aug 11th, 2005, 07:52 AM
Is it really true that the dual action polisher will not burn paint and not create swirl marks? I have polished cars by hand for 20 years but I have never tried a machine of any type to polish a car. I am very interested in getting a dual action polisher, but I don't want to ruin my new black Tacoma. Is the dual action polisher ok for a newbie? What are your opinions?

Blr123
Aug 11th, 2005, 08:03 AM
Hi there,

Here is the link that tells you all you need to know: -

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1395

Bryan

Murr1525
Aug 11th, 2005, 08:17 AM
While I recomend starting out by hand, since you already know the basics from past experience, a machine will be great.

the other pc
Aug 11th, 2005, 12:45 PM
It's true, with appropriate pads and chemicals the DA polisher won't burn paint or create swirl marks.

They are easy and safe, even for a newbie. As with any handcraft it will take some practice to get the very best results but even as a beginner you'll get good results.


PC.

rusty bumper
Aug 11th, 2005, 05:48 PM
Originally posted by scroyal05
Is it really true that the dual action polisher will not burn paint and not create swirl marks? I have polished cars by hand for 20 years but I have never tried a machine of any type to polish a car. I am very interested in getting a dual action polisher, but I don't want to ruin my new black Tacoma. Is the dual action polisher ok for a newbie? What are your opinions?

Hi scroyal05.......Welcome to the forum! :wavey

Here's a link to a video you can watch....
(Scroll down to Power Polisher Clinic)

http://www.meguiars.com/video/

Nice country up your way. :)

GTScott
Aug 12th, 2005, 03:17 AM
That FAQ is great. I would highly recommend reading that to any new PC user like me.

-GT

TKDDAD
Aug 12th, 2005, 04:10 AM
Originally posted by GTScott
That FAQ is great. I would highly recommend reading that to any new PC user like me.

-GT

I AGREE :bounce One thing I heard Barry Meguiar say on the video was to "never wash the pads"...that's contrary to some things I've read here...I've washed mine a couple of times already but am wondering now if I shouldn't anymore ? :confused:

Everything else he said about the DA was absolutely true...I've used my new DA on two cars now and the results are truly amazing...I'll never polish/wax another car by hand...ever.....:xyxthumbs

Tim Lingor
Aug 12th, 2005, 04:19 AM
Hey,

Meguiar's does not recommend washing the buffing pads. Instead, once dry, brush and tap out the residue of the surface.

Now with that said, many do hand wash the pads and allow them air dry. At least, that is what I have heard.... ;)


Tim

TKDDAD
Aug 12th, 2005, 04:24 AM
Originally posted by 2hotford
Hey,

Meguiar's does not recommend washing the buffing pads. Instead, once dry, brush and tap out the residue of the surface.

Now with that said, many do hand wash the pads and allow them air dry. At least, that is what I have heard.... ;)


Tim

Thanks Tim....I'm going to try NOT washing them next time....so basically, you let the product dry on the pad and then just smack the pad around a bit to get the gunk out of it....I'll try it, especially if that's what Meguiars recommends...

Tim Lingor
Aug 12th, 2005, 04:32 AM
Hey TKDDAD


That is correct. :) Immediately after using the pad, I suggest using a clean towel and try to squeeze as much product out of the pad as possible. Then allow the pad to air dry. Do not place the wet pad in a sealed bag. Wait until it dries. Then, once dry, tap the pad and/or use a nylon brush and gently brush the pad. You should have no problems!!

:xyxthumbs

Tim

rusty bumper
Aug 12th, 2005, 05:25 AM
I tapped out a W-7006 pad this week in a sink, and there was a lot of dried up residue that came out of that pad.

A good brushing loosened up even more residue.

OctaneGuy
Aug 12th, 2005, 06:53 AM
At my monthly NXT Detailing clinics, I teach newbies how to use the PC and within 5 to 10 minutes, they know how to handle the PC like a pro. Here are some things that I always remind my students. (Thanks Mike Phillips)

1.) Most people are surprised by how much it vibrates
2.) Make sure not to drag the power cord across your paint
3.) Don't drop the PC on your paint
4.) Keep firm even pressure on the head
5.) Don't show off and use it one handed if you aren't comfortable using it yet!
6.) Always start and stop the PC with the pad still against the paint to avoid splatter
7.) Mask off trim areas or do it the lazy way and clean up splatter with a toothbrush and QD.
8.) Again, Don't drop the PC
9.) You've got two pad choices--W8006 (Polishing Pad) or W9006 (Finishing Pad)
10.) Cutting pad is only used inside of a Microfiber bonnet for removing wax.
11.) When changing pads, don't drop the pad on the floor!!!!
12.) Slow overlapping arm motions are important

Blr123
Aug 12th, 2005, 07:05 AM
Hi Octane,

One question, when using a machine do we use a "circular motion" or a "straight back & forth motion"?

Thanks
Bryan

OctaneGuy
Aug 12th, 2005, 07:19 AM
The motion really doesn't matter. I normally go in straight lines--just as long as I'm overlapping each pass. If you work in straight lines--as in outlining a box, and then filling it in, you can be certain you aren't missing anywhere. But there isn't any directionality to the buffing--i.e., neither one will work any better or worse. =)

Richard


Originally posted by Blr123
Hi Octane,

One question, when using a machine do we use a "circular motion" or a "straight back & forth motion"?

Thanks
Bryan

Blr123
Aug 12th, 2005, 07:33 AM
That's cool thanks Richard.

Bryan

OctaneGuy
Aug 12th, 2005, 07:51 AM
Glad to help!

Richard


Originally posted by Blr123
That's cool thanks Richard.

Bryan

Tim Lingor
Aug 12th, 2005, 07:51 AM
Hey Bryan,

Just to chime in...

I like to use a cross hatch pattern when using the G100 (PC). By that I mean: Side to side and then front to back with even, over-lapping passes. This helps insure total, and even coverage! :)

Tim

OctaneGuy
Aug 12th, 2005, 08:00 AM
Good point Tim. I guess as a matter of preference, stay within a pattern that ensures even coverage, but understand that whether you choose to go circular or not, won't have an impact on it's ability to buff out more or less scratches.

Blr123
Aug 12th, 2005, 08:00 AM
Hi Tim,

Yeah I know exactly what you mean that's how I do it by hand so "no change" which is good, I just have to get a machine now :D

So no shirts or wax for me on my B/Day, which is next month eh :db

Are there any particular machines that you would recommend as a first time buy?

Bryan:

TKDDAD
Aug 12th, 2005, 08:32 AM
Originally posted by Blr123
Hi Tim,

Yeah I know exactly what you mean that's how I do it by hand so "no change" which is good, I just have to get a machine now :D

So no shirts or wax for me on my B/Day, which is next month eh :db

Are there any particular machines that you would recommend as a first time buy?

Bryan:

Bryan, if you're asking about Dual Action machines, I bought the Meguiars G-100 about a month ago (was a 20th wedding anniversary present from my wife !:db: )....I have a Ebony Black 2005 Sonata that I was petrified to use a machine on since I'd allways used the "elbow grease" method of applying products...so needless to say, when I first put that machine on my new car and turned it on, my stomach leapt a little but very quickly I realized that I could have saved a lot of time in my life had I used a machine like this in the past....I cannot say enough about how great it works and what a difference it makes when detailing a car....HIGHLY recommend it .....and I've only used it TWICE !!!...I'll never apply products by hand again....ever.....

Blr123
Aug 12th, 2005, 08:46 AM
Thanks for that TK,

Now I just have to track down a supplier in the UK as we use a dif voltage over here (240volts) and then just drop a few subtle hints.........as you do :D

Bryan

Blr123
Aug 12th, 2005, 09:27 AM
Hello all,

I now understand that the G-100 is the same as a Porter Cable 7424 and niether are available in the UK :rolleyes:

Bryan

rusty bumper
Aug 12th, 2005, 11:47 AM
Originally posted by Blr123
Hello all,

I now understand that the G-100 is the same as a Porter Cable 7424 and niether are available in the UK :rolleyes:

Bryan
Maybe you could have one shipped from the U.S.?

Blr123
Aug 12th, 2005, 12:07 PM
Yeah that's a possibility Rusty, only problem might be customs.

Bryan

Alias
Aug 22nd, 2005, 08:02 AM
I have a couple of newbie questions and ask for your help. A tree branch fell on my car and left bunch of minor scratches on the hood and driver side of my car. I was able to remove one minor scratches (as a test) off my black Range Rover using ScratchX. The problem is I have quite a few of them and it took nine application and a good amount of time to remove one scratch that measures 4" long by hand. Can I use the DA G-100 with ScratchX to remove these minor scratches or is there a better product that is ideal to use with DA G-100 to remove scratches? My main goal is to cut time and to remove the scratches permanently. My other question is after I remove the scratches, should I polish and wax. If so, which meguiar polish and wax should I use? Last but not least what product should I use to remove paint and scratches off my bumper? Thanks for your help.
BTW, what kind of pads do I need to buy for the scratch removal part? My undersatnding is the W8006 and W9006 are only designed for polising and waxiing/finishing.

Murr1525
Aug 22nd, 2005, 09:48 AM
ScratchX is as abrasive as you can get by hand. With a PC, you could use ScratchX, though it is tricky. Would probably be better off with #83. I think that is about the strongest product for the PC.

You would want to use the 8006 pad. The 7006 is not usualy recomended for the PC, and is usualy only used under a bonnet for removing product.

After ScratchXing the trouble spots, it is best to use some paint cleaner on the whole car. DC#1 is a good mild cleaner for this. You certainly should polish and wax after using either cleaner. You could use DC#2 polish, or #7.

#83 and #80 are cleaner polishes, so they take care of both steps. You can go over the whole car with #83, or just the trouble spots with #83, and then all of it with #80.

After polishing, you can wax the whole car with a wax of your choice, perhaps Gold Class, or Nxt. #21 is great if applying by PC.

Use the 8006 pad for the #80/#83, and the 9006 pad for the wax.


As for your bumper, clay and scratchX should be best.

Alias
Aug 22nd, 2005, 10:13 AM
Murr1525, many thanks for the detailed reply. You saved me a lot of headache and time.

Murr1525
Aug 22nd, 2005, 10:15 AM
Sure, I hope it cleared things up enough.

Depending on how much you have detailed in the past, Using the Quick Clay before the paint cleaning steps will improve your overal lresults even more.

Alias
Aug 22nd, 2005, 10:51 AM
Murr1525, many thanks for the detailed reply. You saved me a lot of headache and time.

Alias
Aug 22nd, 2005, 11:10 AM
Sorry guys , I hit the refresh button and find myself reposting my post.

Tim Lingor
Aug 22nd, 2005, 11:43 AM
Originally posted by Alias
Sorry guys , I hit the refresh button and find myself reposting my post.

What repost??? ;) :D

Tim