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View Full Version : Round 1 ....83 vs me



rundatrack
Aug 29th, 2005, 07:31 AM
Well I have learned that it isnt good to put 83 on a warm hood....it gummed up something fierce with my rotary at 1500...and gummed up with my PC at 5....


So round 1

83 win
Me Lose...

:D



:(

Murr1525
Aug 29th, 2005, 07:37 AM
Well, depending on how bad the paint problems are, you can certainly back of a little bit to a setting of 3 or 4 as well... try a cooler hood and a lower setting to keep that from happening.

rundatrack
Aug 29th, 2005, 08:33 AM
Originally posted by Murr1525
Well, depending on how bad the paint problems are, you can certainly back of a little bit to a setting of 3 or 4 as well... try a cooler hood and a lower setting to keep that from happening.

Thanks that is this weekends project.....:xyxthumbs

1BadMach1
Aug 29th, 2005, 08:35 AM
You guys are scaring me, I just bought my first bottle of 83. My black Mach 1 has water spots the size of the state of Maine on the hood, roof and deck lid. If I do gum it up what should I use to get it off. Should I clay the car before I use the 83 even though I have clayed 1 or 2 times this year allready? Maybe I should try it on my girlfriends car first.

Murr1525
Aug 29th, 2005, 08:41 AM
Sacrifice the GF's car for the cause... :D

But gumming up doesnt mean ruing your paint... in most cases, adding a bit more product should solve the problem. And when in doubt, wipe it off and check on here for answers.

You will have to evaluate the surface yourself to see if it needs clayed... If you can fell the tiny bumps, then it should be clayed.

You have had experience with #80? #83 is slightly trickier to use, gims up a little easier. As I said, nothing that will damage your car, but may take a couple tries to get the feel for. And espeacialy if your have experience with #80, you'll be ok.

rundatrack
Aug 29th, 2005, 08:44 AM
Originally posted by Murr1525
Sacrifice the GF's car for the cause... :D

But gumming up doesnt mean ruing your paint... in most cases, adding a bit more product should solve the problem. And when in doubt, wipe it off and check on here for answers.

You will have to evaluate the surface yourself to see if it needs clayed... If you can fell the tiny bumps, then it should be clayed.

You have had experience with #80? #83 is slightly trickier to use, gims up a little easier. As I said, nothing that will damage your car, but may take a couple tries to get the feel for. And espeacialy if your have experience with #80, you'll be ok.

This is my first time with the product so I was expecting some challenges...no biggie....

I need to block outta couple hours ...and just getthe hang of it...

:xyxthumbs

RamAirV1
Aug 29th, 2005, 08:45 AM
Just don't use it on a hot hood and you'll be OK. And follow up th e#83 with some #80.

RamAirV1

1BadMach1
Aug 29th, 2005, 08:56 AM
The girlfriends car is in my sights for the weekend. I'll try it on hers first. This is my first go around with the 80's series. But I have quite a bit of detailing experience. I used Scratch X on some of the worse spots, but to be honest, I want to get it done a lot quicker. Is there anything I can put on that car to keep it from spotting so bad. I used to keep th Mach in the garage but the girlfriend has the garage full to the gills with her stuff. Maybe I should get rid of the girlfriend.

Murr1525
Aug 29th, 2005, 09:06 AM
The best way to keep it from getting scratched/swirled/spotted is to put it in an air tight chamber and leave it there and never touch it.

The next best option is to keep a good coat of wax on it. If you do the 5-steps:
1. Wash with good soap and quality mits/towels
2. Clay
3. Clean with #83/#80
4. Polish (Optional)
4. Wax with Nxt, or #21, etc..

and then add a coat of Nxt Spray wax after each wash, you will get the minimum amount of swirls and spots possible. Some will always happen. But in the future, #80 should be able to remove the minor things, because nothing big will have gotten there that requires #83.

Also, if you live in an area with hard water, be sure to use the Nxt Wash.

1BadMach1
Aug 29th, 2005, 09:16 AM
Thanks for the tips, I have hard water, very hard water. It is a constant battle, it seems I have acid rain too. I should just buy a car cover and be done with it.

Mike Phillips
Aug 29th, 2005, 09:43 AM
When using M83, there are three things you can do to reduce the potential for having the product become gummy.

* Don't overuse the product

* Wipe off any previously applied residue before applying more

* Clean you foam pad often with either a nylon brush like a tooth brush, or hold a terry cloth towel into the foam as you bring up the RPM's

rundatrack
Aug 29th, 2005, 09:55 AM
Originally posted by Mike Phillips
When using M83, there are three things you can do to reduce the potential for having the product become gummy.

* Don't overuse the product

* Wipe off any previously applied residue before applying more

* Clean you foam pad often with either a nylon brush like a tooth brush, or hold a terry cloth towel into the foam as you bring up the RPM's

I made htat X in the pad like in one of your photos...

I feel that the hood may have been too hot....give it another shot soon...

:xyxthumbs

Mike Phillips
Aug 29th, 2005, 10:34 AM
Originally posted by rundatrack
I made that X in the pad like in one of your photos...

I feel that the hood may have been too hot....give it another shot soon...

:xyxthumbs

After applying the product to the pad and then placing the face of the pad in contact with the finish, spread the product out over the area you're going to work, (to spread the product out), and then slow down and begin to work the product using the techniques outlined here...

Using the G-100 to remove swirls with the Professional Line (http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2965)

rusty bumper
Aug 29th, 2005, 10:35 AM
NXT car wash is a good choice for people with hard water.

I know what you mean about water spots. I detailed a black Ford Explorer with nothing but water spots on the hood. It had so many water spots, that the hood looked like a piece of mica! It seems that the former owners had hard water too.

It took many passes with DACP in order to remove most of them. But I never had any problems with the product gumming up though.

1BadMach1
Aug 29th, 2005, 10:45 AM
I'll be ok using terry cloth instead of foam?

RamAirV1
Aug 29th, 2005, 01:35 PM
Originally posted by Mike Phillips
When using M83, there are three things you can do to reduce the potential for having the product become gummy.

* Don't overuse the product

* Wipe off any previously applied residue before applying more

* Clean you foam pad often with either a nylon brush like a tooth brush, or hold a terry cloth towel into the foam as you bring up the RPM's

Does this method apply to the DA too, or should we just use a nylon brush?

RamAirV1

Mike Phillips
Aug 29th, 2005, 01:42 PM
Originally posted by RamAirV1
Does this method apply to the DA too, or should we just use a nylon brush?

RamAirV1

My partial mistake, I was thinking rotary buffer, not dual action polisher. Actually all three methods will work, the last one I'll need to take a picture to show what I'm talking about and how it applies to both types of tools.

RamAirV1
Aug 29th, 2005, 03:11 PM
Originally posted by Mike Phillips
My partial mistake, I was thinking rotary buffer, not dual action polisher. Actually all three methods will work, the last one I'll need to take a picture to show what I'm talking about and how it applies to both types of tools.

Not really a mistake. I figured you were referring to a rotary. What I am really looking for is a secret to quickly clean the pad while on a G100. I have used a toothbrush, and it works, but it takes a long time. A much bigger toothbrush would be helpful.

I do wash them sometimes in Dawn, rinse then dry, but that takes a long time too, especially the drying part! As a result I procrastinate on cleaning them and often just use a new pad.:D

RamAirV1

rusty bumper
Aug 29th, 2005, 03:30 PM
Originally posted by RamAirV1
What I am really looking for is a secret to quickly clean the pad while on a G100. I have used a toothbrush, and it works, but it takes a long time. A much bigger toothbrush would be helpful.

I do wash them sometimes in Dawn, rinse then dry, but that takes a long time too, especially the drying part! As a result I procrastinate on cleaning them and often just use a new pad.:D

RamAirV1
I use a toothbrush like tool, but it has larger nylon bristles than a regular toothbrush does. It does a good job of removing product residue buildup (DACP, etc.) from my pads. I then set the PC at about 2 1/2 for a final spin while holding the brush against it.

Not the fastest way to clean a pad, but it works.

Here's what the brush looks like....

http://www.detailyourcar.com/shop/shop_image/product/080a5f46a508016d1090dff14b7b1bea.jpg

RamAirV1
Aug 29th, 2005, 03:51 PM
Looks like a variation on a detailing brush. I'll have to try that. Thanks for posting the pic!

RamAirV1

rusty bumper
Aug 29th, 2005, 04:57 PM
Originally posted by RamAirV1
Looks like a variation on a detailing brush. I'll have to try that. Thanks for posting the pic!

RamAirV1
You're Welcome!

That brush came with my G-100 kit/combo (Concours Collection I believe) from Meguiars, but I also found another one at a janitorial supply store close by.

I've seen them from time to time at other stores too.

rusty bumper
Aug 29th, 2005, 05:12 PM
I left out one other note.

I scrub the pad with the machine off. The final spin just helps to remove loose dust.....Or you can pull the pad off and tap out the loose dust too.

This is very effective with Meg's cleaners and cleaner/polishes, but the lower dusting products leave little dust to remove (i.e. pure polishes & waxes).