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305Cummins
Oct 22nd, 2005, 04:34 PM
The Meguiar's recommendation is to the use the polishing pad with ColorX and #80, but can I use finishing pad W-9006 with ColorX and #80 Speed Glaze? If not, what are the potential problems?

rusty bumper
Oct 22nd, 2005, 05:42 PM
Originally posted by 305Cummins
The Meguiar's recommendation is to the use the polishing pad with ColorX and #80, but can I use finishing pad W-9006 with ColorX and #80 Speed Glaze? If not, what are the potential problems?
The W9006 pad might gum up quicker, and it won't offer as much cleaning power as the W8006 pad will.

That's not to say that you can't use it for those products, it's just that the polishing pad gives better results.

Accumulator
Oct 23rd, 2005, 09:01 AM
Yep, what Rusty Bumper said :xyxthumbs

I'd approach it as "why use the 9006"? It's not like you need something milder than the 8006 to get a ready-to-wax finish. But if all you had on hand was a 9006 you'd just get less corrective action out of the #80 and you'll have to clean the pad more often.

The 8006 is designed to do correction, so it'll work better with a product like #80 that contains abrasives. Not sure if it'd make as much difference with the Color-X but I'd still wonder about the gumming up.

Can't remember if the Color-X contains (functional) abrasives or not...

rusty bumper
Oct 23rd, 2005, 09:23 AM
Originally posted by Accumulator
Not sure if it'd make as much difference with the Color-X but I'd still wonder about the gumming up.
I used ColorX with a W8006 pad yesterday and it had a little tendency to gum up even on this type of pad, but it came right off after a little brushing with this tool....

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/22080a5f46a508016d1090dff14b7b1bea.jpg

Due to it's density, the W9006 pad might not respond as well to brushing though.


Can't remember if the Color-X contains (functional) abrasives or not...
ColorX has diminishing abrasives in it from what I've heard.

305Cummins
Oct 23rd, 2005, 10:37 AM
I was considering using my finishing pad because my 8006 detached from the velcro yesterday and I don't have a spare. My primary concern was that the finishing pad may not be capable of fully breaking down #80.

Tim Lingor
Oct 23rd, 2005, 03:41 PM
Hey,

I am afraid that I must disagree. Using the W-9006 Finishing Pad with #80 or #82 are popular combos and ones I use often.

The choice of pad is determined by many factors including paint hardness, and/or the precedent product/pad combination or the condition the paint is in already.

If one buffs out a finish using #83 DACP with a W-8006 Pad, and there is a slight haze, switching to the #80 with the W-9006 may remove the haze leaving the finish at its maximum potential. Or... if the finish is already at 90% and you are wanting to only touch-up the finish before applying a LSP, then using the #80 with the W-9006 would be a good choice. Finally, some paints are so soft that even the mild W-8006 pad may leave some extremely fine marring. In that case, the finer finishing pad would be the pad of choice.

To add further, there is no gumming issues with using the W-9006 compared to using the W-8006 with #80. The product may take a little longer to break down with the W-9006, but otherwise no other differences that I have noticed.

Finally brushing a buffing pad and a DA should only be completed with the DA stopped. As such, you are the limiting factor on how aggressive you are using the brush. Using a brush to clean the buffing pads is actually something that is done with rotary buffer users while the pad is spinning. The DA should not be turned on unless the pad is in direct contact with the paint or other solid surface. If a DA pad is allowed to spin in the open air, the DA's action will often throw the pad thereby ruining it.

Tim

rusty bumper
Oct 23rd, 2005, 06:56 PM
Originally posted by 2hotford
Finally brushing a buffing pad and a DA should only be completed with the DA stopped. As such, you are the limiting factor on how aggressive you are using the brush. Using a brush to clean the buffing pads is actually something that is done with rotary buffer users while the pad is spinning. The DA should not be turned on unless the pad is in direct contact with the paint or other solid surface. If a DA pad is allowed to spin in the open air, the DA's action will often throw the pad thereby ruining it.

Tim
Right. I should have mentioned that I brush the pad with the machine off.

However, I have had good success knocking off the fine dust that's left over from brushing a pad aggressively by turning the DA speed down to about 2 or 3 and placing the brush against the center of the pad before turning the machine on.

I then move the brush outwards to the edge of the pad and then I turn the machine off.......This works pretty good for me, but I can't guarantee that the pad won't fly off, even though I haven't had that to happen very often.

Accumulator
Oct 24th, 2005, 07:22 AM
Rusty Bumper- Thanks for the info on Color-X. People ask about it all the time and I don't like not knowing whether it has the abrasives or not.

2HotFord- Interesting, no gumming with the #80/9006 huh? I'll keep that in mind. I did once have paint that #80 seemed too aggressive for, maybe I should've just tried a milder pad instead of going to a different product. Thanks for the info, I won't hesitate to try the #80/9006 combo any more. Might be interesting to try on my Jag's soft lacquer, could be just the ticket.