I'm wondering what grits of paper would be a good choice for all around use, buying all of them seems a bit wasteful.
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Sanding
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Re: Sanding
Depend on what you are doing?
Body filller/paint removal sanding-
80 to 120 DRY-
DO NOT WET SAND "BONDO"- YOU CAN GET WATER TO SEEP INTO THE SURFACE AND GET SWELLING ON THE REPAIRS AFTER A WHILE.
block sanding out primer or major paint damage:
minimum grit of 320 to fine of 400 OR 600 wet sandpaper
block sanding top coat finishes for repaint
600 or 1000
block sanding for polish type work -
2000 or higher (2500)
Instead of finger pressure it is better to use a small 2x3 inch flexible blocking pad for paint sanding- wrap a 1/4 sheet around the pad, use lots of water to flush out paint as you go. when done put the wet sandpaper in a dedicated water bucket
I am sure you will get some folks to suggest a variation of this- It is what always worked for me.
Warning-- big box store "SANDABLE" primers can take a long long time to dry to really sand- Use a Duplicolor automotive sandable primer or spray gun epoxy type.
Good luck- consider a 3M assorted pack for paint sanding
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Re: Sanding
First off, I'm not a wet sanding pro, heck not even advanced beginner.
I have a 3M block and a Meg's block. The 3M one is a softer foam material where the Meg's is more rubbery. I like the 3M one for curved areas like headlights since it conforms a little better. However I like the Meg's one for flat areas because it feels like it spreads the pressure a bit more even.
I would have to look but I think on the bad headlights I started with 1000 or 1500 grit. Those where ones the you couldn't even see the bulb. I did write up on here somewhere. I'll do a bit of digging for it.Scott
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Re: Sanding
No luck finding the write up. I looked in my gallery and there were no headlight photos either. So either I really didn't do a write up or that was one of the old forums.
Side note: I've been looking forward to trying some M105 by hand on headlights.Scott
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