G-100

[madvette74]

today I found this product on the internet and then found this forum, so here's my question, I have painted my car bc/cc and have wet sanded it from 1000-2000 grit, can I use the G-100 (pc) to buff (cut) ??? if so what can product can I use to acomplish this? or start to finsh products in cluding pads to use?? here is a half done job (hope this works) I need to finish the rest of the car by myself....

[scrub]

Hi there Welcome to MOL. WOW this is a tough question. 2000 sanding marks VS the PC. I'm stalling here. I have yet to find a sanding mark scale rating for these products on the main site. I don't have any experience with this topic. I have removed rubbing compoud swirls from paint in the past with 2 or 3 passes of #83 and the PC. My gut feeling is it can be done with the PC, eventually. You really need a rotary for this job. #83 has to be worked in a 2'x2' section for 4-6 minutes with a PC before you move on. The rotary would reduce that time. I'd really love to give it a try though!!

[Marc08EX]

to Meguiar's Online!

First of all, I think that the G-100 is limited in terms of its ability to cut through the paint.. I'm not really sure if this can or cannot be done since I don't have that much experience. I stated this because as far as I know, rotaries are used for this type of task, right?

If you're polishing, you can use the G-100 using Meguiar's pure polishes such as #7 Show Car Glaze or #81 Hand Polish

I know the more experience detailers would chime in..

Hope this helps.. Good luck!

[Mike Phillips]

Re: G-100

Originally posted by madvette74
today I found this product on the internet and then found this forum, so here's my question, I have painted my car bc/cc and have wet sanded it from 1000-2000 grit, can I use the G-100 (pc) to buff (cut) ??? if so what can product can I use to accomplish this? or start to finish products including pads to use?? here is a half done job (hope this works) I need to finish the rest of the car by myself....

The G-100 dual action polisher, (PC), is not designed or intended to be used to remove sanding marks, this is best done with the rotary buffer.

And example of what a G-100 could not do from this thread, PC+83 not "cutting" it!

Here's a pictures of Tim's, (aka forum member svt150tim), new-to-him Ford Lightning with a factory clear coat finish over white basecoat.




Here's what the finish looks like all over the the entire truck,

Horrendous Swirls


Here are the results after 10 minutes of compounding using #84 Compound Power Cleaner with a W-7006 foam cutting pad on about 1800 rpm.



We tried to remove the cobweb-effect using the G-100 with a W-8006 polishing pad and some #83 DACP but it had no visible effect. The clear coat finish on this truck is as hard as glass, the only way to remove the swirls in the finish is to machine compound with a rotary buffer.

The point is, there is only so much a dual action polisher like the Meguiar's G-100 can do, once you reach it's limit, and it's not removing the defect, then it's time to substitute a rotary buffer or if you don't own a rotary buffer, and/or the skills to operate one correctly then you will need to take your car to a professional who is trained and experienced with the proper use of the rotary buffer.

(End of cut and paste)

Meguiar's has a how to video out that shows you how to wet sand, cut and buff for $9.99 To Purchase the PES101V, click the below link,

Purchase "How to remove paint defects"

To watch the video for free at BetterCarCarecom, click the below link,

Watch online "How To Remove Paint Defects"


Note: To watch this video online you will need,

RealPlayer for Window’s systems. For all other operation systems, visit Real.com This presentation will not play without the RealPlayer browser plug in or a DSL/cable broadband internet connection.


Who's this in the pictures using the rotary buffer?



That's the tool you want to use to remove the sanding marks... how many days have passed since you painted it? The longer you wait, the harder the paint will become and the more difficult it will be to remove your sanding marks.

Here are some possible combinations, for cutting out your sanding marks, you could use

W-4000 Wool Pad with #85 Diamond Cut Compound
W-7000 or W-7006 with #84 Compound Power Cleaner

The first option is more aggressive and therefore will be faster.

After cutting out your sanding marks, you will need to remove any swirls or haze with a cleaner/polish and a polishing pad.

Here are four Meguiar's cleaner/polishes, listed from least aggressive to most aggressive,

M-0916 Swirl Remover 2.0



Speed Glaze



M-8232 Swirl Free Polish



#83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish





Mike

[madvette74]

hello..
glad I finally know, that i'll need the buffer not a da, it has been painted about 10 weeks ago... a friend is in the picture, i'll be doing the complete drivers side roof and trunk, looks like i'll need to by a circular buffer, I am a bit worried, but I know i'll be able to do this. with this said I plan on finishing it in the next 2 weeks, and I used an inexpensive bc/cc (kirker) so I am thinking it will not be as hard as the ppg line, so I may get away with something less abrassive, what would you recommend??

[scrub]

Um... Nice reply Mike!

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by madvette74
I am a bit worried, but I know i'll be able to do this. with this said I plan on finishing it in the next 2 weeks, and I used an inexpensive bc/cc (kirker) so I am thinking it will not be as hard as the ppg line, so I may get away with something less abrasive, what would you recommend??

The sooner you get on this, the easier it's going to be.

I would suggest sanding down the finish using Meguiar's Nikken Unigrit Finishing Papers, I would recommend the #1500 Grit paper as it will cut about as fast as anyone's #1200 grit paper and leave sanding marks that will be much easier to remove.

After that, if you want to remove the sanding marks fast I would recommend using a wool cutting pad, like our W-4000 wool pad, with our #85 Diamond Cut Compound. This combination cuts fast, but because the diminishing abrasives breakdown as you're buffing them, it leaves a nice, low swirl finish that will polish up quickly.

Because wool is an aggressive cutting fiber on the rotary buffer, you want to be extra careful around edges, high points and body lines.

Using a compound like the #85 is about as non-abrasive as you can get while still using an aggressive product. That's because it uses a microscopic diminishing abrasive. If you were to feel some between your fingers it would feel more like hand lotion than a cutting compound.

After that, re-polish each panel with either the #83 DACP with A W-8006 foam polishing pad, or the #80 Speed Glaze with the W-8006 foam polishing pad.

After that, for a completely swirl free finish, go over all the panels again with the G-100 Dual Action Polisher with the #80 Speed Glaze.

Hope this helps...

I would highly recommend watching the video.

Mike

[Tim Lingor]

Hey,

I have to fully agree with Mike; the sooner you can wet sand and rotary buff the paint, the better. Once the paint cures, sanding marks can very difficult to remove!! Even worse, if you use inferior sanding paper, you may end up with "tracers".

I too would STRONGLY suggest the Meguiar's Nikken Sanding papers. I would start off with the 1500 grit, then 2000 and finally 2500. Be sure to use a Meguiar's backing block. I would also suggest using some Meguiar's #00 Hi-Tech Wash to the sanding water to aid in further lubrication.

Tim

[madvette74]

thanks Mike, 2hotford
Iam ordering a buffer this weekend and buyibg the pads and polishes as mentioned, really looking forward to do this, i watch the video, and it relieves me of fear on buffing..

[Mike Phillips]

Hi madvette74,

This is going to sound like some crazy advice, but here goes...

If at all possible, find a car that is not important to anyone, as in, it has no value to anyone, this could even be a fender off a car. For example, an old junker in the back yard, or down the road in a wrecking yard.

Buff on this junker car to experiment a little bit first with the products your going to be using before using them on the real deal. While you're buffing, purposefully buff to long in one area and burn through the paint.

Then, purposefully buff to long on some edges and raised body lines until your burn through the paint.

The idea is to learn "What not to do" on a car that's not important to anyone so that you don't make these mistakes on the car that is important to you.

On my trusty, dusty Makita rotary buffer, I have a 100' extension cord I direct wired into the handle. I use to take this and a couple more extension cords and go to a wrecking yard down the road from me and buff on wrecked cars for a number of different reason. I also tried different things working by hand on clear coat finishes so that if I made a mistake, no one would be upset. I think the owner thought I was crazy! (I had been going to this wrecking yard since I was 16 years old as my dad and the owner had a good working relationship).

Anyway, I'm a firm believer in learning what not to do as a method of learning what to do.

Mike

[madvette74]

great idea Mike,
Wish I thought of that, but yes, I have a buddy that will let me do this to his car, it's a beater and the paint is pretty cob webbed and weather beaten...

[madvette74]

mike,
I am in the process of making my order, I am getting the w-7000 w-8000 #85 diamond cut compound,#82 mirror glaze, inspection spray.... but I am unsure what backing plate to purchase?? after getting the backing plate will I need anything else?? I am also going to wet sand the un-buffed side of the car to 2500 or 3000 grit to make the first step of buffing easier to cut....

[madvette74]

In the future I want to get a pc, so could i use the W-100L, not sure if that what it refers to (duel purpose)

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by madvette74
mike,
I am in the process of making my order, I am getting the w-7000 w-8000 #85 diamond cut compound,#82 mirror glaze, inspection spray.... but I am unsure what backing plate to purchase?? after getting the backing plate will I need anything else?? I am also going to wet sand the un-buffed side of the car to 2500 or 3000 grit to make the first step of buffing easier to cut....

A couple of things,

The backing plate for large pads is part number W-65
The backing plate for small pads is part number W64
The backing plate for large pads for the G-100 (PC), is W-65DA
The backing plate for small pads for the G-100 (PC), is W-64DA

Also, the W-85 Diamond Cut Compound is formulated for use with a wool cutting pad.

The M-84 Compound Power Cleaner is formulated for use with foam cutting pads like the W-7000 and the W-7006 pads.

One of the differences in these products as it pertains to which pad it is formulated to work with is the amount of lubricity the formula has. Foam pads require a more slipper surface than wool pads. This is why the #85 product doesn't work as well with foam, it's not slippery enough.

If you want to use a foam cutting pad to remove your sanding marks, the purchase the #84 Compound Power Cleaner, not the #85 Diamond Cut Compound.

One of my best friends in Oregon is a custom paint and has been since high school, all he uses to cut his paint jobs is the #84 Compound Power Cleaner and the W-7000 foam cutting pad and all of his work is stellar.

Also, finishing with a higher grit sanding paper will make the buffing process faster and easier, especially if the paint is still soft. I don't know if I would go with anything past #2500 grit as the #3000 grit is pretty mild as far as sanding papers go.

Do this instead, cut with #1500, then re-sand with either #2000 or #2500 then buff.

Mike

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by madvette74
In the future I want to get a pc, so could i use the W-100L, not sure if that what it refers to (duel purpose)

The PC works best with the W-64DA Backing Plate and small foam pads.

Mike