Scratch-X vs. #80

[Richard E]

Which one works faster (is more agressive) at removing paint defects BY HAND, Scratch-X or #80 ?
Any other things to consider when doing this by hand with either product?
Can either product be made more aggressive by rubbing it in with 100% cotton toweling, instead of a foam applicator?

Thanks.

[Tom MacDonald]

The ScratchX will be a better choice for cleaning by hand than #80. When using ScratchX you want to work it in thoroughly, not aggressively. Then follow up with the #80, and a good layer of wax for protection. Be sure to work the ScratchX on a small panel at a time (3'x3') and wipe off before it drys.

Good luck.......

TOM

[soonercivic]

Use the foam applicator still. Tom was right though. By hand ScratchX is more effective for removing defects. #80 has a lot of polishing qulities to it which is why he said to use it afterwards, but it is abrasive as well. Just remember to work them throughly or you wont get good results.

[Bama]

Dumb question... what do you guys mean by "thoroughly"? ScratchX is the one product from Meguiar's that I have never thought lives up to the hype. I have used it several, several times, with several different techniques, and I don't like it. It either does nothing or makes the area worse in some instances. Before everyone jumps on me, I used the product on just washed vehicles, after a paint cleaner (like DC1), with a clean (just washed or new) Meguiar's applicator, and I have been detailing cars for almost 15 years. I think you would be better off with #80 or ColorX.

[soonercivic]

Well I have gotten great results from ScratchX and not just on my car. With the ScratchX you are supposed to work small areas for about 2-3 minutes then wipe of and reapply as necessary. In my experience it works alot quicker and better if you clay the area first. #80 is good, but not as good by hand. #80 contains alot of polishing oils making it somewhat less abrasive. Also #80 is intended to be used with a PC so that you can break down the diminishing abrasives, if you have one then it works great. #80 by hand is not much more than a slightly abrasive polish that will remove VERY minor defects. ColorX is also limited with removeing defects as well. It does clean the paint, but mainly only removes light swirls, not to the extent of removing a scratch.

[Bama]

Soonercivic, your follow-up was very good and thanks. I have used ScratchX as you described, and it just hasn't worked for me. Maybe my expectations are too high. From my personal experience, if I have a scratch that warrants Scratch X, then the scratch is generally too deep to get out by hand, thus call in the power and some #80. Also, for clarification, I am talking about sratches in the clear coat, not down into the paint, which require more drastic measures.

[soonercivic]

It is possible that you have harder paint. If that is the case, and with the experience you have im sure you can tell, ScratchX on harder paint would be far less effective by hand than it would be on a softer finish for obvious reasons. I have detailed many cars that it is less effective on. The key is to find a method that works for you and stick with it. The paint on my Civic appears to be somewhat soft which im sure probably helps. The fact is, if ScratchX isnt cutting it then nothing you do by hand probably will. Step it up to #80 and if that still isnt enough go with #83. with the PC and you should be ok. You will never be able to compare the results by hand to a machine application of a good product. I say that if you are a detailer of other peoples cars, start with ScratchX and move up. Dont rule it out, it really does work. Sometimes it takes 3 or 4 applications, but i have gotten great results on many different surfaces.

[Mike Phillips]

ScratchX is a very technique driven product. Most people that don't get the results they're looking for fall into one of two camps.

1. The scratches they're trying to remove are too deep and/or the paint is very hard. This makes removing them by hand difficult if not impossible. Thus the reason Meguiar's added these words to the back label.

Note the 3rd paragraph...





2. Often times, people's expectations are too high, and they simply don't understanding how hard their paint is. They don't understand if ScratchX is going to work, it must be worked against the finish with some passion behind the pad, not merely wiped on and then wiped off.

ScratchX does work. Below are the before and after pictures of a Mercedes-Benz hood that we removed the rotary buffer instilled swirls by hand using ScratchX in front of about 25 witnesses.


Before



After

[soonercivic]

Mike to the rescue!!

[Richard E]

Thanks Mike.

So, I can conclude from the quote of Scratch-X's label that it would be more effective by hand than #80, or any other product in Meguiar's line-up? And that Scratch-X's effectiveness is NOT improved by applying it with cotton toweling?

[zr123]

Originally posted by Bama
Dumb question... what do you guys mean by "thoroughly"? ScratchX is the one product from Meguiar's that I have never thought lives up to the hype. I have used it several, several times, with several different techniques, and I don't like it. It either does nothing or makes the area worse in some instances. Before everyone jumps on me, I used the product on just washed vehicles, after a paint cleaner (like DC1), with a clean (just washed or new) Meguiar's applicator, and I have been detailing cars for almost 15 years. I think you would be better off with #80 or ColorX.

When I recently used Scratch X a different way, I came to the same conclusion. Let me explain:

I don't own a DA or PC, so I opt for using my cheapo Simoniz buffer whenever I do my work. I'm not the hand type of guy, so the cheap way out would be using a buffer. On my black BMW (before I had gotten that panel painted) there were some pretty bad swirls and scratches, so I started by applying Scratch X with the pad by hand, worked it in for about 45 seconds (with medium arm pressure), and let the buffer do the rest. I worked it with the buffer for about 45 seconds (making sure I don't overheat the paint or cause any new scratches or swirls) and once I was done, BRAVO!... the results were great... (I wish I had taken some pictures). Some parts I did have to do 2-3 times to perfect.

Anyway, so after reading some posts, I was told to use Scratch X soley by hand, etc, etc... and I thought I would try the whole car like that... and so I did, my results?:

Sure they were great, but only great from where I had initially started using Scratch X... meaning as time went by, my arms got tired and the quality of work started diminishing (naturally, of course). And I was not happy with my overall results.

My conclusion?

Space yourself within the day when you are going to be using Scratch X... work a small area at a time, so you can concentrate on it as much as possible. If you're totally lazy (I'm 1/2 ways there ... ) then try using a buffer, if you own one. Once your arms start getting tired, take a break, maybe work on the interior of the car and then come back and finish off the rest of the exterior using Scratch X.

It works, believe me... just takes time, patience and the passion

[soonercivic]

Be careful using it with a buffer. ScratchX is intended to be used by hand and can become gummy and hard to remove if used with a buffer or polisher. Also by using a buffer you run a risk of creating holograms in the finish. Glad it worked for you, just be cautious.

[Bama]

Mike and Soonercivic, I agree with what you guys are saying, and I have read the label. As usual, Mike's write up hits the nail on the head. The clearcoats that I have used the Scratch X on have been hard, which is a problem. The Scratch X is just not strong enough in those instances, and yes, my expectations are too high!! The product works better on spiderwebbing like in the Mecerdes picuture in my opinion than say on old fashion scratches (ie: a cat). In my opinion, MB's finishes are a lot softer than GM's in my experience also.

[soonercivic]

Yes i believe the GM finish is harder than many others. My grandfathers Impala is much harder to remove defects from. Like i said, use what works for you.