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Client's Cars Batteries Dying

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  • Client's Cars Batteries Dying

    I had a vehicle die in my driveway today and its the third time its happened. I just wondering if any of you guys have similar problem's with your client's vehicles. I always keep the doors closed for as long as possible yet everyonce in awhile one just dyes. Any suggestions besides constantly jumpstarting would be really appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Cole
    Last edited by Cole'sCarDetailing; Sep 17, 2005, 03:44 PM.

  • #2
    Well, I have a couple questions, first.

    1) Do you use the "dome override" or dimmer function inside the vehicle while you're working?

    2) Do you have the "accessories only" running so you can listen to the radio?

    3) Are you doing any cleaning in the engine bay?

    If you aren't complying with those three procedures, you will DEFINITELY keep killing batteries. I've never killed a battery (in a customer vehicle -- my personal vehicles are another story), and I have to feel that it is because I don't use the car to listen to the radio; I turn off the interior lighting and just drag a fluorescent work light into the vehicle while working; and I ALWAYS cover battery terminals when working under the hood, so as not to unintentionally cause a voltage-draining short.

    Now granted, there are other potential causes, but it isn't usually something you will need to worry about as long as you adopt the primary "common sense" principles about how not to drain energy from the charging system.

    Just remember, you've gotten lucky that you don't end up replacing batteries in the clients' cars. Draining down a battery to the point that it can't crank the engine is very risky business. You could end up with a bad cell that doesn't want to re-charge, and then the whole battery is toast.

    Basically, just be careful and use common sense about what you're using the vehicle for/as while working. Rely on it as little as possible for any of the "tools of the trade" that you need in order to work.

    (BTW I'm not assuming you are mis-treating the vehicle mechanically -- just offering up the suggestion/idea as food for thought.)

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks Shiny Lil Detlr for the input,

      I do comply with all of your three suggestions but every once and I while I get a vehicle who's battery is in poor condition before I even start working on the vehicle. I do minimize the amount of lights on in the vehicle but sometimes theres nothing I can do.
      Thanks,
      Cole

      Comment


      • #4
        Instead of jump starting it with cables and another vehicle, which is a pain, look into getting one of those jumper/ booster packs. They are a breeze to use and not that expensive. You could also keep an eye on the vehicles voltage gauge to see if its getting low, if it is just start the vehicle for a couple of minutes. (Remember that you dont want to have a hot engine bay to clean!).
        Rangerpowersports.com
        Ranger72

        Comment


        • #5
          I like Ranger's idea too.

          FWIW, I saw a battery blow up one time. A friend was trying to connect jumper cables to my father's dead battery and there was a spark that ignited the acid fumes.

          My friend had to go to the ER for treatment, but luckily the acid missed my skin & face....So be careful with batteries!
          Last edited by rusty bumper; Sep 17, 2005, 05:07 PM.
          r. b.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Ranger72
            Instead of jump starting it with cables and another vehicle, which is a pain, look into getting one of those jumper/ booster packs. They are a breeze to use and not that expensive. You could also keep an eye on the vehicles voltage gauge to see if its getting low, if it is just start the vehicle for a couple of minutes. (Remember that you dont want to have a hot engine bay to clean!).
            That's a good idea.... actually I almost wonder if (as long as he doesn't need it to be running all the time) it would be better to just disconnect the negative battery cable altogether. That way you're stopping the flow of engergy altogether.

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            • #7
              The only thing with disconnecting it all together is with the majority of cars people loose their programmed radio stations, and clock. It sounds stupid, but to me it just isn't right giving my customer their car back with their stations all gone. lol Maybe I'm nuts!
              Rangerpowersports.com
              Ranger72

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Ranger72
                The only thing with disconnecting it all together is with the majority of cars people loose their programmed radio stations, and clock. It sounds stupid, but to me it just isn't right giving my customer their car back with their stations all gone. lol Maybe I'm nuts!
                there's an easy fix for that- I always write down what the presets are before starting work on the vehicle. If they get lost, I just reset them prior to customer delivery.

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                • #9
                  This is a brilliant idea, but why not just connect a battery charger while you work. You can then keep all the stations and be sure the battery is in great shape when you return it.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Take a trickle charger with you and keep the car "plugged in" whilst you're working on it. I wouldn't disconnect the battery terminal myself, especially in a modern car, as you'll loose much more than the radio presets and clock. My car, for example, would loose it's key memory settings, it's car memory settings and also it's seat memory - and it would really pi$$ me off if I took back the car to find all these things changed.

                    Ben

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by BenP
                      Take a trickle charger with you and keep the car "plugged in" whilst you're working on it. I wouldn't disconnect the battery terminal myself, especially in a modern car, as you'll loose much more than the radio presets and clock. My car, for example, would loose it's key memory settings, it's car memory settings and also it's seat memory - and it would really pi$$ me off if I took back the car to find all these things changed.

                      Ben
                      As well as reseting the ecu. It take time for the car to "relearn" its idle, shift points, and a mirad of other things. A customer may get their car back and notice that it feels different. I.E. shifts firmer, idles a bit inconsistant. Granted, this things will be fine after 110 miles or so of drving, but its still someone elses car. I was also thinking about the trickle charger.
                      Rangerpowersports.com
                      Ranger72

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I'm still sitting here trying to figure out how you guys are draining batteries... I never do anything with them other than cover with saran wrap while I clean the engine bay, and I have never had a problem. I'm not sure where the voltage drain is comming from.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          HOw do you detail the engine bay?

                          I always just wiped everything down with a damp cloth. What do you do?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Shiny Lil Detlr
                            I'm still sitting here trying to figure out how you guys are draining batteries... I never do anything with them other than cover with saran wrap while I clean the engine bay, and I have never had a problem. I'm not sure where the voltage drain is comming from.
                            I would like to add that I have never drained a customers battery! lol
                            Jbirk, if the engine bay is getting detailed then I, first use plastic shopping bags on the alternator, open air filters, and possibly coilpack/ dist, then I mist everthing with water followed by a saturation with Meguiars Super Degreaser at 4:1. I brush/ cloth wipe, toothbrush as needed rinse with "guzzled" hose, then repeat where/if necesary. After that I wipe the heavy water off, and spray my favorite, #40, over all rubber, plastic, hoses, etc. After letting that sit for 10 min or so, I wipe it all down with a microfiber. Last, I use some NXT metal polish on any chrome/ stainless intakes, raw aluminum, any metal in general.
                            Rangerpowersports.com
                            Ranger72

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Jbirk
                              HOw do you detail the engine bay?

                              I always just wiped everything down with a damp cloth. What do you do?
                              I use APC+ and an MF for the "worst of it," and then use a steamer for the rest, and to blast crud out of areas I can't get into with the MF or a toothbrush. While the steamer is "mostly" dry steam, there is still some degree of saturation that gets to the parts. I just wrap anything that 'obviously' shouldn't be getting wet (alternator, wiring harnesses, fuse box harness, battery terminals) with saran wrap, and do them by hand later.

                              The steamer is pretty effective; moreso than any other method I've tried to get a deep clean without getting myself into deep dog-doo.

                              To dress, I found a product from S100 called "engine brightener" -- it works great, and I find it to be very similar to the now-defunct Engine Kote (which I used while it was around). Biggest difference is that its in aerosol cans. It leaves a look that isn't "too shiny," but you can tell it's dressed.

                              My '02 Envoy:





                              Client's '02 Tahoe:

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