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Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle - Updated!
![]() Meguiar's 5-step paint care cycle outlines the steps and procedures you need to perform to not only get your vehicle's finish to that "Show Car Shine", but how to keep it there as well. Along the way we'll make some product recommendations that will return repeatable, proven results. Step 1: Washing Simply put, washing is defined as the removal of loose contaminants from any surface. For this step you will need the following products and tools:
Meguiar's recommends using a ph balanced, non-detergent car wash using the correct dilution with a high quality wash mitt. All Meguiar's car washes are non-detergent and offer excellent cleaning ability while lubricating the surface to help dirt and grime glide off the paint instead of grind into the paint. Always wash in the shade and make sure the surface is cool to the touch before beginning.
Tip: Never use dish washing detergent as it may strip wax protection, promote oxidation and lead to premature deterioration of vinyl, plastic and rubber trim.
Using the 2-bucket method in conjunction with the Grit Guard will reduce the chances of inflicting swirls in your paint. The 2-bucket makes use of one bucket for your wash solution and a second bucket with just plain water to use as a rinse for your wash mitt. The process, then, would be to dunk your wash mitt into the soapy water bucket and wash a panel or section of your vehicle. Then dunk the wash mitt, and any loose contaminants it picked up, into the rinse bucket, swish it around and wring it out. This way any of the loose contaminants will be flushed out of the mitt and settle in the bottom of the rinse bucket. The Grit Guard is simply a baffle in the bottom of the bucket, preventing these loose contaminants from being dispersed back into the water the next time you rinse your wash mitt. Now you can dunk your mitt into the soapy water bucket and wash the next panel or section of your vehicle. As an added safety precaution you can insert a Grit Guard into your soapy water bucket as well. Tip: Wash and rinse one section at a time, to help keep suds from drying on the surface
Drying cloths or chamois After washing your vehicle section by section, it's obviously time to dry the vehicle. You should never just let your vehicle air dry as this leads to water spotting unless you are using something like a DI or RO treatment system, otherwise the minerals in the water will be left behind as the water evaporates. The harder the water, the more spotting will occur. Selecting your drying towel is every bit as important as choosing your wash mitt. You want something that is absorbent but also very soft and gentle to the paint. At this time Meguiar's offers two different microfiber drying towels, one is our Water Magnet waffle weave microfiber drying towel and the other is microfiber chamois. The difference is in the surface design and plushness, but both are excellent choices for the safe and effective drying of your vehicle.
Tip: Use a stream of water for your final rinse to the vehicle. This will help create a sheeting action that will cut drying time in half and reduce the potential for water spots. Once you have finished washing and drying the vehicle you can begin evaluating the surface for the presence of various defects that need to be corrected. Defects fall into two basic categories, and while the overall process of "surface prep" will address both sets of issues, you evaluate them differently and treat them differently. The two categories are:
![]() Below surface defects generally can not be felt, but they can be seen, especially in strong, direct light. Any car will look good in the shade, so inspect your car's finish in direct sunlight or under strong flourscent lights. Good lighting is critical to evaluating the surface. ![]() Tip: Always remove “loose” contaminants by washing and drying the car or using a spray detailer before evaluating the surface Step 2: Surface Prep - Claying and Cleaning the Paint
Claying is a very simple process that usually can be done very quickly. You simply knead and compress the clay into a flat disc, then wet an area of the surface with Meguiar's Quik Detailer spray and quickly glide the clay over the paint. You don't need much pressure at all, just enough to control the clay. It is important to keep the area well lubricated while claying. As the clay removes the bonded contaminants you will feel it start to glide more and more easily. Once the area feels completely smooth to the touch wipe it dry and move on to the next section, continuing this section by section process until the vehicle has been completely clayed.
Paint cleaning, not to be confused with washing, is the process of removing below surface defects. This is accomplished with a one or more liquid paint cleaners containing a mild abrasive to help deep clean and level the paint. Among the most common type of below surface defect, and the thing that most people complain about, are swirls and holograms. Cobweb or spiderweb swirls come primarily from the washing and drying process when poor technique or tools are used - old towels, dishwashing detergents, coarse sponges, etc while holograms are specific type of defect caused by improper use of a high speed rotary buffer.
Liquid paint cleaners should be applied to small areas at a time, no larger than one square foot when working by hand or two square feet when working with a dual action polisher such as the Meguiar's G110 polisher. Working small areas at a time is crucial in order to concentrate the work rather than spreading out over too large an area. Keep the following points in mind when working with any Meguiar's liquid paint cleaner:
The following video shows proper use of these three different liquid paint cleaners when used by hand or with the G110 dual action polisher. Tip: If the defect is not completely removed after the first application, a second, third and sometimes fourth application may be necessary Step 3: Polish
Using a true “pure” polish is an “optional step” - you don’t have to do it. Pure polishes are safe for use on fresh paint - if your vehicle requires a trip to the body shop following an accident or other damage, you should not apply a wax for 60 to 90 days following the fresh paint job as the paint needs to "breathe" and fully cure. You can, however, apply a pure polish during that time period to enhance the gloss. A polish does not need to dry, only waxes need to dry. For this reason, after you’re finished working it into and over the paint, simply remove the excess using a microfiber polishing cloth, or a clean 100% cotton terry cloth towel. The degree of effort is much lower than when using a paint cleaner - remember, you aren't removing any defects here, just enhancing the gloss. When applying a polish, never apply too much, thin coats are better than thick coats and easier to remove, thick coats just wastes product.
Tip: For maximum protection, always follow polish with a coating of wax. Meguiar's pure polishes are water soluble, they are not intended to be a paint protectant but to create gloss and beauty. Step 4: Protect At this stage your vehicle should have a deep, wet, high gloss finish and be nearly defect free. The paint will feel silky smooth, and the reflections will be crisp and vibrant. Now it's time to preserve that high gloss finish by applying a wax or sealant. "Sealant" is really just a fancy word for a wax product that is fully synthetic. That is to say that all the ingredients are man made and the product doesn't actually contain any natural wax. Sealants utilize the lastest technology in paint protection and will generally outlast a carnauba based wax. Some people still prefer the look and feel of a carnauba wax, so Meguiar's continues to offer these products. Which you choose is, to some degree, personal preference. One of the biggest mistakes people make when applying a wax is to apply it too heavy. This only prolongs drying time, makes the wax more difficult to remove, and wastes product. No matter how heavy you apply a wax, once it's dry only so much is going to bond to the paint.
Always allow a wax or sealant to fully “cure” before removing. Use the Swipe Test to determine when to remove the wax. To perform the swipe test simply swipe your clean, dry fingertip across the freshly applied layer of wax. If it streaks or is smeary in the area where you swiped then the wax has not fully dried and should not yet be removed. If the area is clear and glossy, however, then the wax is dry and can be removed with a clean, dry microfiber polishing cloth or 100% cotton terry towel. Low temperatures and/or high humidity can prolong the drying time of any wax.
Tip: 2 thin, uniform coats are always better than 1 thick coat Step 5: Maintain Now that you've got your vehicle looking the way you want it, and it's well protected, you need a proper maintenance routine to keep it looking it's best. Maintaining involves the frequent removal of fresh contaminants before they have a chance to bond or etch into the surface. If the vehicle is driven in the rain, or it accumulates more than a couple days worth of dust and industrial fallout, it should be given a proper wash.
The following video demonstrates proper use of these products as part of a routine maintenance program that will keep your vehicle looking great, even between washes. Tip: When Quik Detailer mist and wipe products become slow to wipe off, that’s a sign it’s time to re-apply wax
__________________
Michael Stoops Internet Technical Specialist Meguiar's Inc. (800) 854-8073 xt 175 mstoops@meguiars.com |
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