A question for our DA experts...

[RGP]

Assuming you are now working on a totally defect free panel, what combination of the following has provided you with the highest and deepest gloss and clarity before the application of your LSP?

Model of DA:

Specific Pad:

Product applied: (I'm thinking M205, but am certainly open to suggestions.)

Speed selection:

Pressure:

I highly value your expertise and appreciate your input.

[Calais]

I'm not quite an expert but I would say that my G110, W9207 Finishing 2.0, M205, Speed 4 with moderate pressure but substantial work time. Top with your LSP of choice.

[tcope1]

If the paint was defect free what would you be applying before the LSP? M205 is going to be applied for paint correction purposes. I don't understand the question.

[CieraSL]

Originally Posted by tcope1

If the paint was defect free what would you be applying before the LSP? M205 is going to be applied for paint correction purposes. I don't understand the question.

Your question seems rather confusing.

[BarryK]

Originally Posted by tcope1

If the paint was defect free what would you be applying before the LSP? M205 is going to be applied for paint correction purposes. I don't understand the question.

that was the first thing that popped into my mind also....

If the panel is totally defect free than why do you need to do anything before LSP at all? If it's in that great of condition than put on your favorite LSP and go relax.

EDIT: The only thing else I can think of that you may mean by your question/post is if you want to take a totally defect free panel and "jewel it" before LSP.
In that case I'd probably use either the gray or blue LC pads (all my pads are LC CCS so I can't give you the equivalent Megs pad) with M205 and light pressure. These pads have no cutting power and with light pressure the M205 will barely have any "cut" to it so you are only polishing at a very supper fine level that many refer to as jeweling the paint for the most possible smoothness and shine from the paint surface.
Afterwards if you are being picky enough to jewel the paint you may want to follow up with M07 Showcar Glaze and than your favorite LSP

[RGP]

Originally Posted by BarryK

that was the first thing that popped into my mind also....

If the panel is totally defect free than why do you need to do anything before LSP at all? If it's in that great of condition than put on your favorite LSP and go relax.

EDIT: The only thing else I can think of that you may mean by your question/post is if you want to take a totally defect free panel and "jewel it" before LSP.
In that case I'd probably use either the gray or blue LC pads (all my pads are LC CCS so I can't give you the equivalent Megs pad) with M205 and light pressure. These pads have no cutting power and with light pressure the M205 will barely have any "cut" to it so you are only polishing at a very supper fine level that many refer to as jeweling the paint for the most possible smoothness and shine from the paint surface.
Afterwards if you are being picky enough to jewel the paint you may want to follow up with M07 Showcar Glaze and than your favorite LSP

That's what I needed. Obviously M205 has already removed the physical defects with a polishing pad. I'm merely going after the ultimate finish with a finishing pad or finessing pad. I now see I should have used the term jeweling.

[the_invisible]

Originally Posted by RGP

Assuming you are now working on a totally defect free panel, what combination of the following has provided you with the highest and deepest gloss and clarity before the application of your LSP?

Model of DA:

Specific Pad:

Product applied: (I'm thinking M205, but am certainly open to suggestions.)

Speed selection:

Pressure:

I highly value your expertise and appreciate your input.

Hi Bob!!! If I recall correctly, you are constantly not satisfied with the paint on your MX-5's trunk. I am not sure if this thread is about achieving best possible shine from the trunk on your Miata, but may I ask if the trunk on your miata or any parts of the vehicle in question has been repainted? On most repaints, there are fine ripples that are only visible under the magnifying glass, and those ripples really hinder gloss and depth. Those ripples are caused by the evaporation of solvents and the rapid temperature change of the newly applied clear coat. Removing these ripples require specialized procedures that are beyond the scope of this thread.

Honestly, if the trunk is really bothering you, have it repainted by a poshy paint shop instead. No amount of DA, rotary polishing, or wetsanding is going to correct a bad paint job!

Anyway, if you want to bring out the gloss and depth of the factory paint:

Model of DA: G100, G110, G110 v2.0

Specific Pad: Meguiar's Softbuff or Softbuff 2.0 finishing pad

Product applied: M205

Speed selection: 5-6

Pressure: 5-15lb. On the instruction of the M205, it tells you to reduce pressure during the final passes.

[RGP]

Originally Posted by the_invisible

Hi Bob!!!

Anyway, if you want to bring out the gloss and depth of the factory paint:

Model of DA: G100, G110, G110 v2.0

Specific Pad: Meguiar's Softbuff or Softbuff 2.0 finishing pad

Product applied: M205

Speed selection: 5-6

Pressure: 5-15lb. On the instruction of the M205, it tells you to reduce pressure during the final passes.

Great answer! The trunk is the major area and it's factory. However, I've only tried to correct things with manual applications and the lowest I've tried is Swirl X. It's darned close, and it may well be all in my head, but I'm soon gonna opt for the new DA and even if it doesn't improve things, I'll think that it has! I appreciate your detailed and very specific answer my friend. Again, I contend if they would only provide pdf's of labels on the site, it would virtually eliminate the need for all this ambiguity. Thanks again!!