I had an epiphany! DACP thread

[bullet1]

So after 2-3 frustrating tries at DACP and sympathizing with all the folks on here who say it is impossibly hard to get off.... I finally got it. You really can't say it enough, too much product and too little work time. I was probably working the DACP for about a minute which seemed like a lot and the product looked as if it was drying while I was working it. But I was totally wrong. I was very much used to working with products such as #80 and #82 that are rich in oils and easy to use and use for a while. This is much different with #83. It isn't nearly as oily and is tougher to tell when it has been fully worked.

What I really paid attention to is what 80/82 looked like when it had been worked all the way and was ready to wipe off. #83 was always much thicker hazier which caused it to be very difficult to wipe off. So with my last car I decided to work it for 2-3 minutes or more per application and boy, what a difference. I finally gave 83 a chance to polish to a shine and down to a real thin, light, completely worked, easy to remove layer. I found that 83 appears to dry quite quickly, but in actuality it is not dry, it just looks different than the other more oily products. When I continued to work the product it continued to break down and get thinner and thinner until it was cake to get off.

So my point of this post is this; make sure you work 83 into the paint until all the diminishing abrasives have broken down and all that is left is a real thin layer of polish left on the surface. If it is still devilishly hard to remove, increase your work time and sooner or later you'll get it. Now this is definitely one of my favorite products. 80/82/83 are 3 fantastic products.

A before and after from a 83/80 application.

[Cassman]

Thanks for the write-up. I think it will help. I have the same problem you had. Maybe, like you, I won't have that problem anymore. I'm detailing a silver Jetta this weekend. Depending on the condition of the paint, I'll try #83 and use your advice.

[TH0001]

But on the flip side of the coin, if you work it too long, just wait and try to remove it. I have used DACP on the PC alot and love it, but it really shines on a rotary, IMHO....

[bullet1]

I have no doubt about that, but it always seems to be a topic on here where folks use it with a PC and have a hard time removing it. One of these days I'll get around to getting a Rotary and learning to use it. But for now I'll have to make due with the PC.

[Cassman]

Originally posted by bullet1
I have no doubt about that, but it always seems to be a topic on here where folks use it with a PC and have a hard time removing it. One of these days I'll get around to getting a Rotary and learning to use it. But for now I'll have to make due with the PC.

My thoughts exactly.

[amari]

Thanks Brian for the write-up and the advice too

[kellyinkc]

I found the same thing too! Once I did wow what a diffence. Gota have patience.

[Cassman]

I had the chance to really let the #83 work last weekend. It worked beautifully. Unlike previous attempts, it wiped off so much easier. Looked great also. I guess it took your simple thread to finally pound the technique into my thick skull. Thanks for your input!

[minorthreat98]

So from what it sounds like, are you saying you are only spending 4-5 minutes per application?

I use a conservative amount of 83 per app. Going off of the "wipe test" it usually takes me about 10 min per application (12"x12")

anyone want to clue me in here?

[96greencivic]

I'm getting nervous about using 83 now. It's on the way from ADS now, but I'm wondering if I should be conservative with the amount I use and how long to use it with the PC.

Although, I love the results.

[LiquidBlack]

When buffing with #83 DACP, I will buff normally for 1 minute, then lighten up pressure and go over the entire buffing area quickly. This tends to reinvigorate/rewetten the buffing area, and I resume. I repeat this when it seems it is time to wipe off.

[bullet1]

There isn't really anything to be nervous about. Its just that 83 isnt as wet as some of the other polishes, and when it seems like it might be done and dry, it really isn't and you can still work it in more. I find that if it is hard to get off, you haven't broken it down enough with the PC.

[Mosca]

My experience mirrors yours. What I found was that unlike #80, where the abrasives break down quickly and then you have a very long window in which to polish before wiping clean, the abrasives in #83 break down linearly over a longer time, and the window between final breakdown and dry-out is short. Even after you've gained experience, finding and keeping that window gets tough as the pad starts to load up during a job.

#83 is a real workhorse with the G-100, though. Even when it leaves micro-marring, you can take advantage of its polishing power and finish it up with #80 or #82.

With the rotary, #83's relative lack of polishing oils make it something of the "odd product out" in my arsenal. It dries on the pad very quickly. Even though #84 or #85 are 1 1/2 times stronger, for me they work better with the rotary because I'm not constantly spurring the pad or polishing dry.


Tom

[Tuningfreak]

Hi Guys!

I take this thread because I think my questions will fit in here...

U got my very good dual action polisher (german company) this week and couldnt wait until weekend to try it out. I bought different mirror glaze products (#80, 82 and 83) and for each product a W8006 pad.

I first cleaned the hood of the blue car, 1 1/2 years old and with dealer installed swirls and some washing scratches. Then I clayed the hood and wiped of the quik detailer spray. Then I drove the car into the garage to avoid heat / sun, paint was cool to the touch.

First I started with #82. I spread 2 small lines (like a cross) over the pad and started buffing a quarter of the hood. I did first up n down movements, turning to left-right movements, always making a 50% pass over the area before. I didnt used any higher pressure, that was the first mistake I did. The second mistake was, to use less time to work the product in. It only takes maximum 1 minute, then I startet to wipe off the product rest, so it was not easy to remove the product.

How you can imagine, there was no result - the scratches and swirls couldnt be removed. At this time I didnt check Meguiars online for pressure information and time to work in the product information...

So I used the next product, #80 also with no or a minimum result. At the end I used the #83 with 2 passes (like done above!) - also without or minimum result.

So I started reading here and realized that I didnt take care of the time to work in the product and also didnt take care of the pressure. OK, I went down into the garage, tried again with #80 and #83. This time with the right pressure and a lot more time to work in the products. And: I got better results! 83 was the thing - I did only one pass, but the improvement was good.

Now my additional questions:

1) I think I took time to work in the #83 forover 1 1/2 minutes. At the end, some tiny white "rolls" and "particles" where around the buffing area and I got some white dust on the hood, but I was not sure if the product was still wet or dry. Wiping off was much easier than before, but I´m still not sure if it was too short or too long or maybe exactly correct time! Is there any hint to find this out???

2) If it was the right time and right pressure and not all scratches and swirls gone away, how much passes should / could I do without any risc? Would it be better to use now e.g. the #82 or #80 instead of using again the #83?

3) Is my way to spread the product on the pad the right way? One small line from up to down, one small line from left to right. Should I spread the product first a little bit onto the paint without turning on the buffer, or can I put the buffer-pad on the paint and start buffing?

THANKS in advance for your help!

Thomas

[wjfm1]

Re: I had an epiphany! DACP thread

I basically start with the size of a half dollar on the pad!