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Old Jan 12th, 2005, 09:35 AM   #1
Zitosonic
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Glass Polishing... deep cleaning

Glass Polishing - Deep Cleaning

Dont try this if you are not confident about your skills ... my car windows have acid rain i cant get rid of it... i try white vinegar, kerosene, windex, cigar ashes with no result... so after getting nutz (some may say what i do is crazy) i decide to go hard with this.

I use W-8000 yellow foam pad with Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner on a rotary buffer at medium low speed and it works well. But I was curious so i try something with more bite and use Compound Power Cleaner and it works magic.
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Old Jan 12th, 2005, 09:51 AM   #2
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Next time you can try some M04 Heavy Cut Cleaner by hand with a piece of terry cloth or by machine with a W=7006 foam cutting pad.


M0416 Heavy Cut Cleaner




It will work so much better than either of the two product you tried because of the type of diminishing abrasive this product uses. Next time you're around a bottle of #4 Heavy Cut Cleaner, shake up the bottle and pour a little into your fingers and then rub your fingers back and forth. You will easily feel the diminishing abrasives, (if you continue to rub your fingers together your will feel the diminishing abrasives breakdown and disappear).

Now, feel any of the products in the 80's series, such as the #84 Compound Power Cleaner in the same way and it will feel like you're rubbing a soft, smooth hand lotion between your fingers.

The difference is the 80's series uses microscopic diminishing abrasives while the traditional Mirror Glaze products use for lack of a better term, macroscopic diminishing abrasives.

It is this larger size diminishing abrasive particle that cuts, or slices through the film that has built up on the surface of your glass and polishes it off.

Liquid glass cleaners don't offer this polishing effect. When ever I detail a customers car, I'll almost always machine polish their glass with this system so that the glass is a glossy and shiny as the paint. When you do this and you've detailed the car correctly, the finished look jumps out at you! because everything on the car is gleaming.

In Oregon and Washington, I ran into a lot of people with horrendous water spots on their glass, as such, I have a lot of experience polishing glass.


If you have a marine store nearby you can also use Mirror Glaze Heavy Duty Oxidation Remover

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Old Jan 12th, 2005, 10:07 AM   #3
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i haven't try it yet, but i will

thanks Mike
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Old Jan 12th, 2005, 10:31 AM   #4
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Are there products that you'd recommend for cleaning glass without the use of a rotary? Perhaps something that can be applied with a DA or by hand?
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Old Jan 12th, 2005, 12:41 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by kty10
Are there products that you'd recommend for cleaning glass without the use of a rotary? Perhaps something that can be applied with a DA or by hand?
I use a terry cloth first and need a lot of elbow grease to make it work, but If you can use a terry cloth there is no doubt it will work with a DA.

Lets follow Mike's suggestion and use a cleaner or compound that uses Meguiar's Diminishing Abrasives technology.
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Old Jan 12th, 2005, 01:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by kty10
Are there products that you'd recommend for cleaning glass without the use of a rotary? Perhaps something that can be applied with a DA or by hand?
What works best for removing any kind of water deposits or gunk that has built-up on the outside of your cars glass is a rotary buffer with either a foam cutting pad or a wool cutting pad. That's only because the machine takes all the work out of it.

If you don't have a rotary buffer then the next best approach is to use a piece of terry cloth by hand with some enthusiasm. The nap, (the little cotton loops), act as a gentle form of an abrasive together with the diminishing abrasives to help you cut through the layer of gunk and expose the glass surface.

The oscillating action of the dual action polisher with a foam pad doesn't work. That's because the dual action polisher is typically to gentle to be effective, that is, you can probably be more effective and work faster by hand than with the dual action polisher for this procedure.

Mike
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Old Jan 16th, 2005, 05:21 PM   #7
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Mike, will #4 with rotary buffer cuts the glass and remove scratches? Will it also mar the glass surface?
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Old Jan 17th, 2005, 02:42 AM   #8
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I borrowed a single speed rotary several years back and used a compound (type forgotten) with a wool pad on the windshield of an '86 Toyota pickup that I had at the time. This was back before I even had a clue about using a Variable Speed buffer and didn't even know the PC existed (all I had was a GEM orbital).

My clueless use of the rotary left some obvious holograms on the glass, BUT, some of the marks I was trying to get rid of were gone.

I have a feeling that the Toyota glass was a bit 'softer' than usual, so it swirled with my bad technique. If I'd have known what I was doing, I bet I could have improved it even more.

I plan on doing something similar to the wife's Jeep. I've been driving it to work since the accident, and even Rain-X isn't effective (we've had some HEAVY rains & snows and I can't see a thing while I'm driving). I was going to use some #83 & the PC, but now I'm thinking about going to the body shop that has my Cavalier & borrowing a VS rotary.
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Old Jan 17th, 2005, 06:46 AM   #9
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I assume that M85 would work as well.
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Old Jan 17th, 2005, 08:24 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike Phillips
In Oregon and Washington, I ran into a lot of people with horrendous water spots on their glass, as such, I have a lot of experience polishing glass.Mike
Mike, any suggestions for a product to apply after polishing to help maintain the surface? I searched and found a post asking this question where Lynn replied that Meguiar's doesn't make that kind of product and recommended RainX. I was wondering if any of the paint protection products (NXT, etc) would be worthwhile on sunroofs, side, and rear windows. In the old days I always used to wax my windows, but somewhere along the way I stopped doing it.
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