Question for the Pro's - Feathersanding

[red vette]

Feathersanding


I have 2004 torch red corvette convertible that I want to detail, I have been using NXT wax monthly since new in March, how does this regimen sound:

NXT wash
clay bar
NXT wash
#82 swirl free polish
#81 hand polish
NXT wax

The finish is in good shape with just some very slight swirls here and there.


Thanks in advance.

John
2004 torch red corvette convertible

[RDVT4ME]

A couple of suggestions.

If you do not have a Porter Cable DA buffer.....get one. It will make the job much easier. It's a pretty safe machine to use.

I use #83, #80 or #9 on my vette (it's a 2002 torch red coupe). Which one to use depends on how aggressive I need to be on the scratchs/swirls. Look at the aggressive scale on the bottle. Start with the least aggressive first, then go more aggressive if you need to.

If you have some deep scratches, the PC will not remove them. You will either need a rotary (be very careful here, proper training required) or use a product like ScratchX by hand.

The claybar will work magic on your car.....awesome stuff.

Use 2 coats of NXT wax. You will get better coverage and the second coat seems to really bring out the best in your paint.

Best of luck and enjoy!

[red vette]

Thanks Bob, no scratches (knock on wood) just slight swirls,i saw a thread by Mike P. where he stated that #9 was designed more for base coats and #82 was more for clear coats,I have all of the above plus some #81 hand polish until I get at least an orbital.

[RDVT4ME]

I use the #9 with a rotary and really like the shine and depth that it gives me. Sounds like you are fairly new to using a machine for buffing. Using the PC with #83 works really well for removing swirls. Keep an eye on this forum. There is talk of some Christmas special packages coming. Perhaps there will be a good package with the PC.

Save the wave!

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by red vette
Thanks Bob, no scratches (knock on wood) just slight swirls,i saw a thread by Mike P. where he stated that #9 was designed more for base coats and #82 was more for clear coats,I have all of the above plus some #81 hand polish until I get at least an orbital.

Hi red vette,

I'm not sure I ever posted the above, it could be what you read was that I wrote #7 Show Car Glaze, (A very popular pure polish), was formulated for single-stage paints, while the #9 was formulated at a time basecoat/clear coat finishes were being introduced and has been improved numerous times when technology improves.

For light swirls, I would highly recommend the dual action polisher as Bob is correct, it will not only take all of the work out detailing, it will also create the kind of show car result that your and alone cannot produce.

There are some holiday promotions in the works, I will be posting two of them today at 2:00pm

If you want to work on your car's finish by hand, the following Meguiar's philosophy of,

"Always use the least aggressive product to get the job done"

How to remove swirls by hand with ScratchX

I would suggest using a clean, foam applicator pad and polishing the paint with the #82 Swirl Free Polish. This is a very mild polish and is a lot more effective at actually removing swirls when machine applied. Another option would be to pick up a tube of ScratchX



and apply this to your finish. This is the product we use every Saturday to show people how to remove swirls by hand. Follow this with you #81 Hand Polish and the the Tech Wax and your results will be phenomenal.

Mike

[red vette]

thanks Mike,
My mistake,yes I have been using scratch X for awhile now on all my vehicles,not having any luck though removing a couple light scratches,cannot be felt with finger nail,but repeated tries with scratchX still has not removed them,any idea's?

John

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by red vette
thanks Mike,
My mistake,yes I have been using scratch X for awhile now on all my vehicles,not having any luck though removing a couple light scratches,cannot be felt with finger nail,but repeated tries with scratchX still has not removed them,any idea's?

John

Hi John,


If repeated applications of ScratchX is not removing the scratches in your finish, this tell me two things,

1. Your paint is very hard.
2. It will require a machine applied Professional Line product to remove the scratches.

The way I usually remove is with an advanced technique that I call Feathersanding, which requires the use of Meguiar's Unigrit Finishing Papers and a rotary buffer.



Experience helps a little too! Below are some pictures from a Side-by-side, before & after demonstration I did for the 2002 Bimmerfest in Santa Barbara. First I used a rotary buffer to buff out one half of the car and remove all of the light scratches. Next, I took little postage size stamps of Nikken Finishing Paper and sanded each individual scratch till it had been removed. Next, I used a compound to remove my sanding marks. The results were a scratch-free flawless finish on a 1991 e34 BMW M5.

How To Remove Random Isolated Deeper Scratches using the Feather Sanding Technique

Before



I compounded the entire finish before starting the below process to remove the shallow scratches and expose the deep scratches.


Process


























Random, Isolated, Deeper Scratches, (RIDS), can be removed, but it is an advanced technique that takes skill, patience and the right products to accomplish successfully. (A little luck helps too!)

Do you own a rotary buffer and do you know how to use it?

Mike

[Totoland Mach]

Great shots on the Bimmer Mike!!!!! I'm working on a horrible black 740iL that should be in the Swirl Hall O' Fame!

I finished removing the swirls from the plastic body panels last night and did one side of the sheet metal while it was on the lift.

Plastic will not take the heat of a rotary + cut pad + compound, so I use the Festool Rotex and switch between rotary and random orbital to remove the scratches after wet-sanding.

Here's the lower rocker panel before and "in-process"





Rear bumper with a little of everything thrown at me:



Rocker Panel Festooled



In Process shot of the plastic



Rear bumper: It's getting better, but I still have some gouging to fill with paint.



I've heard that I could use a lambs wool pad on a rotary because they operate cooler than foam, so I ordered a couple from Meguiar's to try.

Totoland Mach

[Mike Phillips]

Originally Posted by Totoland Mach

I've heard that I could use a lambs wool pad on a rotary because they operate cooler than foam, so I ordered a couple from Meguiar's to try.

Totoland Mach

Generally speaking, all things being equal, this would be true. Feel the panel as your working, let your sense of touch be your guide and don't let the panel get too hot.

Man... that paint job is rough!

[Totoland Mach]

Thanks for the info Mike. I do touch the plastic even with the Festool because of the heat. (BTW...their U.S. Headquarters is not too far from you folks...you should "evaluate" one of those machines..definitely a must-have with more and more painted plastic on cars these days).

You're right about the paint. Plus, it's soft on the sheet metal! I ended up using a glaze pad on the rotary with #83 to correct a lot of the paint. Your BMW scratches almost rival the ones I've got to correct LOL.

Here's a before and after of the hood



After



Update you soon with some after's when I do a final power wash to remove excess compound/glaze from body seams and apply #26.

Totoland Mach