Im currently waiting for spring time, so it gives me time to think of spring projects. My dad has a 1967 Chevelle, black paint that is ALL ORIGINAL from 1967 and its really nice. So i need some suggestions about how to start detailing. Last year I did one coat of nxt on it and once i completed it i was pleased but not satisfied. When i was wiping it off the paint was extremly dry as in the rag wouldnt slide nicely over it. So im guessing clay?? But this is all original paint from 67 and i dont wanna do nethin but it needs some good wax on it. and help
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Original 1967 Paint!!
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What condition is the paint in? Does it look thin in spots, cracked, oxidized, etc? Or still good shape, just dirty? Is there lots of swirls to fix, or again, just dirty?
I assume yo uare working by hand?
You will certainly be able to use mild products like Clay, DC#1, 2, and Nxt without any problem. ColorX is also very good for a little more cleaning and swirl removal than DC#1, and is easy to apply to a whole car. ScratchX can of course be used in spots, but ***** to do a whole car with.
Clay, then ColorX topped with Nxt/#21 is sweet for a quick touch up.
If it really needs work, you can use a PC, but would need to be carefull about raised areas, where paint might be getting thinner.2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue
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A very good point by KTruck...
If the paint seems dry, or if you just feel like it anyway, a thick coat or two of #7, left on overnight, can help start things off.
Apply it thick, then come back in the morning to buff off. Then move on with cleaning, polishing, and waxing.
I guess you could clay either before or after #7.2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue
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If that's the original paint, then it's 39 years old. Typically single stage black paint is one of the softest paints you'll ever work on because the pigment type is a soft substance as well as the resins or binders themselves.
So when you're working on it, be careful and mindful of any edges and high points. Take your time and focus on the task at hand.
Use the least aggressive product to get the job done. You might consider using Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner as your paint cleaner and apply it using one of our microfiber Even Coat Applicators or a foam applicator and take your time to work the product in and over the finish well.
How well you do the cleaning step will determine your end results, so spend your time upfront investing in the paint cleaning step.
The applications of #7 Show Car Glaze is to try to revitalize the paint before you work on it, typically older paints like this are much more porous or permeable than clear coated finishes and they tend to dry out and oxidize, even if they don't oxidize they can dry out and applying a pure polish like the #7 Show Car Glaze because it's very rich in Meguiar's trade secret polishing oils will be doing everything you can do in your power to give yourself and this paint the best chance of producing the best results possible.
Good luck and how about a photo of the finished results?
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The skills you learn from reading the below post and the included links will help you to add pictures to your messages on any forum.
How to put pictures into your posts
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Hi:
The #7 is a pure polish, no abrasive. It is not a LSP (wax) so it will not provide any protection.
The #7 should "feed" the paint by adding oils back to it and help revitalize it.
If it was me I would apply the #7 and then clay. That way you will be able to save as much of the existing paint as possible.
After you apply the #7, I would then determine what the next step should be.
Regards,
KTruckMake it Shine
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A full detail would look like this:
1. Wash
2. 1 or 2 thick coats of #7 worked in gently, and left over night. Then remove.
3. Clay
4. Clean - DC#1, etc.
5. Polish - #7 applied and wiped off as normal.
6. Wax - 2 thin coats of your favorite wax2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue
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Originally posted by Murr1525
A full detail would look like this:
1. Wash
2. 1 or 2 thick coats of #7 worked in gently, and left over night. Then remove.
3. Clay
4. Clean - DC#1, etc.
5. Polish - #7 applied and wiped off as normal.
6. Wax - 2 thin coats of your favorite wax
It's a plan for people that have something that is old, original as well as important to them, and want to do everything they can to save the paint that's still on the car and also to take it to its maximum potential.
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The #7 gets worked in and wiped off correct? and once both coats have been wiped off, you leave it overnight to cure right?
This system would prolly work for my nova too but that paint isnt real dry so the regular 5 step would work fine right? or could i substitute #7 for dc polish??If it aint BLING! it aint CLEAN!
1974 Chevy Nova- Novadizzle
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Originally posted by jumpmanmb87
The #7 gets worked in and wiped off correct? and once both coats have been wiped off, you leave it overnight to cure right?
Also, #7 doesn't really cure, in fact it will dry, but very slowly as it's very oily. The idea behind working in a coat of #7 to old, antique single stage paints is to revitalize the paint, to kind of condition it, (as much as can be done), before you start working on it.
This system would prolly work for my nova too but that paint isn't real dry so the regular 5 step would work fine right? or could i substitute #7 for dc polish??
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#7 and DC#2 are both pure polishes, and for regular use in the 5-step process, either one can be used. Or #5, #81 as well.
It is just Mike's #7 trick for old paint that needs the #7.
If it were me, I would just buy one polish, #7, and use it for both steps. I have enough Meguiar's bottles laying around already2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue
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