"Rail Dust" removal?

[gb387]

A guy at work asked me to remove some "rail dust" from his newish RX330. So I brought my PC and some Meguiars stuff to work with me and I was able to clean the sides of the car easily with some Deep Crystal Cleaner. But the back is aonther story it has a SEVERE case of "rail dust", will calying remove this? I have some #9 2.0 as well or will I need something stronger? I only trust myself with a PC is there something I can do with the tools I have?

[Totoland Mach]

Use the Meguiar's Clay Bar. The original idea for claying the car was to remove rail dust.

It's a pretty quick job...especially because the primary surfaces for rail dust accumulation are hood-roof-trunk.

See Ya From Toto Land

[FlaresideLariat]

I read up that rail dust, brake dust, and industrial fallout can cause paint contamination, and using a clay bar will remove it; it sort of ***** it out, I hear.

I am eager to try it, myself

[Mark McGuire]

I am no expert, but I have clayed three different vehicles. I believe it the single most important thing you can do to make your car or truck look the very best it will. I did my landloards truck this past weekend and you didn't have to feel it, you could see the contaminates. It is a 1986 chey farm truck. Here is a picture.

After I clayed it.






This was after using DC#1, Paint Cleaner. I have more pictures and I am planing on writing a makeover but haven't gotten around to it yet. Takes so long to upload pictures one at a time.
Anyway if your car has never been clayed do it, you won't regret it.

[Tim Lingor]

Hey,

Yes, I would suggest using Meguiar's Overspray Clay (C-2000)with lots of lube ( Meguiar's #34 Final Inspection) to remove the rail dust.


Tim

[soarer]

There are a few cutting powers, D6100- Mild clay and D6200 Aggressive clay. One of these should work for you. Remember to use the proper lubricant. The end result should feel smooth as glass!

[rusty bumper]

Originally posted by 2hotford
Hey,

Yes, I would suggest using Meguiar's Overspray Clay (C-2000)with lots of lube ( Meguiar's #34 Final Inspection) to remove the rail dust.


Tim

Tim, have you ever used FD for a clay lube?
***********************************************

The 1st time I ever used clay, I couldn't believe how slick it made the paint feel...I was never really able to equal that slick feeling with a PC.

[RamAirV1]

Clay is the absolute best method to remove rail dust! The Overspray Clay would be a good choice. I use the white OC, is that the more or less aggressive version?

Using a cleaner and a PC to remove rail dust should only be done if it it VERY light. Otherwise it won't work very well and you would have to use a rotary and you wind up removing quite a bit of paint.

If you can't find the Overspray Clay, go to Autozone or other auto parts store and get a Clay Magic bar (blue). It works very well and doesn't require large amounts of lube. It comes with a spray bottle of lube which works pretty good.

RamAirV1

[Tim Lingor]

Hey RB,

Yes, I have tried Final Detail for clay lube. But I prefer the #34 Final Inspection as I found the FD a little too slick/slippery when claying. I really try and feel what the clay is doing, and FD made the surface so slick, I could not do that. Just a personal preference!

However, as a QD, there is nothing better than FD to bring out that little extra from the finish!! Just IMHO!!

Tim

[FlaresideLariat]

Is there anything negative about the aggressive clay bar? (D6200)

[Rockpick]

Originally posted by FlaresideLariat
Is there anything negative about the aggressive clay bar? (D6200)

As is true with most things in life, it does have a negative side. For example, if you have only very minimal surface contamination problems and you utilize an aggressive bar (with not enough lubrication), you run the slight risk of causing additional scratching and other problems that you may have to deal with using additional products.

Another example would be using a compound to do the job that a light polish would handle (like using #84 when #9 would've worked). Obviously, the #84 being CONSIDERABLY more aggressive would potentially cause issues that you might then have to follow with #9 or something even more aggressive to remove something that would've been originally dealt with the #9.

Personally, I'd recommend going with the mild bar as I believe you'll find that it'll do a great job. Yes, you may have to go back over an 'ultra-tough' area once or twice but, in the end, it's ultimately a safer product to utilize in my opinion. It's what I use.

RP

[Jimmy Buffit]

It is important to realize that most IFO contaminants penetrate the clearcoat. Assuming that's the case, buffing tends to 'chop' off the protruding particles, leaving ferrous material in the CC. That is a great breeding ground for rust (yellow spots).

On the orher hand, clay actually pulls the particles out. Apart from some smearing, I can't think of a downside to using clay...

BTW, rookies should try a baggie, fingertips inserted, on a well lubricated surface. Try it b4 and after claying. You'll say "Wow!"

Jim

[rusty bumper]

Originally posted by 2hotford
Hey RB,

Yes, I have tried Final Detail for clay lube. But I prefer the #34 Final Inspection as I found the FD a little too slick/slippery when claying. I really try and feel what the clay is doing, and FD made the surface so slick, I could not do that. Just a personal preference!

However, as a QD, there is nothing better than FD to bring out that little extra from the finish!! Just IMHO!!

Tim

I agree, FD is a great QD. I used it as a clay lube, but it left some streaking on the paint....I guess it is a moot point though, since I always apply something (Cleaners, Polish, etc.) after claying anyway.

[FlaresideLariat]

Originally posted by Jimmy Buffit

BTW, rookies should try a baggie, fingertips inserted, on a well lubricated surface. Try it b4 and after claying. You'll say "Wow!"

Jim

I have done the baggie trick on a 99 Jeep, and it felt pretty pebbly on the hood, but not so much on the sides. I haven't yet tried the baggie trick on a never-clayed, never full-out detailed 93 Buick. It needs the extra oomph though