could someone expand on this

[Murr1525]

I havent seen many people using #3. Not sure why.

[SL1CK]

Originally posted by BlueTooth
I use scratchx but it doesnt seem to do anything, I apply it the same way as wax, is this a good way or bad... Ive heard that its hard to work in, and I was wondering if you could clear this up, when other guys say workin does this mean to really rub it in?

ScratchX is not like wax, where you apply, let dry, and take off. It is a substance that should be applied on an applicator pad and should be really worked in. By worked in I mean, as Mike puts it, "putting some passion behind the pad." Rub it in with a good amount of pressur. You must level out the clear coat to the deepest swirl mark to make them "disappear".

[Top Down]

(I put my mf towels in washing machine using warm water, no fabric softner, using a little bit of downy)

Isn't Downy a fabric softener? I'd use a laundry detergent instead to clean them. Chemicals from Downy will remain on your MF's and rub against the car.

With your question about a chart with a cutting scale, I think the reason there isn't one is because each product is made for different applications.
"quote from Mike"

This question comes up once in a while, everyone wants a simple way to know which products are the most aggressive to the least aggressive. There is no chart as some chemicals must be applied using a rotary buffer and on the extreme opposite side of the scale, some products are formulated for best results when applied by hand.

For example with a wool pad, M85 Diamond Cut Compound is more aggressive than ScratchX when applied with a rotary buffer. On the other hand, ScratchX is more effective for removing scratches by hand than Diamond Cut Compound would be by hand.

So its kind of hard to create a simple chart.
"end quote"

But one question tho, why make so many different polishes with no abrasives like #81, #5, adn #7... why not make a universal one, and whats the difference in those, since they seem to do the same job?

I have got one more question for you, can you apply a machine glaze by hand or do u have to apply it using a g-100

#7 is the oiliest and will give the most shine. #5 is meant for more humid areas. #3 is formualted for a machine so under heat and pressure from the rotary, the polish can still be worked in. If you tried using #7 with a rotary, it will usually gum up because of the heat. As you can see, each polish is meant for a different environment, application, etc. I rather have more options depending on my situation than a universal polish that will only perform well under certain conditions.

also I have this huge problem of using cleaner/polishes like #80 adn so on, my dad used to be an amature deatiler and he ended up losing his paint job on his truck back in the 70's because whenever he would wax he would take off paint, and he could see it on the rag , and my prob is that I like to apply #26, #7, and either GC or NXT everyday (also if the finish looks like it needs to be cleaned Ill use DC1), ( he tells me Im gonna rub the finish of my 2004 Red Ranger)and if I get a cleaner/polish I would want to use it everyday so this is why Im holding off on it.

Pure waxes are completely non-abrasive so it shouldn't remove any paint at all. It sounds like your dad might have used a cleaner wax on a single stage paint which will show up on the rag. All may not be lost for him though! Have you seen this thread?
1964 (Corrected) Red Mustang

Are you washing the car everyday as well if you're waxing everyday? If not, you're instilling swirls. Pure wax needs a completely prepped car to be effective. The reason why you're probably getting swirls is because of the prep part. Using the coin-op to soap and rinse a car won't wash your car, but will actually create a dirt film on the car. You need to use a wash mitt to pick up dirt off the car. When you use the Quick Detailer afterwards, you're instilling these swirls because you're moving this dirt film on the paint. Quick Detailer is only meant for light dust, recent water spots or bird droppings. It doesn't have enough lubrication to wash dirt that has gotten wet.
Going back to the cleaner/polishes, it might be that you're confusing the wash step with clean step. When you do the clean step, you're removing oxidation, swirls, etc. After you do this, there's no need to do it again until you somehow get more swirls, oxidation etc. or when you do your next full detail to properly prep your car. There's definitely no need to do it everyday. Even if you did, since you're working by hand, using DC1 everyday won't remove that much paint so no worries about removing your paint job. It's just a little overboard and unneccesary.

Meguiar's 5-step Paint Care Cycle

Out of all the steps, you should be doing washing the most. Without properly washing, you risk every other step.
Sorry for such a long post, and good luck!

[BlueTooth]

sorry I mean to say laugry detergent instead.. but you get the idea thanks for all this awesome info it really cleard some confusion up for me.