Getting that "WET" look

[california legend]

I have used Polish #7, and NTX Tech wax and my car looks great. But, I want that new car "Wet" look that you see on newer cars. I thought my car looked wet after I detailed my car, but I was in the parking lot yesterday and parked next to a 2005 Black Mercedes, and it looked as wet as oil. My car is a dark blue and I want it to look as wet as the ocean. How can this be achieved?

[SiriusRIMZ]

Lots of differnt factors here... Lets start with the basics.

-How old is your car? Older cars need differnt treatment.

-Does your car's finish have swirls, cobwebbing, or oxidation?

-Do you have items like #80 or Scratch-X at your disposal, and what Items are you using?

[Murr1525]

Are you working by hand? You can improve your results some by using a machine like the G-100, but without that, you can still do good things.

It doesnt sound like you used any clay or paint cleaner? You will definately want to use those as well. 90% of the wet look is prep work, not the wax or polish.

As SiriusRIMZ said, what condition is your car in now?

[california legend]

My paint is in good condition. My paint is a 4 coat/ 4 bake process. I clayed the car, used scratch x to reduce swirls, polished with #7, then 2 coats of NXT Tech wax.
Like I said, it looks great after the detail but noticed that it wasn't as wet looking as a new car. Reflection is awesome, check out the photo. That reflection is off the top of my car.

All that is missing is the "wet" like oil look. I don't have a DA so hand detail is what I can do.

[WaspHunter]

From that picture it looks like there are still a few oxidation spots that could be reducing the 'wet' look you're going for. Is it a metallic paint or pure gloss? To get the ocean wet look with pure gloss you're looking for you really need to prep the car as Murr said, to the point where those dots in your reflection shot no longer appear.

[Mike Phillips]

To get a wet-look you need to focus on getting the paint as smooth and clean as possible, it sounds like you've already done this to the degree that you can with what you have to work with.

If you're serious about polishing the paint on your car and getting the wet look, then should strongly consider getting a dual action polisher like our G100. Your hands will never be able to create the same high quality level of finish that a machine can achieve.

In the almost 3 years I've been teaching the classes here at Meguiar's on Saturday's I've seen a lot of people come and go and out of these people there's always the group that starts out thinking working by hand is the best way to go and the only way to work.... until they see the demonstrations... Then they all want to move up to machine polishing.

[california legend]

My paint is Metallic and those white spots are the reflection of the metalic sparkles from the reflection of sunlight, not oxidation.

As far as the Dual Action, I understand it can work better than by hand, but not all of us want to throw down another $300.00+ bucks on Equipment and more supplies.

For that price, we, the regular consumers, might as well hire a professional to do the job.

[35th Anniversary SS]

Before getting discouraged about price... you can get the G100 DA and a couple pads for almost half of that $300.

Check with ADS. Autodetailingsolutions.

For the look youre trying to acheive you most deffinately want the DA.

[Kman]

When you say "wet" look, do you mean like this (sorry about the cam phone pic)?




I used to use NXT Paste Wax, but I found that Deep Crystal Polish followed up with #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax gave me the look I was looking for.

Maybe try DCP followed up with #26?

[Kickin Griffin]

If you want to work by hand on that colour, I would go for the #7 that you are using (glaze, packed full of oils for that wet look shine) and top it with #26 wax as I find this compliments the #7 better than the NXT and lasts much longer too...

Also, one trick I use to enhance the shine with the final wax coat is to "spit-shine" the wax - the technique is the same principle as spit-shining your boots. Works with paste waxes (I use it for #16, Nattys, P21S, Souveran, Signature etc...). Apply a layer of the wax to the car but do not buff off the residue, just let it dry to a haze. The spray a light misting of a quick detailer spray over the top - Meguiars Last Touch work really well for this. Now apply a second coat of wax over the sprayed QD, working in circular motions until the QD droplets disappear and you just have the wax haze as normal. Allow to dry to a haze, and buff away the residue. Gives a little extra wettness and reflection for me. Thats my technique for #16, cannot see any reason why this wouldn't also work for #26 paste.

If you choose to go down the G100 route (I know its a lot of cash, but since getting mine I've never looked back and you can use it for applying waxes and sealents in double quick time as well as defect removal...) then I would either go for the #7 applied using a finishing pad (Meguiars W9006 Tan pad) and follow with #26 paste. I find the G100 works the oils of the #7 into the paint better. Or - you could try a 50/50 mix of #80 and #7, applied using a light polishing pad (Megs W8006 Yellow). This is what I use as a finishing polish, it takes a little of the aggressiveness of using #80 alone away (its a light polish anyway) and adds extra glazing oils to it for an even wetter finish. Then top with #26.

[1st Gen Camaro]

How's this for wet look?

Here's my 67 Yenko Camaro. Hand polished.

[jfelbab]

I use that combo, #7 followed by NXT (x2) and it gives a pretty wet look. I start with a wash, clay , #80 with a PC, #7, and NXT. Solid colors look wetter than metallics, IMO.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by California legend

As far as the Dual Action, I understand it can work better than by hand, but not all of us want to throw down another $300.00+ bucks on Equipment and more supplies.

I've never met anyone that regretted getting into machine polishing because it gave them dramatically better results and it did it easier and faster than they could do it by hand. A lot of guys that come to our Saturday classes invest in the tool and the products, then the detail their car and a friend or relatives car and before they know it they have people asking them to detail their cars and after a couple of detail jobs they recoup all their investment.

Just another way of looking at it.

For that price, we, the regular consumers, might as well hire a professional to do the job.

Read the forum long enough and you'll find that some of the worst swirled out messes are caused by detailers. Anyone that attends one of Meguiar's Saturday detailing classes, if they pay attention, will know more than most detailers and will be able to turn out better work right off the bat.

The problem with a lot of detailers is they either don't use quality products and pads, or the company they work for doesn't supply them with quality products and pads, often times they are self-taught and that's not always a bad thing but it helps to get some information from someone and Meguiar's has been doing this for a long time.

[SOLDSHORT]

#80 speed glaze
NXT

using the G-100

[matt colvin]

Re: How's this for wet look?

Originally posted by 1st Gen Camaro
Here's my 67 Yenko Camaro. Hand polished.

Wow, that's a great Camaro. Is it a replica or the real thing??? We'd love to see some more pics!!!