Micro-marring

[skitelluride531@cubs]

I have been using my PC for about 8 months now. I got pretty good results when I started using Meguiars. However, recently, after making a few passes with #80 on a #8006 pad I have noticed that there is almost always some micro-marring. Yesterday, I did a test with a brand new pad, and I still noticed the micro-marring.

I am reluctant to blame this on my PC (the one not branded by Meguiars). However, I have been having to use it on speed 6 because when I use it on speed 5, it will not spin if I apply even a little pressure. I am curious, by using the PC on speed 6, could I be causing the micro-marring?

[Mike Phillips]

As to the micro-marring...

Are you removing the deeper defects that you don't want to see in the finish?


As to the rotating of the pad... There is so much information in a forum we call, Hot Topics, here's page 3 of a related topic. I wrote a rather lengthy, but hopefully you'll agree a well thought out explanation of reality on this page.

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12056&perpage=10&pagenumber=3

[Mike Phillips]

Just to note...

Some paint systems are more susceptible to micro-marring than others. In these cases you might want to try a less aggressive product like either M82 or M09, or even M66 for a follow-up pass.

Meguiar's never recommends using anything past the 5.0 setting on the PC but it has more to do with the heat generated by the motor causing the Velcro to de-laminate from the backing plate and the foam.

[RedSoxRacer]

What do you mean by "a few passes?"
Do you mean you worked the product until it was broken down completely, wiped the area clean, and then did the process over? Or do you mean you went back and forth a few times and then wiped the product off?
There are a lot of other variables as well.

[skitelluride531@cubs]

Originally posted by Mike Phillips
Just to note...

Some paint systems are more susceptible to micro-marring than others. In these cases you might want to try a less aggressive product like either M82 or M09, or even M66 for a follow-up pass.

Meguiar's never recommends using anything past the 5.0 setting on the PC but it has more to do with the heat generated by the motor causing the Velcro to de-laminate from the backing plate and the foam.

Thanks for the quick reply! Maybe I need to buy some M66 or M82 and give it a shot.

Also, so using the 6.0 setting could have no negative effect on the paint? I am aware of the risk with the velcro.

Originally posted by RedSoxRacer
What do you mean by "a few passes?"
Do you mean you worked the product until it was broken down completely, wiped the area clean, and then did the process over? Or do you mean you went back and forth a few times and then wiped the product off?
There are a lot of other variables as well.

My process usually is work in the product fully with one application, and then wipe the product off. I am going to try going back over the same area again and see if that helps at all.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by RedSoxRacer
What do you mean by "a few passes?"

Good point to bring out,

You need to work products with diminishing abrasives long enough to break the diminishing abrasives all the way down but not so long that you go to a dry buff or see the product dusting.

Next question most people have is...

"how long do I buff the product to be sure all the diminishing abrasives have broken down"

There is not pat answer, this comes from experience from working with the product, but with M80 because it's a fairly wet product you have a lot of play time and as long as you don't buff to a dry buff you can usually buff longer than most people thing.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by skitelluride531@cubs
Thanks for the quick reply! Maybe I need to buy some M66 or M82 and give it a shot.

For scratch-sensitive paints, M66 or ColorX works pretty good but part of what it may be doing is filling in the micro-marring hard to check unless you do a chemical wipe, but if your paint is senstive to micro-marring sometimes this is the only/best option. This is a problem with the paint type, not any one companies products because if the problem is defects in the paint then you're going to have to use something to abrade or clean the paint in order to remove them and while you may remove deeper defects you may leave behind very fine defects but at least you can live with the fine defects.

Does that make any sense at all?

Also, so using the 6.0 setting could have no negative effect on the paint?

I'm not aware that Meguiar's has an official position on this aspect, for what it's worth, my own experience shows the higher speeds with a PC can be an influence for causing micro-marring on some paint types.

My process usually is work in the product fully with one application, and then wipe the product off.

This would be correct technique.

I am going to try going back over the same area again and see if that helps at all.

Try lifting up on the polisher, that is using less pressure for your final passes, or cover passes.

Clean your pad first. Don't use a brand new pad for cover passes, you want a pad that is broke-in, but you do want to use a clean, broke-in pad.

OctaneGuy aka Richard Lin was working on a G35 yesterday with this same problem, maybe we can get him to chime in...

[rfinkle2]

another technique that you might try... take a microfiber bonnet and your least aggressive polish to the micromarring.

I've found that the mf clears things up really well.

[skitelluride531@cubs]

Well, I finally got a chance to try some new stuff out. I first started with #80. The micro-marring occured as I expected. I followed with #66 . It didn't do anything. I followed that with #9, which also did nothing. Finally, I tried #82, which did nothnig as well. So, the verdict is, no swirls but very fine micro-marring as before. I am pretty disapointed. I guess I am going to have to end up living with the fine micro-marring in my paint.