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What is the best way to apply #7 to my car?
I have a rotary ,G-100 and two strong hands (
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I have a rotary ,G-100 and two strong hands (
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Detailing cars is a form of art. Most appreciate it, few possess the required skill and even fewer understand it. -
Re: #7
Application by either G-100 or hand would be fine. I prefer to use the G-100, as it lays down an even, consistent coat that gives the best result.
For buffing off, I use a microfiber bonnet on a burgandy cutting pad. This is excellent for reducing the amount of fatigue on your arms!Jeff -
Re: #7
#7 is one of the few Meg. products I use the "two strong hand" method with. I think it does a better job getting in all the nooks and crannies better!Comment
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Re: #7
I use my PC with a Finishing Pad to apply and a Supreme Microfiber to remove. I'm sure hand application would be fine as long as you apply a nice thin coat. Yoy don't really need to work it in. I've never used a rotary so I don't know about it.Comment
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Re: #7
I like to use the rotary also...definitely a more even and thorogh application of the product. I like to remove it with a wool bonnet...light pressure followed by microfiber towels. Seems to leave a very high luster.
Good luck.Thanks,
BradComment
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Re: #7
Do you have any pictures of your car in direct sunlight? It seems your method would induce huge amounts of marring into the paints surface...Originally posted by Bad Brad777 View PostLet's make all of the cars shiny!Comment
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Re: #7
can i do the hole car,or panel by panel before i remove it ?Detailing cars is a form of art. Most appreciate it, few possess the required skill and even fewer understand it.Comment
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Re: #7
When I called and talked to a customer service rep, they advised me to apply #7 in sections, 2' x 2' area for example. If I remember correctly, #7 should be removed before it dries otherwise it gets very difficult to remove. I haven't used it yet but that was the Rx I got over the phone.Originally posted by Arne View PostComment
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Re: #7
I apply to a panel at a time with a PC but my experience with #7 is that it really doesn't dry very quickly. You could do the whole car at one time, providing it's not in the sun and the paint is cool. #7 skins over but doesn't dry like a wax. Mike P has a nice article here somewhere about how to remove this by hand using a cotton towel to cut the skin and remove the excess glaze and then follow with a clean cotton towel or MF to remove the rest. I've also found that it is not really necessary to get it all off as your LSP will take care of any excess you may have missed.Jim
My Gallery Comment
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Re: #7
tnx for all the usefull info guys
Detailing cars is a form of art. Most appreciate it, few possess the required skill and even fewer understand it.Comment
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Re: #7
Here's the method I was taught at a Meguiar's Wednesday Night Open Garage:
Using a foam High Tech Applicator Pad work #7 gently into the finish over a 2'x2' section until you feel the pad start to drag as #7 starts to set up. Stop! Now gently go over the area with a clean microfiber to first break down the product (don't try to remove it all on the first pass), then go over it again and gently buff the area. No need to continually buff and rub, just remove the product. Now move on to the next 2'x2' section and repeat until the entire car is done. This has proven to be a very simple process requiring no real elbow grease or sweat. Very simple, very straightforward, and the results are beautiful.Michael Stoops
Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.
Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.
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Re: #7
I haven't had any problems with marring. Hold the bonnet flat against the surface and move along at a speed where it can just barely spin freely. Don't try to remove all the polish with the rotary...leave that to microfiber towels. Also, make sure the bonnet is freshly clean...maybe even a bit damp.
Works great on my dark blue Honda Accord. If it were to show marring, it definitely would on this car.
BradThanks,
BradComment
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