#26 vs Gold Class wax

[ktlimq]

Pros and cons of #26 and Gold Class liquid waxes?

I found posts asking about "NXT vs Gold Class", but not "#26 vs Gold Class". Both #26 and Gold Class are available locally (AutoZone and Pepboys).

application, drying, and removal characteristic (by hand)
cleaning ability (I know these are not cleaner waxes but . . .)
trim staining
protection and durability
usability at low temperature
.
.
.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: #26 vs Gold Class wax

Pros and cons of #26 and Gold Class liquid waxes?

application, drying, and removal characteristic (by hand)
cleaning ability (I know these are not cleaner waxes but . . .)
trim staining
protection and durability
usability at low temperature

application, drying, and removal characteristic (by hand)
As long as you apply correctly, i.e. thin coats, these should be very similar.

cleaning ability (I know these are not cleaner waxes but . . .)
M26 is a pure wax, no cleaners, Gold Class is a polish/wax and offers only light cleaning ability

trim staining
M26 dries more or less clear, that just means you can't see it to wipe it off Gold Class will stain if you get it on trim and leave it there to dry, so whenever you're applying wax, take your time and don't run the wax applicator pad over trim or tape the trim off before hand.

protection and durability
Since M26 is a pure wax, i.e. all protection ingredients, and Gold Class is a polish/wax, protection ingredients plus other ingredients, common sense would tell you that the edge for protection should go to M26

If you're applying your wax 2, 3, 4 times a year it shouldn't matter.

Remember,

Anything that comes into contact wtih your car's paint that's strong enough to etch or destroy the paint itsel, (a thick hard substance as compared to a coat of thin wax), is certainly strong enough to obliterate a micron thin coating of wax.


usability at low temperature


4. What temperature ranges are best for applying cleaners, polishes, and waxes degrees

When we talk about surface temperatures, we need to consider three factors:

• Surface Temperature
• Ambient Temperature
• Relative Humidity
• Surface Temperature (Actual surface temperature of the vehicle)

The best surface temperature range for applying cleaners, polishes, and protectants is approximately 60 degrees to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. More importantly, the surface does not feel warm or hot to the touch.

Basically, when you're working within this temperature range, it's not too cold, and it's not too warm to realize exceptional results from just about any Meguiar's product.

Meguiar's products will work easily within a much broader temperature range, such as, 50 degrees to 90 degrees Fahrenheit, but guaranteed best results will be achieved in the 60 degrees to 80 degrees range.

Ambient Temperature (Outside temperature)
Ambient temperature is the room temperature or the temperature of the surrounding environment. It's easily possible to have between 10 to 50 degrees difference in ambient temperature compared to surface temperature. This can make the difference between a product that's easy to work with, or hard to work with. Keep in mind, the hotter the ambient temperature, the quicker products will dry.

Humidity (Moisture in the air)
Simply put, humidity is moisture in the air. Technically there is Relative Humidity and Absolute Humidity, but as it relates to:

• Applying
• Working with
• Curing, drying, hazing
• Wipe-off or removal of car care products.

The simple explanation of moisture in the air, or more specifically, the amount of moisture in the air is the major factor, which will affect how easily or potentially difficult a product will be to work with, or a procedure will be to perform.

Low humidity, in warm to hot temperatures, will act to cause liquids to evaporate and dry more quickly. This can make a product difficult to work with or decrease the amount of time the product remains easily workable on the surface.

High humidity in cold temperatures can make products hard to work because it can dramatically increase the amount of time necessary for the product to cure, dry or haze (depending on which product you're using).

Low humidity in low temperatures tends not to be a factor in working with, cure times, and when applying and in the removal of cleaners, polishes, and protectants (Low temperatures are a factor, but not low humidity in low temperatures).

High humidity in high temperatures tends not to be a factor in working with, cure times, and when applying and in the removal of cleaners, polishes, and protectants (High temperatures are a factor, but not high humidity in high temperatures)

Extreme temperatures, both cold and hot will make any product more difficult to work with.

Direct sunlight
Direct sunlight will dramatically increase the surface temperature compared to ambient temperatures and make cleaners, polishes and protectants extremely more difficult to apply, work and remove.

Air current/Wind
Air current/air flow, or windy conditions will act to increase the evaporation speed and potentially making some products more difficult to apply, work, or remove. In some cases this can be a bonus, helping a wax to cure/dry more quickly.

Summary
The best conditions for using cleaners, polishes and protectants on automotive paints would be in a cool place, out of direct sunlight, in a surface temperature range between 60 degrees and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, with comfortable to low humidity, with a light breeze to create the perfect conditions for detailing your car's finish.

Common sense and a good rule-of-thumb is to avoid applying any product if the surface is too warm to touch with the palm of your hand comfortably.

50 degrees Fahrenheit = 10.0 degrees Celsius
90 degrees Fahrenheit = 32.2 degrees Celsius

[ktlimq]

Re: #26 vs Gold Class wax

Thanks for the helpful reply.

I have a #26 bottle, and still have a question.

I see the following differences in the directions.

On #26 bottle: apply to "one section at a time"
On Gold Class: apply to "the entire vehicle".

On #26 bottle: allow the product "to dry to a haze"
On Gold Class: allow the product "to dry"

So, when I use #26, I do not need to wait 10~15 minutes before removing, right?
Or should I even avoid waiting 10~15 minutes, because the carnauba wax will become very difficult to remove if left so long?

Some non-Meguiars waxes that have the "one section at a time" instruction are supposed to be removed after 1~2 minutes, according to the manufacturers.

[Jeepster04]

Re: #26 vs Gold Class wax

I apply #26 to my entire jeep when take it off. Ive never had a problem doing this.

[Blaze]

Re: #26 vs Gold Class wax

I also applied the #26 all the way around before removing it, and it was fine. =)

[skyline315]

Re: #26 vs Gold Class wax

Mike (or anyone else)...

You mentioned that Gold Class Wax will stain the trim. I, unfortuntely, had already learned that the hard way. What's the best way to remove the stains?

[Mike Phillips]

Re: #26 vs Gold Class wax

Mike (or anyone else)...

You mentioned that Gold Class Wax will stain the trim. I, unfortuntely, had already learned that the hard way. What's the best way to remove the stains?

Meguiar's M39 and a tooth brush, apply, aggitate and wipe off. Then apply a dressing.