M105 - Correct Process How To

[Ivan Rajic]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

I think I gotcha now.

Please don't take offense or think I'm nit-picking...
I truly just want to help & inform!
I think you mean that M105 is quick to complete the defect-removal portion of the job?

AND!- That M105 seems to have a short working-cycle.

Meaning, "I apply it, then it cuts, then not much changes after a few seconds, so it must be time to stop, or add more product, or wipe it away..."

I use a rotary polisher (as recommended by Meguiar's), as well as a random-orbital polisher (NOT recommended by Meguiar's).
I've also used it with a forced-rotation machine (Flex 3401VRG).

Are you using it with a rotary and a wool pad?
If so, your best bet is to fully prime the pad using the M105 by rubbing some into the pad with your hands.
Make sure it feels moist throughout- Not sloppy, but a bit more than you might normally use.

Next, apply a bead of product directly onto the surface you wish to polish.
Polish until it seems that the paint is not reacting to the buffing anymore.

At that point, clean the pad with a spur and/or forced-air.
Forced-air (compressed air) is by far the best method.
I think what sometimes happens with M105 is...
The moisture-depleted abrasive-residue that has not dusted away, cakes upon the surface of the buffing pad (I think!).
Without moisture supplied via the carrier/lubricant, the abrasive cannot properly transfer to the surface.
Unless you add downforce, it won't polish much.

By thoroughly cleaning the pad, the fibers of the pad loosen and separate, helping to remove the stuck-on (and stuck-together) abrasive remnants.

After cleaning, re-apply as normal and continue polishing.
Once the pad is fully primed, you should see increased working-time.

M105 is a very unique and high-end product...
In most cases, proper use demands that you keep the pad very clean & apply less product per cycle.

Once you're done with the defect-removal portion of your polish job, use a minimum amount of product to get the best finishing results.
Sometimes I just clean the pad THOROUGHLY, drop the speed WAY down (1000 rpm on my DeWalt), and apply consistent, firm pressure to the machine.

Hope this helps.

Kevin, no offense taken and what you posted helps a lot. Also, what you said is exactly what I meant by "break down"...

I guess you could say I haven't worked with 105 enough to use it properly, or perfectly... I think I might need to prime the pad a bit more before using it...

I've used it mainly with the LC purple foamed wool pad and tried it briefly with a foam pad, but, as I mentioned above, I need to do a lot more polishing with it to actually figure out how it works best and to properly use it.

[Tim Lingor]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

I have asked whether M105 would result in 'lots' when being under-applied because I have seen comments 'dusts like crazy' or similar very often and pattern of usage I see is that majority of people might be under-applying, not over-applying. I am concluding they might be under-applying based on perpertul comments/advices to use just few drops, it is very rare to see advice or comment that pad has been primed with water/QD, and that it has been primed with polish, and that bead has been picked up.

So, if pad has not been primed and/or M105 has been under-applied would that result in 'dusts like crazy'?

Also, any thoughts on comment "If people are seeing it flash quickly and there is dusting they are using it correctly."?

Hey,

The only time I have had it dust was when I used it with either the DA or foam pads. With the rotary and wool pads as recommended I get very little dust. But use it with a DA and a polishing pad and it is very dusty. Therefore, this is one of those times where following the manufacturers advice is very important!

Tim

[ZoranC]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

The only time I have had it dust was when I used it with either the DA or foam pads. With the rotary and wool pads as recommended I get very little dust. But use it with a DA and a polishing pad and it is very dusty. Therefore, this is one of those times where following the manufacturers advice is very important!

That has been my conclusion too from everything I have been observing. Thank you, Tim!

[ZoranC]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

I've used it mainly with the LC purple foamed wool pad and tried it briefly with a foam pad, but, as I mentioned above, I need to do a lot more polishing with it to actually figure out how it works best and to properly use it.

One of advertised features of LC foamed wool pads is that it allegedly "creates tiny air pockets at the base of the wool fibers. This is essentially trapped air that improves the cushioning provided by the pad and the retention of compounds and polishes. Just like the cells of foam absorb products, these minute air pockets retain products so none is wasted."

I do not know does this in any way relate to some people's experiences with M105 and LC foamed wool but is something to keep in mind when analyzing.

Kevin, I have some LC foamed wool pads at home so if you want I can give you one next time I see you for you to experiment with.

[ZoranC]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

No official word by Meguiar's?

[Mike Phillips]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

No official word by Meguiar's?

As far as I know we don't have an official how-to article for using this product but we can probably put one together.

As for all the confusion and mis-information on other forums that's always going to be a problem, remember seeing one guy say he was having problems and the first thing he did was start mixing some other companies product into M105 to try to make 'new' product.

He could have registered here and posted his experience and obtained an answer with help to his issues but instead decided to be his own chemist.

Kind of hard to stop that kind of thing on other forums.


I personally haven't had any dusting problems with the product using it with a wool pad on a rotary buffer, it does have a long play time in that the abrasives don't really break down so as long as you have product on the surface you have cutting power.

With a diminishing abrasive you can still have a film on the surface but if the diminishing abrasives have already broken down you no longer have cutting power.

Let see what we can come up with... maybe this Thursday before "Open Garage" I can work with Mike or Jason on this.

[ZoranC]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

Kind of hard to stop that kind of thing on other forums.

Of course, such stuff will never stop and can not be stopped, part of human nature, but having something official would at least help clarify things for those that are willing to listen and think with their own brain, plus it would be in best interest of Meguiar's because one would be able to at least point to it and say "we told you so, so it is not the product, it is the user".

Thank you in advance!

P.S. Did I ever claim that "patience" is my middle name?

[Kevin Brown]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

Kevin, I have some LC foamed wool pads at home so if you want I can give you one next time I see you for you to experiment with.

You know me- I'll give it a shot!

Zoran and I spent time together at Alpine Electronics last week...
I was working on a Bee-U-ti-ful Volkswagen for Alpine's Gary Bell.
Zoran stopped by to pick up some 3" Mirka goods, and decided to hang out for awhile...

I put the M105 through its paces on a newer single-stage paint job...
A 3 p.m. til' 3 a.m. polish-session took place.
As expected- The bug turned out KILLER!
M105 in tha' house, BABY!

Probably not the place to mention this, but where is?

I'd like you all to know that you will not find a nicer guy than Zoran.
He does tend to write in a manner that comes across as direct, without fluff.
Fact is- He did not grow up in this country, so he writes similar to the way he speaks.
One thing is certain- Zoran REALLY digs this stuff, and is very interested in learning every little nuance about our industry.
Sooo- If he comes across as a bit brash... It's been my experience that he is anything but.

Zoran is a guy trying to learn AND teach...
I'll always be happy to spend time with a guy that wants to educate and better himself in the realm we all love so much.

[ZoranC]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

You know me- I'll give it a shot!

... that's why I already put it in the bag without waiting for an answer

Zoran and I spent time together at Alpine Electronics last week... I was working on a Bee-U-ti-ful Volkswagen for Alpine's Gary Bell. Zoran stopped by to pick up some 3" Mirka goods, and decided to hang out for awhile...

Thank you and Gary for the opportunity to hang out and play the "supervisor" Just watching expert at work was very valuable learning experience.

Probably not the place to mention this, but where is? ...

Thank you for the kind words In all fairness I do have to admit that my habit of saying what I think all of the time means I don't shy from saying what is on my mind and ...



... even when I know that will not bring me Mr Congeniality.

Thank you once again, I am looking forward to opportunity for another hangout

(first person that posts "you guys get a room" gets it with a bottle of M105 ... j/k you are not getting hold of my M105 that easy)

[Totoland Mach]

Re: M105 - Correct Process How To

Thanks for this informative post! I have a gallon of M105 and haven't been using it correctly. It's been caking on the wool pads and I got frustrated with using it. The shop keeps a supply of 3M Extra Cut, but I dislike the a) smell and b) the super gritty dusting that always requires a power wash after compounding the BMW's.

Typically, I compound an area until clear so I can see my results before moving on. To me there is nothing worse than going back on a panel after you've compounded, washed, and polished the vehicle.

I've written down some of the points I've learned and will try the product again on the next Bimmer.

Toto