How to clean out emblems/nooks/crannies

[VonLego]

It seems to me anyone with good intentions and a solid work ethic and produce a dazzling shine on a hood and most other panels, but it seems the difference between professional and good (a good job, or a job done) is getting the details done right.

I want folks to be able to look at emblems, behind emblems, under headlights, and in door wells. I want them to see shinies, and sure as heck no dirt or (worse!) wax. I couldn't imagine something less professional than leaving dirt or wax stuck in the corners or behind emblems. Taping off is one option, but that doesn't get dirt out in the first place.

What about the top of doors where it meets the rubber molding of the windows? No matter what it always seems to turn my microfibers black.

Is there a detail kit that can be purchased, stuffed full of high quality instruments? I have a handful of Fred Meyer style brushes, but I wouldn't trust most of them to paint.


[I'm trying to become comfortable with the idea of charging folks for detailing... but I will not do so without utmost confidence that I can do a professional job.]

[RogueGypsy]

Re: How to clean out emblems/nooks/crannies

I'm not a pro by any means, but I agree with your idea of 'detail' done right.

I wash and hand wax all the paint around door jambs, inside trunks, hoods, gas doors, any where there is paint. I even wash and wax the pillars inside where there is paint.

Emblems I use metal polish or wax (which ever is appropriate) with a Q-tip to get into all the small spaces.

When all is done any I clean out any creases, cracks or gaps I can't get to by opening something with a soft tooth brush or similar device. A light touch will remove any dried wax without leaving scratches.

I've also found that cleaner wax works great in those hard to reach places like body panel gaps around trim, bumpers and lights. I use a small folded (so it's tight in the gap) microfiber with a cleaner wax and work it until it is clear. I've found by doing these gaps and crevasses first, any wax from the body that gets in there comes off really easy. Same thing for plastic and rubber trim. By cleaning and treating them first, any sling comes off really easy.

[VonLego]

Re: How to clean out emblems/nooks/crannies

cleaner wax around emblems and in tight spots? Do you typically use your other cleaners on them at all? I've always been scared to tape off too much because I'm not sure how to get the edges that are taped.

Lets say you have a severely swirled car, tape up, then buff out. How do you get those edges? Just have to do it by hand? (Shouldn't be to hard, 105 is cake by hand)

[Jimmy Buffit]

Re: How to clean out emblems/nooks/crannies

A pro grade steamer makes emblems a non issue. Clean b4 wax/sealant.

BTW, on most Mercedes that circled star on the rear deck usually pulls off easily, and snaps right back. Who knew?

As always, don't force it...

Jim

[sudsbyhubbs]

Re: How to clean out emblems/nooks/crannies

how does the steamer make it a non-issue?

[miahjohn]

Re: How to clean out emblems/nooks/crannies

buy some zepelume for those hard to reach parts..emblems door jambs moldings

[VonLego]

Re: How to clean out emblems/nooks/crannies

Really looking for a kit or tools to help scrape behind or reach behind some of this stuff. I'm not looking for chemicals per say. I couldn't figure out what that stuff is, but it sounds like some aluminum cleaner.

[miahjohn]

Re: How to clean out emblems/nooks/crannies

it is "alumininum brightener" made by ZEP. works really well, not sure if meguiars makes a similar product or not. works great on wheels too.

[VonLego]

Re: How to clean out emblems/nooks/crannies

Again, not looking so much for a chemical, more a tool kit. Something with some durability to scrape out from behind emblems without scratching paint. Perhaps a razor blade... but that scares me.

[yalerd]

Re: How to clean out emblems/nooks/crannies

A very gentle brush and a mist and wipe product like Last Touch/Quik Detailer could help getting those surroundings nice and clean

[RogueGypsy]

Re: How to clean out emblems/nooks/crannies

cleaner wax around emblems and in tight spots? Do you typically use your other cleaners on them at all? I've always been scared to tape off too much because I'm not sure how to get the edges that are taped.

Lets say you have a severely swirled car, tape up, then buff out. How do you get those edges? Just have to do it by hand? (Shouldn't be to hard, 105 is cake by hand)

Sorry for the late reply.........

I don't usually use the cleaner wax around emblems. I'll use what ever product I'm using on the rest of the body panels, but I get into the tight spots with a Q-Tip or small piece of foam pad by hand. If it's really tight around the emblem (tight curves or small 3-D print) I use M-135 on a Q-tip. The emblems themselves are usually metal, so I use metal polish on them. Sometimes with a Q-tip.

The cleaner wax I use more for inside door jambs, around the door itself, trunk and hood edges, and the small gaps in body panels around lights, trim, bumpers...etc. The hard to polish surfaces that always seem to catch and hold wax when doing a body panel (the same places most people tape off to prevent wax from getting built up in).

As far as a tool kit goes, I use:

-Plastic razorblades.
-Q-Tips (a lot of them).
-Small folded pieces of Micro Fiber.
-Small pieces of foam applicator pads.
-Tooth brush (to remove dried wax from crevices if microfiber won't fit)
-Bamboo skewers (the ones for making shish kabob, the tip fits into very tight spots with ease. Tooth picks work too, but aren't as strong).
-1" foam paint brushes (to apply dressings in tight spots).
-Felt cones and wheels for a Dremel tool (for badly stained metal in tough spots).
-Quart size pump chemical sprayer with a brass nozzle (easier to control the spray in tight spots, than a regular spray bottle. I use it in large tight spots like fire walls and under wheel wells)

And my final secret weapon for making hard to reach or tight places shiny, when nothing else will work. I'm almost embarrassed to say it................................Turtle wax Ice Liquid. Yeah, I know, It's not great stuff. But I had to try it, so now I have a bottle of it I'm trying to use up. Since it doesn't leave any white chalky residue when it dries, it works pretty well in tight spots where nothing else does. I consider it a thick spray detailer.

I have several other miscellaneous brushes, erasers and plastic sticks/probes. But those listed above usually get the job done.

I guess I'm kind of fearless in my approach with some of the things I use, but as long as I use a light touch and never use anything metal. I haven't made anything worse than it was to start with.

The bamboo skewers are one of my faves. If you crush the end with some pliers, the fibers separate and make a very nice stiff little brush that will get into almost any nook or cranny.

[Jimmy Buffit]

Re: How to clean out emblems/nooks/crannies

how does the steamer make it a non-issue?

Simple, the ~75 psi pressure of the heated vapor simply blasts the residue away. Wipe the area dry, and it is a non issue. Quick and easy.

Jim

[VonLego]

Re: How to clean out emblems/nooks/crannies

Thanks so much rogue, thats exactly what i'm looking for!

[J. A. Michaels]

Re: How to clean out emblems/nooks/crannies

Sorry for the late reply.........

I don't usually use the cleaner wax around emblems. I'll use what ever product I'm using on the rest of the body panels, but I get into the tight spots with a Q-Tip or small piece of foam pad by hand. If it's really tight around the emblem (tight curves or small 3-D print) I use M-135 on a Q-tip. The emblems themselves are usually metal, so I use metal polish on them. Sometimes with a Q-tip.

The cleaner wax I use more for inside door jambs, around the door itself, trunk and hood edges, and the small gaps in body panels around lights, trim, bumpers...etc. The hard to polish surfaces that always seem to catch and hold wax when doing a body panel (the same places most people tape off to prevent wax from getting built up in).

As far as a tool kit goes, I use:

-Plastic razorblades.
-Q-Tips (a lot of them).
-Small folded pieces of Micro Fiber.
-Small pieces of foam applicator pads.
-Tooth brush (to remove dried wax from crevices if microfiber won't fit)
-Bamboo skewers (the ones for making shish kabob, the tip fits into very tight spots with ease. Tooth picks work too, but aren't as strong).
-1" foam paint brushes (to apply dressings in tight spots).
-Felt cones and wheels for a Dremel tool (for badly stained metal in tough spots).
-Quart size pump chemical sprayer with a brass nozzle (easier to control the spray in tight spots, than a regular spray bottle. I use it in large tight spots like fire walls and under wheel wells)

And my final secret weapon for making hard to reach or tight places shiny, when nothing else will work. I'm almost embarrassed to say it................................Turtle wax Ice Liquid. Yeah, I know, It's not great stuff. But I had to try it, so now I have a bottle of it I'm trying to use up. Since it doesn't leave any white chalky residue when it dries, it works pretty well in tight spots where nothing else does. I consider it a thick spray detailer.

I have several other miscellaneous brushes, erasers and plastic sticks/probes. But those listed above usually get the job done.

I guess I'm kind of fearless in my approach with some of the things I use, but as long as I use a light touch and never use anything metal. I haven't made anything worse than it was to start with.

The bamboo skewers are one of my faves. If you crush the end with some pliers, the fibers separate and make a very nice stiff little brush that will get into almost any nook or cranny.

Your kit looks like a must have. Thanks for sharing it.