Polishing Pads for G110

[Geek]

I think I will be getting a G110 soon for waxing mostly and to do some polishing to my 04 van which has a few scratches. I also have a brand new Civic.

I don't remember if I asked this question before (so much reading......) and want to make sure of the right pads (white, blue, etc)

[Megafast13]

Re: Polishing Pads for G110

You are going to love the G110.

The best use for it is Polishing. It can remove scratches and swirls so much easier than by hand! It's also great for waxing applications

For Polishing,

Two 7" Soft Buff 2.0 Yellow Polishing Pads

1 7" Soft Buff 2.0 Black Finishing Pad




Check out my car care link for info on the steps...

[PorscheGuy997]

Re: Polishing Pads for G110

You are going to need more than two polishing pads to attempt correcting the swirls on the van.

For every product, you are going to need a different pad.

Also, you need to change pads fairly often. The pad will soak up product as time goes on. This will add weight to the pad and prevent the polisher from rotating the pad as fast. If the pad is too heavy, then the correction will be decreased.

[Megafast13]

Re: Polishing Pads for G110

You are going to need more than two polishing pads to attempt correcting the swirls on the van.

For every product, you are going to need a different pad.

Also, you need to change pads fairly often. The pad will soak up product as time goes on. This will add weight to the pad and prevent the polisher from rotating the pad as fast. If the pad is too heavy, then the correction will be decreased.

Depending on the steps you are going to do...At Least 2 Pads

I did my car completely with only 2 polishing pads... 1=M105, 1=M205.

If it's in your budget than go ahead and some more

But if you are going to take your time, you don't need more than 2

[Nappers]

Re: Polishing Pads for G110

I like having 2 pads for each product for each car. Cleaning on the fly helps but the pad eventually gets saturated. Meaning, if I use 2 products to dial in my process, I end up using 4 pads. Once in a while, I use a third product, but usually one of 3 products isn't used and I rinse that pad out in case I need it.

When I was first starting, I would switch pads, rinse the polish out of the first one and set it out to dry while using the new pad then, if needed, I have a new pad that is clean and dry to use.

You don't want to cross contaminate products with pads, even waxes if your getting pads to apply waxes.

I also label my pads for each product and a back up pad with no label. I also put black lines on the backing to make sure the pad is spinning when I work on the paint.

Anyways, my .02 worth.....

Have fun either way!

[Geek]

Re: Polishing Pads for G110

my van doesn't have swirls I think but it has a few minor scratches.

1.what is the black pad for?
2.is there a difference between 6.5 and 7 pads? I see both are available and want to make sure that 7" is the way to go
3.does the brand matter (Meguiars vs. other)
4.what would be a "decent" low price for each?

I don't want to buy the "kit" at ADS/Autogeek 'cause I don't need the towels and others, just the G110 plus my "starter" pads, that's it...

thanks..

[PorscheGuy997]

Re: Polishing Pads for G110

Depending on the steps you are going to do...At Least 2 Pads

I did my car completely with only 2 polishing pads... 1=M105, 1=M205.

If it's in your budget than go ahead and some more

But if you are going to take your time, you don't need more than 2

The more pads you can afford, the better. Fresh pads are always going to cut more than a pad that's been used on a few panels. You can read my post above for more information. But, if you plan on polishing the entire vehicle, it's best to have more than one pad to maintain consistent cutting.


1. The black pad is used for applying pure polishes, protectants, and mild cleaners (M09, M82, M205, etc). If you have micromarring after using a polishing pad, try using a finishing pad.

2. The 7" finishing and cutting pads are different than the 6.5" finishing and cutting pads. Also, the 7" pads are washable, while the 6.5" are not.

3. Yes. I really don't care for the CCS pads.

4. ADS usually has the lowest prices. You might want to check Amazon.com, too.

[J. A. Michaels]

Re: Polishing Pads for G110

With Chris. The more pads the better. I use 3 pads on my Grand Cherokee for correction alone. Then at the very least I use 2/3 for the lsp.

I understand you don't want to get the extras with a kit from ads, But I would check out his kits and a 6 pak pad special. Just my 0.02 worth

[Tim Lingor]

Re: Polishing Pads for G110

The more pads you can afford, the better. Fresh pads are always going to cut more than a pad that's been used on a few panels. You can read my post above for more information. But, if you plan on polishing the entire vehicle, it's best to have more than one pad to maintain consistent cutting.


1. The black pad is used for applying pure polishes, protectants, and mild cleaners (M09, M82, M205, etc). If you have micromarring after using a polishing pad, try using a finishing pad.

2. The 7" finishing and cutting pads are different than the 6.5" finishing and cutting pads. Also, the 7" pads are washable, while the 6.5" are not.

3. Yes. I really don't care for the CCS pads.

4. ADS usually has the lowest prices. You might want to check Amazon.com, too.

I am definitely with Chris (PorscheGuy997)!!!

I have been doing this for close to 24 years and anyone that says all that you need is two pads (1 pad per product) does not have a clue what they are talking about!!!

Pads will load up with both product as well as CC/paint, thereby losing their cutting ability. Saturated pads will also cause product to leak through to the velcro, possibly loosening its grip. Moreover, once the new SMAT abrasives load up on the pad, it changes the cut. That is why it is important to clean the pads on the fly after each panel. Eventually, the pads are just too saturated and need to changed for a fresh/clean one. Finally, depending on the paint, it may take several passes to remove the marring and swirling. The more passes, the more saturated the pads become. Therefore one should use probably 2-3 pads per product at least for a full size car.

Tim

[Tuck91]

Re: Polishing Pads for G110

I am definitely with Chris (PorscheGuy997)!!!

I have been doing this for close to 24 years and anyone that says all that you need is two pads (1 pad per product) does not have a clue what they are talking about!!!

Pads will load up with both product as well as CC/paint, thereby losing their cutting ability. Saturated pads will also cause product to leak through to the velcro, possibly loosening its grip. Moreover, once the new SMAT abrasives load up on the pad, it changes the cut. That is why it is important to clean the pads on the fly after each panel. Eventually, the pads are just too saturated and need to changed for a fresh/clean one. Finally, depending on the paint, it may take several passes to remove the marring and swirling. The more passes, the more saturated the pads become. Therefore one should use probably 2-3 pads per product at least for a full size car.

Tim

Hey Tim,

In your thread where you detailed the red F150 with the bad buffer burns, didnt you say that on a truck that size you would normally use close to six pads but for that detail you ended up using eleven pads? But i agree with you on the number of pads you need because i would imagine you would have had a harder time just using two pads on that truck. Im no expert but i think you are right when you say you need more than two pads to buff out a large truck.

[Carfire]

Re: Polishing Pads for G110


Great Post on Tim's Part!!
(Here is the Post You Were Talking About Nick)

[Tim Lingor]

Re: Polishing Pads for G110

Hey Tim,

In your thread where you detailed the red F150 with the bad buffer burns, didnt you say that on a truck that size you would normally use close to six pads but for that detail you ended up using eleven pads? But i agree with you on the number of pads you need because i would imagine you would have had a harder time just using two pads on that truck. Im no expert but i think you are right when you say you need more than two pads to buff out a large truck.

Yes I did say that and here is why.

Please keep in mind, I was using a rotary polisher mostly and then the G100. Using a rotary makes a big difference as I need to make way fewer passes with the rotary than one would need to make with a G110. So to put it another way, if I need 2-3 pads per product with the rotary to do the correction, you will need many more pads with the DA as you will need to make way more passes with the DA to do the same amount of correction (if possible) as a rotary polisher. See what I mean?

Also as you will notice, that detail was completed with products that contained diminishing abrasives and not the new SMAT abrasives. Moreover, I clean the pads with the rotary and a brush. After every 2-3 panels, I use the rotary, brush and then use an air compressor to blow even more product off of the pads.

If one was to use a DA, on my detail you referenced, one would need more pads than I normally would use with a rotary. Does that clarify it?

One more thing, if I am doing major rotary compounding or wet sanding mark removal, I will use wool pads which I will spur and use an air compressor to clean. Once I am done with the wool pads, the finish looks very very good and will need fewer foam pads as the finish is already 70+% finished. So again, less pads will be used.

The poster wants to use the G110 for paint correction etc. In that case, he will need more pads than a person who is using a rotary.

Tim

[wyseilmykkar]

Re: Polishing Pads for G110

Okay, I have a question that I think goes back to the initial inquiry of this thread: there seems to have been lots of talk about what pads to use for correction and polishing, but what about applying wax/sealant?
I can see using the black finishing pad to apply the product, but what about removal?

[Tim Lingor]

Re: Polishing Pads for G110

Okay, I have a question that I think goes back to the initial inquiry of this thread: there seems to have been lots of talk about what pads to use for correction and polishing, but what about applying wax/sealant?
I can see using the black finishing pad to apply the product, but what about removal?

To remove the residue of a wax or sealant, you have two choices:

1. Removal with a high quality microfiber towel like Meguiar's Ultimate Wipe or,

2. Using a clean/dry cutting or polishing pad topped with a microfiber bonnet. Set the DA (G110) polisher to speed 3-5 and proceed to remove the product with the bonnet. The bonnets are reversible so do one half with one side, flip it over and do the other side.

I prefer method #2, but unfortunately, Meguiar's stopped making the bonnets so you will need to source them from another company/manufacturer.

I hope that helps!

Tim