ColorX and #66 Quick Detailer

[gbackus]

Those of you looking for a good one step product and for those of you that like ColorX I heavily suggest trying #66. It's like ColorX on steroids.

[Mike Phillips]

And versatile in that it can be used by hand, dual action polisher, orbital buffer and rotary buffer.



Mike

[Lt1Corvette]

I have always wanted to try that stuff. Just have to find a pos car to try it on. I would like to see how well it eats through oxidation.

[DETLMAN]

#66 is like #80 in the respect of you just don't know what you are missing until you try it. Once you add it to your arsenal you will wonder why you didn't do it sooner. Dont mis understand the 2 products are completly different but they are both products that dont get the attention they deserve.

I love it, its amazing how versatile it is...

[gbackus]

LT1 corvette, I'm in SoCal and can give you a sample of #66 if you like. I just need a dispenser bottle.

[autotecnia]

Hi.

Mike, I thought the only difference between #66 an #80 was that the latter was safe on new paint. Are there other differences?

Thank you.

[gb387]

I have used #66 many times... like it very easy to use and works well and very reasonably priced.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by autotecnia
Hi.

Mike, I thought the only difference between #66 an #80 was that the latter was safe on new paint. Are there other differences?

Thank you.

Hi autotecnia,

The two formula's are very different. The Speed Glaze is a Cleaner/Polish, while the M-66 Quick Detailer is a Cleaner/Wax.

They are the same in that they both make paint look good, but they are to very different products.

Here's some information on Meguiar's Polishes. You can read the entire article here,

Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Step-3 Polishing



Meguiar's offers two types of polishes, Cleaner Polishes and Pure Polishes. Cleaner Polishes are for removing very light or fine defects while restoring a crystal clear, smooth high gloss surface. Pure polishes are for finishes already in excellent condition and are for the purpose or creating brilliant high gloss with deep dark reflections.

If you look in Webster's Dictionary under the word polish, one of the definitions they include reads like this:

"A preparation that is used to produce gloss, and often color for the protection and decoration of a surface."

This definition best describes Meguiar's Pure Polishes. Meguiar's pure polishes are designed to create brilliant high gloss while preparing the surface for the application of a protective coating. Meguiar's pure polishes accomplish this without the use of abrasives.


Another definition found in Webster's Dictionary for polish is,

"To make smooth and glossy by friction."

This definition best describes Meguiar's Cleaner/Polishes. Meguiar's cleaner polishes are formulated to very gently abrade the surface with Meguiar's Diminishing Abrasive TM and Buffered Abrasive TM technology to remove the finest defects and create a perfectly smooth, high gloss finish.

Depending on what type of paint you're working on, traditional paints like lacquers and enamels, or catalyzed clear coats, Meguiar's has the products specifically designed to work on both types of paints, not to mention many other surfaces such as plastics and polyester resins (Fiberglas Gel-coats).


Meguiar's Trade Secret Polishing Oils
The trade secret oils Meguiar's uses in both types of polishes are unique to the industry and to this day have never been surpassed for creating deep, dark reflections and brilliant high gloss by any of our competitors in over 100 years.

The oils Meguiar's uses are also important in maintaining the original condition of the paint by filling in the naturally occurring microscopic pores and surface imperfections thus preventing detrimental substances and elements as simple as water, or worse, acid-rain, from entering into these pores and microscopic surface imperfections thus causing oxidation and chemical etching. These oils act to replace the original resins as they wear away through natural processes.

When paint is new, it is the most impermeable it will ever be, this means it is a very smooth non-porous, continuous film. With age, exposure to the environment and micro-scratching caused by day-in, day-out wear and tear, your paint develops micro-fissures in the surface along with other defects. These micro-fissures and other defects act to make the continuous film or coating of paint more porous. As this happens, your car's finish becomes more vulnerable to corrosive elements that will attack and degrade your finish.


Remember, waxes, synthetic or otherwise, are meant to be Sacrificial Barriers with the intended purpose sealing the surface, while blocking those things that would attack your paint, from coming into direct contact with the paint.

"Waxes protect your finish by sacrificing themselves so that your paint doesn't have to"

An analogy is your skin. In the same way you can clean, polish and protect your skin, you can clean, polish and protect your car's finish. Soap can be used to clean your skin and remove dirt from the pores. Skin lotions can be used to moisturize your skin, conditioning it and making it more clear and beautiful. Protection products like lotions used to protect hands from exposure to chemicals and UV protectants can be applied to help protect your skin from the things that would attack your skin if these harmful things could come into direct contact with your skin.

While human skin and automotive paint are very different, the analogy is very similar. With Meguiar's, you can:

* Wash your car's finish to remove unwanted and accumulated dirt contaminants
* Clean your paint with our special paint cleaners and cleaner/polishes
* Polish your paint with our pure polishes to create unequaled beauty
* Protect your paint with our advanced paint protection products
* Maintain your car's finish using our fast and easy to use maintenance products.


The unique thing about Meguiar's highly specialized trade secret oils is their ability to restore and maintain the Optical Clarity of both single stage and clear coat paints in a way that waxes alone cannot match, (both natural and synthetic), the results of which are demonstrated in side-by-side comparisons.


Mike

[scrub]

Thanks for the great topic. I've used #66 a few times. Seems to work well. I've topped it with NXT for some real good results. Since someone brought up #80, I have a feeling any polish applied before #66 would be removed. So should one just skip the polish step anyway??

I'm really trying to find a spot for #66 in my arsenal (he said arsenal huh huh!), but I don't want the prep work taken off with the LSP (#66).

Not trying to hijack the topic.

[gbackus]

#66 is my most used product. I use it as a standalone, or as a base for my LSP. If the paint is really bad adn the customer wants to pay for the extra polishing step, I'll use #83, then #66, and if they paid for a topper, I'll top it. I also have some #80 in case i'm working on fresh paint(from repairs and such) and I'll use that in place of #66, with LSP.

[scrub]

gbackus

Thanks for info. In summary you use #66 a LSP or as prep and topped. You dont' prep (polish) then #66. If you have a client that pays for polish you bypass #66 then use #83 or #80.

Do you use a PC or rotary?

Do you see a big difference in NXT and #66?

We might try this process too. Thanks again.

[gbackus]

This is usually what I offer:
One Step: Clay, #66
Polish and Wax: Clay, #66, some LSP
If the paint is bad I'll recomend the two step polish, and for a small fee they can get a topper(usually 5-15 dollars depending on size of the car) so:
Clay, #83, #66, and sometimes an LSP
On fresh Paint:
One Step: Clay, #80
Two Step: Clay, #83, #80

On repeat customers I usually don't have to clay.

Right now I use the PC, but I'm learning how to use the rotary on some practice panels. What I've noticed, is that #66 with the rotary is just as effective if not more effective than #83 with the PC. So once I get better with the rotary, I don't think I'll be using #83 very much, except on hard paint, or really bad defects, and in this case I'll use #83 with the rotary, and follow with #66 on the PC.

Hope that answers all your questions. BTW, #66+NXT=killer But right now I'm playing around with paste waxes as they're pretty fun to use.

*edit* #66 as a LSP looks nothing like NXT, in fact I haven't seen anything period that looks like NXT. If I had to say that #66 looked like anything, it reminds of #26 without as much depth/glear, but with more of a clear glossy look.

[scrub]

Thanks again. I'll dissect the info and get back to you.

[autotecnia]

Thanks you all for your answers. They have been very helpfull.

[Larry A]

Can Color X be used with a rotary ?. I used Color X by hand on a oxidized silver Nissan and was very suprised on how well it came out.