Info about different waxes.....

[visaliaipa]

Now that I've been detailing my own rides and a few friends now for some time I have a few questions about the various waxes out there. I learned alot from the Meguiars Saturday class I went to a year and a half ago but maybe some other can give me some input.

My mainstay is Meguiars products....I use U/C, M105, M205, M07, M2 and M16 paste wax. Also UQd, UQW, gold glass shampoo and well you get the picture.

I see alot on some otehr retail site of various brands of waxes that tend to be more on the expensive side. I like the DODO Purple Haze and the CG 5050 wax. I've never used them and by no means want to start a bashing or whcih is better type thread.

But what, if any, is the difference between some of there waxes. I know Autogeek has a Woldgang wax for 175.00 and Chemical Guys had a wax named Celeste Dettaglio thats 172.

Why such the high prices...? HAs anyone with any experience really seen a difference in the higher end "concourse" waxes? My M16 seems to be just fine albeit I haven't used any of the others.

My truck is a Dodge 3500 Charcoal gray and my car is a BMW 745Li titanium gray.....any difference becasue of the colors of the car...?

[Ravi_1992]

Re: Info about different waxes.....

http://www.zymol.com/zymolvintageglaze22oz.aspx

Check out this one

[Blueline]

Re: Info about different waxes.....

http://www.zymol.com/zymolvintageglaze22oz.aspx

Check out this one

"Delivered by bee" no less. THAT is what is is so expensive. The Bee union is very powerful, and the wages are exorbitant.

[akimel]

Re: Info about different waxes.....

I have never used M16, so I cannot compare; but I have now used several high end waxes. Will you see a difference between M16 and, say, CG 5050? Probably not. I have now tried several high end waxes, and I can say that the differences in appearance that you may (or may not see) are subtle indeed. Nor will you see an improvement in durability--quite the contrary. At least by reputation, M16 remains one of the most durable carnauba waxes available.

But some (not all) of the more expensive waxes are easier to use. Souveran, Fuzion, CG 50/50, P21S 100%--each is wipe-on/buff-off. That is to say, you apply the wax to a panel and then you immediately buff it off. There is no need to wait until the wax fully dries before removal. They still need to be applied thin, but they are pretty forgiving, too.

If you really want to try a boutique wax, PM me and I'll make a couple of suggestions.

[Murr1525]

Re: Info about different waxes.....

But some (not all) of the more expensive waxes are easier to use. Souveran, Fuzion, CG 50/50, P21S 100%--each is wipe-on/buff-off. That is to say, you apply the wax to a panel and then you immediately buff it off. There is no need to wait until the wax fully dries before removal. They still need to be applied thin, but they are pretty forgiving, too.

This point has come up before, and I think the answer is a bit of a 'who knows'. But I can take Nxt 2.0 and wipe it on and wipe it off right away. How much protection would be left behind? So are they just saying that, or does it actually leave behind as much protection as a product that dries? I have no idea, but it makes me wonder.

[akimel]

Re: Info about different waxes.....

This point has come up before, and I think the answer is a bit of a 'who knows'. But I can take Nxt 2.0 and wipe it on and wipe it off right away. How much protection would be left behind? So are they just saying that, or does it actually leave behind as much protection as a product that dries? I have no idea, but it makes me wonder.

While it's true that you can apply NXT and wipe it off immediately, that is not how it was designed to be used. I've never tried experimenting with NXT as a WOWO product, but I imagine one might run into different problems (streaking? compromised protection?). But the WOWO boutique waxes are expressly designed to be WOWO waxes. Their solvents flash quickly. Leave them on too long and they become hard to remove, at least so I have read (I've never tested this).

Do WOWO waxes offer less protection than waxes that need to haze? Interesting question. I can see why one might think this might be the case. Just yesterday I applied a coat of Souveran to my Luthien. Souveran is known for its limited durability. Why is it less durable? Would it be more durable if one were to allow it to fully dry before removal? Why is M16 more durable than most other carnauba waxes sold on the market? Heck if I know.

For myself, I put a high value on ease of use--hence my willingness to pay a bit more for a tub of wax or bottle of synthetic sealant.

[Blueline]

Re: Info about different waxes.....

In my few years of waxing, and using nothing terribly expensive, I have found that the harder it is to take off, the longer it lasts. #16 can be extremely hard to take off, if one applies it to thick, but it lasts and it make my black car look awesome. I have never tried NXT, but just the fact that it wipes off easily, does not make me want to try it. Wiping off easy reminds me of some late night info commercial.
Just some old school mentality in that if it is easy, then it "ain't" worth it.

[TOGWT]

Re: Info about different waxes.....

The majority (approx 70%) of a polymer matrix cross-linking cycle occurs within 30 – 45 minutes of its initial wipe-on application drying; a swipe test is the best way to determine if it is ready to be removed; run your bare finger across the paint and if the product doesn't smear it is ready to be removed. However it is recommended that a period of 12 - 24 hours is allowed after the initial cross-linking for the process to complete, otherwise polymerization and durability may be compromised

Carnauba in today's wax formulas functions mostly as a carrier; it’s used to keep the polymers and oils on your car's surface. When applied to a surface will not adhere properly on its own, solvents and miscible oils are added to enable it to spread evenly to the surface. Natural and synthetic wax and glazes initially adhere by surface tension; the balance of the adherence process is that it works its way via the carrier system (solvent and / or oils) and the polymers into the microscopic gaps and a valley of the paint film surface.

Or in the case of a wax over a polymer sealant- the polymers form a bond, thereby creating a mechanical anchor, a wax doesn’t form a true covalent (molecular) bond to the surface, this is due to its limited polymer content, but forms a hard shell over the surface; the process involves the solvents outgas (evaporating), the wax hardening/setting and the small % of polymers forming a bond with another polymer (urethane paint or a sealant). This process is time, temperature and humidity dependent; after sufficient drying times do a quick swipe test with your finger, if no smearing or drag is evident; the residue is ready to be removed.