Tweet
Re: Washed with Scotchbrite?
Is the procedure you recommended all done by hand, or would I need a DA? I'm a little concerned about having it buffed with a rotary because it still has a glossy appearance and looks ok from a distance. Last thing I want is to have a thin layer of clear left that starts peeling.
What exactly causes the drying and shinking of the finish? So I can take steps to prevent it from occuring on my other vehicle. Thanks again for all the info.
Originally posted by RogueGypsy
View Post
I don't know if it's a Chevy thing or just white paint in general, but be very careful how much clear you remove from it. I've seen more white Chevys with clear coat failure than any other vehicle or color.
I agree with everyone else, you probably won't be able to get them all out and it looks like you have some alligatoring in the paint too. Meaning it's drying and shrinking. But I do think you can get acceptable results with a bit of work. BTW It looks like someone had a cover of some type on it to protect it from dust storms and the cover trapped the dirt and sand and rubbed it all over. I hate it when that happens.
Try this:
Wash- obviously to remove the dirt.
Clay- to remove any embedded contaminants that would cause scaring in the next step.
M105 ultra cut compound- to remove as much of the scratches possible and leave a much smoother finish. Smoothing the scratches, even if they are not removed will greatly reduce how visible they are to the eye.
M07 show car glaze- to restore the lost oils to the paint and clear, it may or may not help with the alligatoring. But it will make the paint shine.
M26 Hi-Tech yellow wax- to help fill the remaining scratches and better conceal them.
NXT 2.0- a final layer of protection and more filling for the scratches.
I'm confident, after working this routine, your paint will look better than the majority of vehicles driving down the road. Even with the scratches still there, they will be far less noticeable and the shiny from the NXT should blind anyone trying to look too close.
I agree with everyone else, you probably won't be able to get them all out and it looks like you have some alligatoring in the paint too. Meaning it's drying and shrinking. But I do think you can get acceptable results with a bit of work. BTW It looks like someone had a cover of some type on it to protect it from dust storms and the cover trapped the dirt and sand and rubbed it all over. I hate it when that happens.
Try this:
Wash- obviously to remove the dirt.
Clay- to remove any embedded contaminants that would cause scaring in the next step.
M105 ultra cut compound- to remove as much of the scratches possible and leave a much smoother finish. Smoothing the scratches, even if they are not removed will greatly reduce how visible they are to the eye.
M07 show car glaze- to restore the lost oils to the paint and clear, it may or may not help with the alligatoring. But it will make the paint shine.
M26 Hi-Tech yellow wax- to help fill the remaining scratches and better conceal them.
NXT 2.0- a final layer of protection and more filling for the scratches.
I'm confident, after working this routine, your paint will look better than the majority of vehicles driving down the road. Even with the scratches still there, they will be far less noticeable and the shiny from the NXT should blind anyone trying to look too close.
Is the procedure you recommended all done by hand, or would I need a DA? I'm a little concerned about having it buffed with a rotary because it still has a glossy appearance and looks ok from a distance. Last thing I want is to have a thin layer of clear left that starts peeling.
What exactly causes the drying and shinking of the finish? So I can take steps to prevent it from occuring on my other vehicle. Thanks again for all the info.
Comment