New to the forum and really appreciate the quality of input. Just got the paint/clear done on my project and have final sanded with 2K grit. I've read about various pads, compounds, pressure, etc. until I have a headache. Can someone tell me what I should use for the initial compound and then final polish/glaze along with recommended pads for each. I've got a rotary buffer with adjustable speeds which I am looking forward to using. I can paint but have never buffed and use Meguiars consumer grade products exclusively. Thank you for any input/suggestions.
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67 chevelle, painted and final sanded with 2k
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Re: 67 chevelle, painted and final sanded with 2k
Havent done painting/sanding myself, but none of the Consumer products are intended for rotary use.
I have a feeling you will be pointed more towards the #105 type of product, or maybe SOLO.2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue
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Re: 67 chevelle, painted and final sanded with 2k
Welcome to The Forum.
Step 1 (Optional): Refining sanding with 3,000 grit sanding paper (for faster compounding in Step 2),
Step 2: Sanding mark removal - rotary buffer, M105 Ultra Cut Compound with wool cutting pad (W4000 or W5000 for fast paint cutting/ leveling), speed 1,400 - 1,500 rpm (could be faster if paint is harder, up to 1,800 rpm),
Step 3: Swirl removal (left by the wool pad) - rotary buffer, M205 Ultra Finishing Polish, yellow polishing pad, speed 1,200 rpm,
Step 4: Gloss restoration - either DA or rotary buffer, black finishing pad, choice of products: M205, M80 Speed Glaze or M07 Show Car Glaze, DA speed 3, rotary 900-1,200 rpm,
Step 5: After at least 60 days - Protection/ Wax.
It's a long process but the paint is gonna look flawless.
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Re: 67 chevelle, painted and final sanded with 2k
Greg's plan should work, and I second the suggestion of refining your surface with 3,000 grit sandpaper for sure. the finer you go with the sanding, the less likely you will leave sanding marks in the paint, and the less time you will be spending compounding your paint.
I recently had to clean up a $10,000 white, single stage paint job on a 1950s Lotus Elite that had leftover sanding marks because the painter rushed the sanding and compounding steps. I ended up having to back his leftovers out with 2,500 and/or 3,000 grit Meguiar's Unigrit sandpaper, and then start the entire compounding/polishing process all over again.
Also, what brand sand paper are you using and how are you applying it? (Block, hand, foam block, D/A, etc)
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Re: 67 chevelle, painted and final sanded with 2k
Hi Mark,
You worked on a great project: 1950s Lotus Elite.
Good points on sanding: wet/ damp/ block. I also learned that sanding paper quality makes a big difference.
Mat (Murr1525) always adds some great info. The So1o System would work as well. M86 Cut and Polish Cream can remove those sanding marks without problem and restore gloss with So1o foam pads.
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Re: 67 chevelle, painted and final sanded with 2k
Thanks guys. I bought Meguiar's Unigrit sandpaper. I'll go back and get some 3000 grit as you suggested. Do you have experience with using 3K grit with a DA? I've seen some demos that looked like it saved a bunch of time. I also understand you can "damp" sand with this method as well?
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Re: 67 chevelle, painted and final sanded with 2k
Originally posted by TVM4009 View PostThanks guys. I bought Meguiar's Unigrit sandpaper. I'll go back and get some 3000 grit as you suggested. Do you have experience with using 3K grit with a DA? I've seen some demos that looked like it saved a bunch of time. I also understand you can "damp" sand with this method as well?
Use a GFCI electrical outlet for safety as you're gonna spray little water on your disc (not much, maybe just one or two sprays) and little bit more on the paint. Set your DA to speed 4, little pressure and move your arm like during waxing. It's gonna take some time for the sanding disc to start cutting and then you'll see white clear coat paint coming off.
You'll finish very evenly using your DA as a sander. The compounding process will take much less time after.
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