OK, I have a bit of an odd question. I have a problem I'm not sure many people have had. We have a 1990 Honda Accord, all original paint (BC/CC system), and it seems that no matter how I prep or what wax or sealant I use, it will not stick to the paint. In essence, it's like it wears off after 2-3 weeks. A few examples: I applied Duragloss 105 to it once, and a week later took some pictures (see this thread) after it had rained, and the beading had noticeably decreased. Another time, I washed, clayed, and applied 1 coat of Klasse AIO and 3 coats of Klasse SG (over the course of a week), and within about 3 weeks it was like there was hardly any wax on it at all. Several weeks ago, I washed, clayed, applied DG 601 followed by 105, and then applied Collinite 476 the next day. Same thing - 3-4 weeks later, no signs of strong protection. A week ago, I did a wash with Chemical Guys Citrus Wash, clayed, and did a coat of Collinite 845. When I did a maintenance wash today, the beading was noticeably diminished. I typically notice a decrease in signs of protection on the horizontal panels first, followed by the vertical panels. I have had this problem for quite some time now, and after having tried everything I can think of, I am at my wit's end. I hate having to wax every 3-4 weeks out of necessity. This car is a daily driver that sits outside 24/7, BTW. My only thought is to do a weekly spray wax with either Optimum Car Wax or Meguiar's Synthetic XPress Spray Wax (which really won't work in the winter), or do a coating like CQuartz. I'm just afraid the coating won't "stick". This is the only one of our cars I have this problem on, so I don't think it's me. Any thoughts or theories on this? Is there something else I should try, or should I just accept this as unexplained phenomenon? Maybe I should call in Agent Mulder to investigate? Thanks for your help guys!
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Re: bit of an odd question
Hi Shane,
That's a very interesting story. You prep your surface well before applying the protection so it should really last much longer. You even used Chemical Guys Citrus Wash, clay bars regularly and Klasse cleaner wax so it should really be nothing bad sitting below/ above your surface.
The only thing which comes to my head is 24/7 exposure to contaminants. Are you close to any serious treads: airport, industrial fall out, etc. After you clay your Honda does the surface feel super smooth and stays that way for weeks? Do you have this problem all year round or only in some seasons?
I think boosting your wax protection weekly/ bi-weekly with sprayable wax would be a good choice. Ultimate Quik Wax is a good product for that as well.
I understand your hesitation to step to one of permanent coatings due to short period of wax protection/ bonding in the past.
Hopefully you'll get some more suggestions from other Members and the solution for your case will be found.
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Re: bit of an odd question
I'm a bit perplexed myself. In regards to wax lasting through rain, sometimes rain can be pretty harsh and really wipe out a layer of wax - especially if it hadn't rained in a while and therefor was likely more contaminated from buildup in the atmosphere.
Aside from that, the only thing I can think of is that you are possible stripping your wax during your wash due to a stronger than necessary mix of car wash soap/solution. 99% of consumers use FAR more soap than they need to, so you might want to verify that first. Even a good CAR soap can strip wax if too much is used.
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Re: bit of an odd question
Shane,
I can't say this is an absolute rule, but it worked for me in a similar situation. I have a 98 Olds in the family with original BC/CC. Wax just didn't seem to last long enough, so I treated it with some of the oil-rich products that I use on SS paint, namely some M03 Glaze and some M07 by hand. Collinite 845 as an LSP then lasted from December through April. I don't profess to know the science behind it, but I just thought the old BC/CC might need "moisturized" just the same as SS paint. If you have some M80,M03, M09 or M07 around, it might be worth a try.
Bill
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Re: bit of an odd question
Originally posted by Mark Kleis View PostI'm a bit perplexed myself. In regards to wax lasting through rain, sometimes rain can be pretty harsh and really wipe out a layer of wax - especially if it hadn't rained in a while and therefor was likely more contaminated from buildup in the atmosphere.
Aside from that, the only thing I can think of is that you are possible stripping your wax during your wash due to a stronger than necessary mix of car wash soap/solution. 99% of consumers use FAR more soap than they need to, so you might want to verify that first. Even a good CAR soap can strip wax if too much is used.Shane
1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera SL
If you trim yourself to fit the world you'll whittle yourself away. - Aaron Tippin
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Re: bit of an odd question
Originally posted by CieraSL View PostI used to use the glug-glug method, but I got a couple 1 ounce measuring cups from Autogeek and now I use those to measure out the proper amount of soap.
I wonder what the pH level is on your water... if for some reason it was really out of the norm that could play a role as well.
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Re: bit of an odd question
The only reason a product like a wax or polymer sealant won’t bond to a surface is from surface contaminants that are interfering with the adhesion or cross-linking (a polymer will only bond to a paint surface). The only other thing that will negatively affect the bonding process is silicone residue
• Wash surface with an alkaline solution
• Clean paint with a decontamination product or use detailer’s clay
• Use a chemical paint cleaner (AIO)
These should ensure a ‘clean’ oil-free surface , however silicone removal is more complicated~ Providing unbiased advice that Professional and Enthusiast Detailer’s Trust ~ Blog – http://togwt1980.blogspot.com
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