Difference between the single digit and triple series of polishing/cutting products

[Tanner]

Hi Folks: The more I think I know, the less I realize I know. What is the diffrence between the 1 to 9 numbered polishing and cutting products and the 105, 205 etc products. Secondly, is quick detailer the same as final inspection 34?
Some sites state that swirl marks and halograms are an expected and acceptable stage of detailing; some say that they are caused by incomplete or incorrect detailing? What do you think?
I own both a PC DA and Makita rotoray and have experience using both.

Thank you for reading and advising!

Best,

Tony

[Murr1525]

Re: Difference between the single digit and triple series of polishing/cutting produc

What is the diffrence between the 1 to 9 numbered polishing and cutting products and the 105, 205 etc products.

Well, quite a lot really.

And you forget the 80-series products... and a couple in the 90's...

Really the #105/#205 are the newest products, so newest technology, etc. #105 is the strongest cleaner in the lines right now. The SMAT type products tend to have a better chance of finishing nicely, as opposed to DAT products that you had to watch, and let break down completely, and then stop at the right time.

But depends what you are working on.. #80 is still great for single stage paints. #7 is always good.

Secondly, is quick detailer the same as final inspection 34?

Not exactly the same, but if just looking for a spray detailer, they would work about the same.

Some sites state that swirl marks and halograms are an expected and acceptable stage of detailing; some say that they are caused by incomplete or incorrect detailing? What do you think?

Depends.. If doing an initial heavy correction with some wool pads and a rotary, then you probably wont get a perfect finish, without more work after.

If you are just fixing up swirls, you should be able to remove them without causing more.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Difference between the single digit and triple series of polishing/cutting produc

Hi Tony, and welcome to MOL!

The numbers you see on the Mirror Glaze line of products are simply part numbers; in and of themselves they tell you nothing specific about the product. The newest products in that lineup, M86 So1o, M95 Speed Cut Compound, M105 Ultra Cut Compound and M205 Ultra Finishing Polish, all utilize our SMAT (super micro abrasive technology) system while all of the other compounds, cleaners and polishes in the Mirror Glaze line use diminishing abrasives. In a nutshell, this means that diminishing abrasives do just that - break down as you use them, becoming finer through the buffing process. Of course they don't all break down to the same level, so you can't expect an aggressive compound like M85 to finish as nice as a finishing polish like M82. The SMAT products use the latest high tech abrasives that are very small, very hard, and very uniform in size and shape. This gives them fast cutting ability, and a finish nicer than what you might be accustomed to. This is especially true on the more aggressive end, where M105 will cut faster than M85 but leave a much nicer finish in the process.

As for the creation of holograms or buffer swirls when rotary buffing, yes, they often are just part of the process. But there's a lot more to it than that. What part of the process are you in, and what are you trying to achieve? If you've just wet sanded and are now looking to remove your sanding marks with an aggressive compound, a wool pad, and fairly high speed on the rotary, you can expect at least some level of holograms to occur. But since that's not your final step before wax (or other finishing process) it's not like you're expecting perfection with that combo. You are expecting total removal of the sanding marks, sure, but a light hologram or two at that stage is no big deal since you're going to follow with a finishing polish to maximize the finish and remove those holograms in the process. But that doesn't mean you can't minimize those holograms, sometimes quite dramatically, buy using a high quality compound, a very clean wool pad, and good technique. The lighter the holograms you create, the easier they are to remove with your final polishing step. In fact, with a really heavy hologram you may even need an intermediate step between compounding and finish polishing to remove them. But if you use M105 with a really good wool pad, and you use good technique, any holograms you do create should be very light and easy to remove with M205 and a foam finishing pad.

The other great variable to this is, of course, the paint itself. Some paints are extremely delicate and therefore almost impossible to finish out truly hologram free, especially if they're super delicate and non metallic black. But that's not the norm, thankfully!

This line - "they are caused by incomplete or incorrect detailing" - really wraps up the above thoughts. "Incomplete" would be when you just compound with a wool pad and aggressive compound and call it a day. That's an aggressive first step, not your final step. "Incorrect" would be when you're still spinning the rotary at high speed, lifting the pad on edge, and getting overly aggressive even with a finishing polish - that's poor (or incorrect, to stay consistent) technique. In short, they can be caused by either incorrect or incomplete detailing, but those are slightly different things.

[Tanner]

Re: Difference between the single digit and triple series of polishing/cutting produc

Thank you both. All of the cars that I am working on are relatively new (2007 to 2012) and have no more than some veruy minor blemishes, swirl marks and spider marks. I am not looking for incomparable show room results, but I do want more that someone with a bottle of TurtleWax cleaner/wax. If I can remove some of the light blemishes and swirls, deepen the shine and protect it, I woudl be delighted. My cars are a dark red Altima, and dark bue Civic and a black Highlander.

I hope this helps with your response. I would also like to use more of the Makita (for speed and improved cutting). Perhaps, that is not necessary.

I only use Meguires foam pads. No wool pads (but they came with the Makita).

Thank you!

Hi Tony, and welcome to MOL!

The numbers you see on the Mirror Glaze line of products are simply part numbers; in and of themselves they tell you nothing specific about the product. The newest products in that lineup, M86 So1o, M95 Speed Cut Compound, M105 Ultra Cut Compound and M205 Ultra Finishing Polish, all utilize our SMAT (super micro abrasive technology) system while all of the other compounds, cleaners and polishes in the Mirror Glaze line use diminishing abrasives. In a nutshell, this means that diminishing abrasives do just that - break down as you use them, becoming finer through the buffing process. Of course they don't all break down to the same level, so you can't expect an aggressive compound like M85 to finish as nice as a finishing polish like M82. The SMAT products use the latest high tech abrasives that are very small, very hard, and very uniform in size and shape. This gives them fast cutting ability, and a finish nicer than what you might be accustomed to. This is especially true on the more aggressive end, where M105 will cut faster than M85 but leave a much nicer finish in the process.

As for the creation of holograms or buffer swirls when rotary buffing, yes, they often are just part of the process. But there's a lot more to it than that. What part of the process are you in, and what are you trying to achieve? If you've just wet sanded and are now looking to remove your sanding marks with an aggressive compound, a wool pad, and fairly high speed on the rotary, you can expect at least some level of holograms to occur. But since that's not your final step before wax (or other finishing process) it's not like you're expecting perfection with that combo. You are expecting total removal of the sanding marks, sure, but a light hologram or two at that stage is no big deal since you're going to follow with a finishing polish to maximize the finish and remove those holograms in the process. But that doesn't mean you can't minimize those holograms, sometimes quite dramatically, buy using a high quality compound, a very clean wool pad, and good technique. The lighter the holograms you create, the easier they are to remove with your final polishing step. In fact, with a really heavy hologram you may even need an intermediate step between compounding and finish polishing to remove them. But if you use M105 with a really good wool pad, and you use good technique, any holograms you do create should be very light and easy to remove with M205 and a foam finishing pad.

The other great variable to this is, of course, the paint itself. Some paints are extremely delicate and therefore almost impossible to finish out truly hologram free, especially if they're super delicate and non metallic black. But that's not the norm, thankfully!

This line - "they are caused by incomplete or incorrect detailing" - really wraps up the above thoughts. "Incomplete" would be when you just compound with a wool pad and aggressive compound and call it a day. That's an aggressive first step, not your final step. "Incorrect" would be when you're still spinning the rotary at high speed, lifting the pad on edge, and getting overly aggressive even with a finishing polish - that's poor (or incorrect, to stay consistent) technique. In short, they can be caused by either incorrect or incomplete detailing, but those are slightly different things.

[Murr1525]

Re: Difference between the single digit and triple series of polishing/cutting produc

Sounds like you would be looking at something like the Ult. Compound or #105 maybe for a stronger cleaner, and then Ult. Polish or #205 of the milder one, and just using the PC.

Those should be able to handle most swirl problems.

[Tanner]

Re: Difference between the single digit and triple series of polishing/cutting produc

Perfect! I can find them in my AutoZone The 105 and 205 only came in the 32 oz size. Woudl u use a DA or rotary?

Sounds like you would be looking at something like the Ult. Compound or #105 maybe for a stronger cleaner, and then Ult. Polish or #205 of the milder one, and just using the PC.

Those should be able to handle most swirl problems.

[Tanner]

Re: Difference between the single digit and triple series of polishing/cutting produc

Hi Mike:

Great advice...would you recommend the Ultimate Compound and Utimate Polish with a yellow foam pad and a DA or Makita rotatry?

Thank you!

Hi Tony, and welcome to MOL!

The numbers you see on the Mirror Glaze line of products are simply part numbers; in and of themselves they tell you nothing specific about the product. The newest products in that lineup, M86 So1o, M95 Speed Cut Compound, M105 Ultra Cut Compound and M205 Ultra Finishing Polish, all utilize our SMAT (super micro abrasive technology) system while all of the other compounds, cleaners and polishes in the Mirror Glaze line use diminishing abrasives. In a nutshell, this means that diminishing abrasives do just that - break down as you use them, becoming finer through the buffing process. Of course they don't all break down to the same level, so you can't expect an aggressive compound like M85 to finish as nice as a finishing polish like M82. The SMAT products use the latest high tech abrasives that are very small, very hard, and very uniform in size and shape. This gives them fast cutting ability, and a finish nicer than what you might be accustomed to. This is especially true on the more aggressive end, where M105 will cut faster than M85 but leave a much nicer finish in the process.

As for the creation of holograms or buffer swirls when rotary buffing, yes, they often are just part of the process. But there's a lot more to it than that. What part of the process are you in, and what are you trying to achieve? If you've just wet sanded and are now looking to remove your sanding marks with an aggressive compound, a wool pad, and fairly high speed on the rotary, you can expect at least some level of holograms to occur. But since that's not your final step before wax (or other finishing process) it's not like you're expecting perfection with that combo. You are expecting total removal of the sanding marks, sure, but a light hologram or two at that stage is no big deal since you're going to follow with a finishing polish to maximize the finish and remove those holograms in the process. But that doesn't mean you can't minimize those holograms, sometimes quite dramatically, buy using a high quality compound, a very clean wool pad, and good technique. The lighter the holograms you create, the easier they are to remove with your final polishing step. In fact, with a really heavy hologram you may even need an intermediate step between compounding and finish polishing to remove them. But if you use M105 with a really good wool pad, and you use good technique, any holograms you do create should be very light and easy to remove with M205 and a foam finishing pad.

The other great variable to this is, of course, the paint itself. Some paints are extremely delicate and therefore almost impossible to finish out truly hologram free, especially if they're super delicate and non metallic black. But that's not the norm, thankfully!

This line - "they are caused by incomplete or incorrect detailing" - really wraps up the above thoughts. "Incomplete" would be when you just compound with a wool pad and aggressive compound and call it a day. That's an aggressive first step, not your final step. "Incorrect" would be when you're still spinning the rotary at high speed, lifting the pad on edge, and getting overly aggressive even with a finishing polish - that's poor (or incorrect, to stay consistent) technique. In short, they can be caused by either incorrect or incomplete detailing, but those are slightly different things.

[Murr1525]

Re: Difference between the single digit and triple series of polishing/cutting produc

Well, the UC/UP would be for DA Polisher only. #105/#205 could be used by both.

UC would want a polishing pad (yellow from Meguiars), and UP could be polishing or finishing.

[Tanner]

Re: Difference between the single digit and triple series of polishing/cutting produc

Thank you!