1992 Faded Red Paint

[Murr1525]

Re: 1992 Faded Red Paint

Ult. Polish and Gold Class wax will have more oils than the products used before, so that is good.

May not be as much as #80 or #7, but should give a better indicator if it will hold up, or start to fail again right away.

[jfelbab]

Re: 1992 Faded Red Paint

I have a 1991 Toyota MR2 that suffered from oxidation for years. Once the paint is that old there is little you can do besides a repaint to permanently correct the progression of oxidation.

You might try a polish and apply one of the newer coatings like Opticoat 2.0. This leaves a thicker layer of protection (about as thick as a clear-coat) that at the same time contains the same UV protection usually afforded by clear-coats. This may well offer a longer term solution to the progression of oxidation. Cheaper than a repaint.

[Don]

Re: 1992 Faded Red Paint

then #7, but let it soak into the paint, will be a PIA to remove but worth it, maybe 2 coats if necessary.

There is a trick to removing #7 that has been applied heavily and allowed to soak...more #7. Simply place a small amount of #7 on a clean applicator and apply to a section of the panel, until it dissolves the previously applied coating of #7. Then while it's still damp, remove it with a clean soft mf. Voila, no intense rubbing required and you get all the benefits of the #7 soak.

[Michael Ens]

Re: 1992 Faded Red Paint

Ladies and gentlemen, I think we've found a satisfied customer. Dont waste your money on turtle wax...

[Michael Stoops]

Re: 1992 Faded Red Paint

The problem isn't with the application process at all, and it's not the fault of the product, either. Ultimate Compound is just that - a compound. It will remove oxidized paint and other defects quite effectively, either by hand or with a buffer - obviously it's going to be easier with a buffer but hand application is a viable option. But what it won't do is protect the paint, and once you've removed the oxidation and other below surface issues you really need to protect the paint. Without protection that paint is totally exposed to the elements, and since it's already been compromised with time, it's going to revert back to an oxidized state pretty quickly the second time around. Even more so if the oxidation removal process wasn't as complete as it might have been, which is easy to do when working by hand.

The lubricating agents in the compound will also help to temporarily mask the problems, but that material will go away pretty quickly, as you've found out. Again, not the fault of the product (and we understand that nobody here really thinks this is the case) as you could apply #7 alone to this paint and make a noticeable, but very short lived, improvement as well. In that case the heavy polishing oil load would dramatically mask the oxidation but it would be very short lived indeed. Removal of the oxidized paint can take a bit of work, especially by hand, and it's vital to ensure that you've really removed it fully, which UC will do (#7 won't). You can then follow with #7 to get a healthy dose of those oils back into the pores of the paint prior to applying a wax or sealant. We'd recommend going with a couple coats of a good full synthetic like Ultimate Wax or NXT.

This finish is going to require more frequent maintenance from here on it, however, but that should mean nothing more than regular proper washing and the application of a light cleaner wax every few months. You can top that cleaner wax with Ultimate or NXT as well.

The only real exception here is if the car originally had a clear coat and now it's gone completely from the horizontal surfaces. If that's the case, then nothing is going to last more than a few weeks no matter what you use, or how you apply it. And that's because in a base coat/clear coat paint system the base (color) coat isn't designed to hold a gloss. All the gloss comes from the clear coat, and once that's gone the only fix is a repaint.