"Wax Removal Pad" for DA Polisher?

[Boba]

Hi guys,

I have a PC DA polisher and currently use the Lake Coutny blue pad to apply the Synthetic Sealant onto my car. However, I use a microfiber towel to remove the wax and have been doing so for the past 3 years. It's very tiring, and I was wondering if there are any "wax removing pads" that I can just easily stick onto my DA polisher and run it over my car to remove the wax? If so, can anyone please recommend me a good brand? Also, for removing the wax, what speed should I use on the DA Polisher? For applying, I use speed 3.

Thanks!

[STRIFE]

Re: "Wax Removal Pad" for DA Polisher?

I'm wondering, how much wax are you applying via DA? If you apply a super thin layer, it really should not be very difficult to buff off the wax with a MF towel.

But if you want to use a MF bonnet, they are avail at ADS, don't think there are any brands though....I bought some 4" MF bonnets but have not used them yet

http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/microfiber-car-polisher-bonnets.html

[Murr1525]

Re: "Wax Removal Pad" for DA Polisher?

Yeah, usually would use a MF pad over the cutting pads.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: "Wax Removal Pad" for DA Polisher?

We used to make microfiber bonnets that slip over 6" foam pads for the removal of hazed wax. But as Strife points out, a properly thin coat of wax applied via DA should wipe off with almost no effort. If done right, wiping off the wax with a microfiber towel by hand should be less work than running a buffer back over it all. Consider too that it's easy to be overly aggressive when removing wax with a bonnet over a pad with a DA - so much so that it's easy to remove that little bit of protection you actually want to leave behind. Plus, you can't always get into tighter areas to remove all the wax with a pad on a DA and you end up going back over things by hand anyway.

There are a few things that might be going on here that are conspiring against you:

1. using too much product - a DA should make it very easy to apply a super thin coat, and we've measured usage as small as 0.5 ounces of liquid wax to cover an entire car. Overusing wax just means it takes longer to dry, it can become very difficult to remove, and you're basically wasting product as a thick application yields no more protection than a thin one does
2. not letting the wax dry long enough - old school heavy carnauba paste waxes can be a pain to remove under almost any circumstance, but modern carnauba waxes and especially synthetic sealants are very easy to wipe off when fully dry. That whole concept of letting the wax dry fully is counter intuitive to people used to those old school carnaubas, but modern waxes really are easier to remove when allowed to dry fully. Of course, a properly thin application helps this tremendously
3. really need do nothing more than simply wipe off the residue, and maybe flip the towel and wipe again - that's it. If you're inclined to continually and quickly "buff" the surface so as to bring up a brighter shine, you can break that tiring habit right now. Continued "buffing" of the paint while removing wax will gain nothing in terms of gloss, may very well remove that last bit of protection you intended to leave with the wax, and it creates a ton of work that you just don't need to do. We aren't buffing a pair of dress boots in the Marine Corps here, we're just taking off some hazed wax. Don't make the job any harder than it needs to be.

These are the common mistakes we see people make, and admit to, during our training classes and seminars. Any one of these on its own can create unnecessary work, but combining two or more jumps that effort up dramatically.

[waxyboard]

Re: "Wax Removal Pad" for DA Polisher?

Being a total noob, I had used the quick detail spray and a MF cloth on the hood, and I also clayed some kind of droppings off a few areas. I later noticed that condensation occured on those spots, where the rest of hood was waxed it looked good. I didn't realize how easily wax is removed.

[Murr1525]

Re: "Wax Removal Pad" for DA Polisher?

Do you mean the drops of dew were different?

That could be from the oils of the QD remaining on the surface.

[Boba]

Re: "Wax Removal Pad" for DA Polisher?

Thanks guys for the answers, and thanks so much for clarifying up some misconceptions i've had regarding waxing, Michael!

I use elbow grease to remove the wax because I was waxing "blindly." Reason is, I have a white car, so it was nearly impossible to see the coat of wax. All i could do was guess if the wax dried up yet or not. How do i wax a white car? Would a worklight such as the Craftsman reveal the wax on the paint after I apply it on?

[Blumax1]

Re: "Wax Removal Pad" for DA Polisher?

We used to make microfiber bonnets that slip over 6" foam pads for the removal of hazed wax. But as Strife points out, a properly thin coat of wax applied via DA should wipe off with almost no effort. If done right, wiping off the wax with a microfiber towel by hand should be less work than running a buffer back over it all. Consider too that it's easy to be overly aggressive when removing wax with a bonnet over a pad with a DA - so much so that it's easy to remove that little bit of protection you actually want to leave behind. Plus, you can't always get into tighter areas to remove all the wax with a pad on a DA and you end up going back over things by hand anyway.

There are a few things that might be going on here that are conspiring against you:

1. using too much product - a DA should make it very easy to apply a super thin coat, and we've measured usage as small as 0.5 ounces of liquid wax to cover an entire car. Overusing wax just means it takes longer to dry, it can become very difficult to remove, and you're basically wasting product as a thick application yields no more protection than a thin one does
2. not letting the wax dry long enough - old school heavy carnauba paste waxes can be a pain to remove under almost any circumstance, but modern carnauba waxes and especially synthetic sealants are very easy to wipe off when fully dry. That whole concept of letting the wax dry fully is counter intuitive to people used to those old school carnaubas, but modern waxes really are easier to remove when allowed to dry fully. Of course, a properly thin application helps this tremendously
3. really need do nothing more than simply wipe off the residue, and maybe flip the towel and wipe again - that's it. If you're inclined to continually and quickly "buff" the surface so as to bring up a brighter shine, you can break that tiring habit right now. Continued "buffing" of the paint while removing wax will gain nothing in terms of gloss, may very well remove that last bit of protection you intended to leave with the wax, and it creates a ton of work that you just don't need to do. We aren't buffing a pair of dress boots in the Marine Corps here, we're just taking off some hazed wax. Don't make the job any harder than it needs to be.

These are the common mistakes we see people make, and admit to, during our training classes and seminars. Any one of these on its own can create unnecessary work, but combining two or more jumps that effort up dramatically.

Mr. Stoops, I'm sure that I'm missing something but could you please provide an answer to my question. I want to use a DA foam pad to both apply and remove sealer from my truck. What pads should I use to accomplish this task?

[davey g-force]

Re: "Wax Removal Pad" for DA Polisher?

You would use a black finishing pad to apply the wax.

If you really must remove with a DA, the recommended pad was a burgundy pad, covered with a MF bonnet. But Meguiars don't make the MF bonnets any more, so maybe you can source from another supplier?

[Blumax1]

Re: "Wax Removal Pad" for DA Polisher?

You would use a black finishing pad to apply the wax.

If you really must remove with a DA, the recommended pad was a burgundy pad, covered with a MF bonnet. But Meguiars don't make the MF bonnets any more, so maybe you can source from another supplier?

Thank you for the info.