Got a few questions

[SpoolMe]

What is your opinion on using UC on glass? I did mine by hand, before waxing, and it seemed to clean it up good, but I want to check with you all before I do others cars. I want to try to do the windows with the DA soon, maybe polish would be a better choice?


Can anyone link to videos of professionals using a DA? I can explore the tool myself, but i just want to see others techniques. (i.e How to work the pad around sharp turns/angles in the cars body)


I feel like I'm going to be using A LOT of tape during each detail, is it adviised to just tape everything off whenever you need to? (i.e. I'd like to apply hyper dressing to my trim, but i always end up getting some on my windows/paint) (just want to make sure the tape doesnt tarnish the paint)


Which pad should I use on the headlights? I was thinking a finishing pad + plastx ?




Thanks in advance... the answers you all provide help more than you know. I'll be doing my first detail with the DA on sunday, pics will be up soon after. I borrowed a decent camera so hopefully i can produce some good eye candy

[Marc08EX]

Re: Got a few questions

Yes, using UC on glass is perfectly fine and safe. In fact, Mike Stoops did it in one of last year's TNOG sessions:

You've got water spots on glass that just don't want to budge. What do you do to fix that?


Get a little creative - grab a bottle of Ultimate Compound and kill those water spots!


And just like that, the water spots are gone.

Thread Link: Pictures from Thursday Night Open Garage - March, 15th 2012

As for using the DA on curved panels, here's an excerpt from an article Mike Stoops wrote:

Do your best to avoid moving off a curved panel like this; This is bad form.


Roll with it - follow the panel curves rather than moving off onto the edge of the pad.

Thread Link: DA Buffing 101 - An Introduction to the G110v2 (and-similar)

Generally, you tape off plastic trim and moldings because those things are a PITA to clean up if compound/polish/wax (except ultimate liquid wax) hits those. So you tape off trim to protect them during the detailing process and avoiding the hardships of cleaning it up after.

For the headlights, it really depends on the condition of your headlights. If it's only mildly damaged then I would use plastiX but if it's heavily oxidized then I would use Ultimate Compound or maybe even sand it first. But I would use the yellow polishing pad instead of the finishing pad to get more bite.

I hope all these helps.

[SpoolMe]

Re: Got a few questions

Thanks ! Good advice.

[Detailing by M]

Re: Got a few questions

I wouldn't use any compound on the Windshield. Due to the thousands of tiny chips in a Windshield and it can get stuck in those chips.
The only time I'd ever use a compound on glass is when all my other water spot removers would work and I haven't come across that yet.
I Nano Skin all my customers glass then wax with D156.
This combo has produces clean, shiny protected glass.
When I return to wash or re-detail the cars my customer always comment on how there glass stays clean and water beads off easily.

[SpoolMe]

Re: Got a few questions

Hmmm what is nano skin?

[C8N]

Re: Got a few questions

^ Nanoskin is a brand name much like Meguiar's

[SpoolMe]

Re: Got a few questions

Couple more;


When working towards the bottom of a car, do you folks tend to sit on the ground, or on your knees etc? Im trying to decide if I should buy a stool... or knee pads... lol Sounds dumb, just not sure how to go about it.


Also, when i go to remove wax, it"s usually pretty 'dry' and hard to take off. I feel like it may drag too much on the paint. 1) Is that normal? 2) If it is, will it damage the paint?


I cant be the only one who gets dried white in cracks, around badges and other tight places. What tool do you all use to clean this out?

[Detailing by M]

Re: Got a few questions

Hmmm what is nano skin?

Rubber instead of clay

http://www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-autoscrub-system.html

Couple more;


When working toward the bottom of a car, do you folks tend to sit on the ground, or on your knees etc? Im trying to decide if I should buy a stool... or knee pads... lol Sounds dumb, just not sure how to go about it.


Also, when i go to remove wax, it"s usually pretty 'dry' and hard to take off. I feel like it may drag too much on the paint. 1) Is that normal? 2) If it is, will it damage the paint?

I use a "gardening" pad. a little piece of foam with a handle. No knee pads! you'll endup hitting the car with those!

Wax removal:
You putting too much on. When you wax you want a micro thin layer left behind. When I wax I use very little product. You don't have to "cake" it on. Your wasting product, money and time when removing.

[s word]

Re: Got a few questions

Rubber instead of clay

http://www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-autoscrub-system.html

I just read a detailerdomain.com writeup of a 911 http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-back-to-life. detail where the autoscrub pad marred the paint pretty bad. But they said that was due to soft Porsche paint. I have a Lake Country clay pad which I have been hesitant to use. the good ol' fashion way of claying by hand has never really given me any issue. Where is this going...my point is what is the noticed benefit of the autoscrub pad or towel? just a faster clay? I feel like clay is a very tactile process and automating it could lead to marring and further issues like seen in the 911 write up. To put in other detailing terms I feel like this could be like using a Rupes 21 w/ 6" MF pad with M101 when a DAPS with yellow foam pad and UC would do. Or do i have it all wrong and mis-perceived because of the one use of autoscrub i read about?

[C8N]

Re: Got a few questions

I've also read couple of instances where clay alternatives marred soft paint. Even with the Meg's white clay, if I get aggressive, it will leaving some marring on my paint. I definitely see the benefits of the clay alternatives but for me personally, I have no choice but to stick to fine grade clay.

[Detailing by M]

Re: Got a few questions

Auto Scrubber and Speedy Prep towel can be used while your washing. There fore saves an hour of work. and your arm.
Also the Auto Scrubber is a Machine Powered Paint De-Contamination Process and saves your arms. Especialy on a Huge VAN or SUV (Expadition, Taho XL)

When ever I come across a FILTHY car it gets scrubbed clean, very clean.
I use the towel on "normal" cars while I wash. It does a great job. and saves me an hour opposed to using clay.
Another benefit of using rubber is that you can use it on glass and plastic. Remember EVERYTHING is contaminated and not just the paint. So if your not "claying" the glass, plastic or metal then your not cleaning everything thoroughly.
Also if you drop the towel on the ground you don't have to throw it away like clay. Saves you money right there. I've dropped about $40 bucks worth of clay.

As far as a Porsche goes. I might use the towel but more likely I would waterless wash and use clay as most Porsche are garaged and not very contaminated. So an aggressive paint de-contamination wouldn't be needed.

Most paint loves Rubber and only a few don't. And as with everything you have to test it out before you do the whole car.
Rubber and Clay have there place in my tool box, not everything works on everything.

Here's my van and an older Celia that needed a good scrubbing and clay wouldn't have done nearly as good of a good as my Auto Scrubber did.

Look close at the soapy bubble. They are full of dirt that didn't wash off and needed to be scrubbed out





The glass wash dirty too. no shine, water spots. A good scrubbing was just what it needed




If you've ever done an A pillar on an older car with clay you know the rubber turns your clay black an you don't clean out deteriorated rubber. With a SPT you can rub over an A pillar with no worried of ruining the SPT.

[s word]

Re: Got a few questions

Wow thanks. Very informative.

So let me see if I got this right...just because I am slightly confused as to how you would do this while washing.

Do you....?

Pre 1) steps are assumed to be correct
1) spray car with soap
2) use wash mitt to remove contaminants
3) rinse
4) spray again with soap
5) use autoscrub
6) rinse off and start rest of process


or do you...?
Pre 1) steps are assumed to be correct
1) spray car with soap
2) use autoscrub or autoscrub towel as wash mitt to remove contaminants
3) rinse off and start rest of process

The second one to me seems like the only way to really save a good amount of time but my issue is other than spraying soap on the car you are not removing much before rubbing the surface with these products which in my head i see as being able to scratch the car somewhat significantly.

I have hard paint so maybe some of these tools will make it too my tool box, once i use up all the clay i have.

Also you do mention great benefits like non-loss if dropped, the pillars...

[Detailing by M]

Re: Got a few questions

Rinse
wash
scrub
rinse

I'm not worried about any "damage" I do to the paint. I'm going to correct anything after scrubbing.
The dirt on the surface is removed when I wash so I'm not worried about the dirt scratching the paint.

[Murr1525]

Re: Got a few questions

Keep in mind that what may need done to a customers car (or what is pretty much expected to be needed every time on a customers car) may not need done to yours, or not everytime, or milder versions of things, etc.

[Detailing by M]

Re: Got a few questions

Keep in mind that what may need done to a customers car (or what is pretty much expected to be needed every time on a customers car) may not need done to yours, or not everytime, or milder versions of things, etc.

Already said that.

....
Most paint loves Rubber and only a few don't. And as with everything you have to test it out before you do the whole car.
Rubber and Clay have there place in my tool box, not everything works on everything......