Saturation Application or Conditioning with M#7

[SkipG]

The technique of using a saturation application or conditioning with M#7 normally applies to porous single stage paints. I have a 97 Toyota that is soaking up and drying Ultimate Polish so fast I can’t work the polish. I have never used M#7 and attempting to condition the paint, any suggestions before I attempt? I have read that letting the M7 dry can cause removal to be very difficult. Thanks, SkipG

[Blueline]

Re: Saturation Application or Conditioning with M#7

It may be the atmosphere that is drying the UP. It is especially difficult to remove if it dries. Paint, especially a clear coated paint, does not absorb anything. Conditioning paint is a fallacy. One can coat it in wax, protect it somewhat, but not condition it.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Saturation Application or Conditioning with M#7

What is the current condition of the paint on this '97 Toyota? If you're potentially dealing with the beginnings of clear coat failure then there may not be anything you can do at all with it. We've seen UP and other products be difficult to wipe off on certain paints, when normally they're just a breeze to use. Our former COO had a Jet Black BMW M3 that everything stuck to like glue - even M205 was a royal pain in the backside to use on it. Many of the newest Subarus are notorious for what's generally referred to as "sticky" paint - everything just clings to it (or rather, it clings to everything!) and wipe off is usually very frustrating. Add to that those Suby paints often scratch easily and you've got all kinds of fun with them!

I once detailed a Ferrari 360 with badly neglected paint that hated M105 - it instantly turned into a gummy mess and was unusable even though a Superformance Cobra right next to it in the same garage loved the stuff. What I'm getting at is that not all paint is created equal and sometimes you find a situation where a specific product just doesn't agree with that particular paint. You might want to look into M205 as an alternative.

As far as paint being porous or absorbent to any degree, it most certainly is. To an extremely small level, but there is no doubt that it is. Modern clear coat is a highly elastic material, and we've seen countless situations where solvent based compounds can cause a temporary swelling of the paint - the point where sanding marks are visibly removed even after an IPA wipe down, only to return after the last of the solvents have blown off and the paint contracts back down. We've even been able to measure a temporary increase in paint thickness following correction with solvent based compounds, even though no appreciable heat was introduced to the paint. While any porosity or ability for paint to hold any solvents or oils is very slight and very short lived, it does indeed happen.

[twisty roads]

Re: Saturation Application or Conditioning with M#7

Having a Subaru myself, I can attest to what Michal Stoops is saying about differences in paint. I use Meguiars products and G110v2 DA on all my cars (single stage and clear coat), or that is what I try 1st. Unfortunately, on the Subaru, Menzerna SF 4000 works the best as I found Meg UP to leave oils behind and "smear". I would recommend doing small testing panels (2' x2') to see what the best process is for that paint (2 passes, 4 passes). Also try spraying detail spray on the pad (1 quick spray about 6 inches away) to prime the pad on the 1st set of passes

[QUOTE=Michael Stoops;565589]What is the current condition of the paint on this '97 Toyota? If you're potentially dealing with the beginnings of clear coat failure then there may not be anything you can do at all with it. We've seen UP and other products be difficult to wipe off on certain paints, when normally they're just a breeze to use. Our former COO had a Jet Black BMW M3 that everything stuck to like glue - even M205 was a royal pain in the backside to use on it. Many of the newest Subarus are notorious for what's generally referred to as "sticky" paint - everything just clings to it (or rather, it clings to everything!) and wipe off is usually very frustrating. Add to that those Suby paints often scratch easily and you've got all kinds of fun with them!QUOTE]

[SkipG]

Re: Saturation Application or Conditioning with M#7

Thank You for the reply. The beginning of a clear coat failure is very likely, but I am not 100% sure. I hoped to use the M7 as a prep, then apply the new Paint Protect. I understand the only way to correct clear coat failure is a new paint job, just trying to preserve the existing paint, not sure the car value justifies new paint but the car still looks pretty good, runs great with more than 200k and 18 years of service. Thanks again, SkipG