Another Ultimate Quik Wax Question(s)

[The Guz]

Re: Another Ultimate Quik Wax Question(s)

Based on reading about using UQW to help the drying process I used it the last time I washed my Silver Mazda 3 with Ultimate Wash and Wax. I use UWW because I haven't been able to clean out the other half of my garage for this car, so it sits outside. Spraying a mist of UQW on the car after "flush/flood" rinsing cut my drying efforts in half or so it felt! I didn't have to take a second or third pass with my Meguiar's Waffle Weave Microfiber Towels to get all the water off. It only took one pass. So I am definitely going to keep doing this when I am only going to wash the car and not move on to claying or polishing.

On the subject of claying, I read some where on the forum when researching D115, Rinse Free Express Wash and Wax, the commercial version of Ultimate Wash and Wax Anywhere, that you should not use UQW or RFEWW/UWWWA on you car before claying, because it will cause the clay to break down. From this is may be obvious, but I am going to ask the question anyway. If I intend to clay, polish and wax my car after washing it, then I presume that I should not use D156/UQW or RFEWWA/UWWA to help the drying process. Is this presumption correct? If I can't use D156/UQW or RFEWWA/UWWA to help the drying process can I use D135/Ultimate Quick Detailer instead to help with the drying process? I will use Quick Detailer as a lubricant for the claying process.

Guz, what brand of "plush drying towels" do you like to use instead of waffle weaves? I have the Meguiar's Microfibers and while they are great, they don't strike me as "plush". I have used them to clean my car with UWWA and buff out my wax and polish and they work great.

Thank you for the time you take to answer my questions.

I am using the edgeless plush drying towel from the rag company. I prefer them over a waffle weave drying towel. The reason for that is I notice less marring with a plush towel compared to a waffle weave. Especially when doing a rinseless. I don't use the Meguiar's supreme shine microfiber towels at all for drying. They don't soak up water very well. I use the supreme shine's for compound, polishes, waxes and spray waxes.

The reason to not use UQW/D156, M135/UQD or D115, is that the protection they offer can hinder the removal of surface contaminants. The polymers are pretty durable especially with UQW/D156. Also UQD.M135 is not recommended for claying because the polymers in it are to slick for the clay bar to remove surface contaminants. So skip these drying aids when you are going to clay, polish and wax your vehicle.

[Murr1525]

Re: Another Ultimate Quik Wax Question(s)

If you are going to be correcting and claying, really don't need a perfect dry car, unless you have hard water or hot sun.

I'll just clay as the car is still wet and use less QD spray as lube..... the wipe after clay counts as drying.

[Top Gear]

Re: Another Ultimate Quik Wax Question(s)

Personally, I've never understood how adding more liquid to a surface I'm trying to get liquid off of somehow helps the situation. Lol.

The more liquid there is on the paint after I sheet, the more I have to touch the paint. And in the case of adding spray wax, I not only have to touch the paint, now I have to rub it in because spray wax doesn't just absorb into a waffle weave like pure water does... Not only that, but do I really want my dedicated drying towels full of spray wax? I'd much rather do any kind of "rubbing" of spray wax with a plush microfiber towel instead of a coarser waffle weave. That's why I've never subscribed to the whole "drying aid" method.

If I need a drying aid, I'll reach for my Master Blaster Sidekick or leafblower.

Just my 2 cents.

Gee, if I'd said that, Eldo, the regulars here would all be freakin' out

Once again, flooding, waffle-weaves, QW drying, these are tips for people who live in deserts (which LA and LV have admittedly a lot of people and detailers). Come to the Southeast, South, Northeast, Midwest, or many of the other millions of areas around the world, and it's a different story. In the humid environment of the Southeast, if you spray QW on a wet car (yes, flooding will still leave a very wet car) I'll enjoy watching you wipe that thing off for the next several hours while the mosquitoes bite. Knock yourself out. That waffle weave will be a soppy mess, spreading water more than drying it. Worse still, you'll still have water spots all over the car. It is very rare the air is arid enough (and that's usually when it's very windy) in much of the world to count on any of these "Southern California" techniques.

Instead, I use an electric leaf blower. It's fast (5-10 minutes) and works every time. Because of spotting, I do not spray water on the car unless I can either blow it dry immediately, or in rare cases when I can get on the road for a quick dry after a simple rinse (say to quickly rinse off pollen, then a quick drive, followed by a UWWA wipe-down).

Deuce, although I use GCQW, you can't really use a QW too often. The one caveat is that it can build up and create "wipe holograms" if the air is too humid or rags aren't clean or if you don't have a clean surface. I use it only after a bucket wash and blow dry or a waterless wash. QW is your first line of defense to protect your correction and boost your DA/hand wax, and makes the hobby fun with quick results. It's great for trim, glass, plastics, and even around the interior

[Eldorado2k]

Re: Another Ultimate Quik Wax Question(s)

@Top Gear. I' e begun to learn what you guys mean about drying aids.. While I still don't normally use them, I can see where they can sometimes help.