Clearcoat Burn

[zey]

Hi all, I would like to know what's the look of a burnt clearcoat paintwork (metallic grey finish). Can someone confirm with me that it's like below:

1) Blur surface, loss of gloss, rough texture

2) Using foam pad with Scratch-X will make the foam pad greyish (Is this due to basecoat removal?)

Any help on this? Thanks...

[Tim Lingor]

Re: Clearcoat Burn

Originally posted by zey
Hi all, I would like to know what's the look of a burnt clearcoat paintwork (metallic grey finish). Can someone confirm with me that it's like below:

1) Blur surface, loss of gloss, rough texture

2) Using foam pad with Scratch-X will make the foam pad greyish (Is this due to basecoat removal?)

Any help on this? Thanks...

Hi Zey,

Oh-oh. Is the rest of the paint BC/CC? Most of the time, if you burnt through the clear, the paint will look dull in that spot. If it is and you are pulling color from the one spot, you have probably hit the BC.

Tim

[zey]

Hi Tim, really appreciate for your swift response. It is a 2000 year old factory 2-stage paint job. Was performing polishing using #83/W-8006/1200rpm at this C-pillar. The burn spot is very close to the edge near the roof. The blur spot is 2" in diameter. I bet the paint is ultra-thin near the edges. LESSON LEARNT!!!

[Rick]

Ouch! Don't feel too bad, I did the same thing once. The car was being sold so it wasn't like I ruined anything too special. I think we ended up applying some #9 by hand to the spot and leaving half of it on the surface and it looked better. Good enough to get out the door anyways.

[rusty bumper]

I went through the clear on my Toyota's roof a while back. About the only thing I could do for it was to apply #7.

[zey]

Rusty Bumper, sorry to hear that too. I would like to know if the clearcoat is gone, it also means the UV protection is no longer there. Will the basecoat fade and crack very soon?

[rusty bumper]

The base coat is not meant to be exposed to the elements, as it is very soft.

The paint will eventually fade on you, but #7 should help slow the process down IMO.

This may sound ridiculous, but I wonder if that small area can be cleared again?

I wouldn't try to blend it in with the rest of the clear, but I wonder if you could tape off the area around the spot, and repaint the clear coat there.

I'm sure it would stand out around the edges, but some wet sanding could help to make the edges less noticable. Either that, or just have the whole body part recleared again.

How big is the body part anyway?

[zey]

I was thinking of repainting just that particular, I know a bodyshop which is competent to do so. That part is on C-pillar, connected to the roof, so I would say it's a very large piece.

[rusty bumper]

If you repaint the area, then make sure they don't try to blend in the clear coat. I had my clear coat blended in one time, and it looked good for a while. But later on, the blended area began to look very ugly.....It almost looked like they tried to use a paint brush or something.

[zey]

Gosh! Why is that so? The clearcoat sinks? Or they never level the clearcoat around that area before spraying a new layer of clearcoat?

[rusty bumper]

Originally posted by zey
Gosh! Why is that so? The clearcoat sinks? Or they never level the clearcoat around that area before spraying a new layer of clearcoat?

I'm sure they tried to level the clear coat, as a matter of fact, I remember having to take the car back for wet sanding too.

The owner told me lately, that they don't blend in clear coat anymore, due to the kind of problem that I just mentioned earlier.

The last time I had any repainting done, they painted the clear coat all the way down to a break in the body part.......Like a pin stripe or something like that.

Maybe some of the others will give their opinion on the matter here too, because I certainly don't know everything there is to know about bodyshop work.

[Rick]

To my understanding the problem with just adding some clear on top is the bonding. When you paint a car you lay down the base coat, let it get tacky but not dry then lay down the clear. As it dries the layers bond together to ensure long term durability. If you reduce either wrong they may not hold together.

I've talked to an air brush toucher, she won't try and add clear on top of a buffer burn. So if that says anything.

[BartonGink]

The new clearcoat can't chemically bond to the fully cured old clearcoat so the edge starts to lift after time. There is a certain technique and certain type of clearcoat used for blending, but it can be done properly so that it's not noticeable.