Applying wax/polish - how much? drys too quick? Tips?

[BeachDude]

I love the look of Meguiar's - but I hate spending 3+ hours on my car. In the beginning it was fun but soon I realized that a good looking car doesn't happen in less than 2 hours.

When I apply polish or wax with a rotary buffer - I'm using a wax pad (as apposed to the terry cloth ones I remove it with). But I find the products always seem to dry or run out before I move onto the next section. For the record, its cool to the touch, but warm air (in shade or indoors..never in the sun) when I do this.

Its always goes on too thick initially and then by the time I've moved over to a new section the pad seems dry.

Should i wet the pads first with water? What is the proper amount of wax/polish you should see? Should it be heavy enough you see it? or is a very faint almost nothing look better? its getting the right amount / coverage/thickness that I'm having issues with.

How often does one stop to apply more to the pad? or should I just keep moving even though it doesn't look like its applying anything?

Tips? Tricks?

[Mike Phillips]

Just to be sure because sometimes people call a tool by the wrong name,

Below is a rotary buffer,




Here is a couple of different styles of Orbital Buffers,




And here's a dual action polisher like Meguiar's G100




Now you say you're applying your polishes and waxes with a rotary buffer?

[BeachDude]

Its an orbital

I'm using a 6" orbital buffer (has only one speed - not very fast...not very slow).

And I use 3 different pads... one to apply (flat and soft/smooth)... another looks like terry cloth (to remove)...and a third (big and fluffy for polishing).

Its the application that I'm having issues with.

[Mike Phillips]

In my opinion, I can apply and remove any product to a car's finish faster and more effectively by hand, while using less product, (with orbitals you waste a lot of product saturating the bonnets), than I can with any orbital buffer.

Your signature line includes a link to a Del Sol? Is this what you primarily work on?

If so, once you do a good job the first time of claying the finish and using a paint cleaner, detailing sessions after this should only require apply a wax like NXT to maximize your car's finish.

Depending on where the car is parked, you may have to clay periodically and use a paint cleaner, but that all depends on the climate and environment in which you park and drive your car.

You could also switch to a cleaner/wax like Meguiar's Cleaner/Wax which surprises most people in how really well it works as it cleans, polishes and protects in one application and it creates a deep, dark clear reflective finish. (It's been around since 1973! There's a reason for this.)

Also, no matter what product you're using, thin coats are better than thick coats. Thick coats just waste product and make removal difficult.

Hope this helps...

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Its an orbital

Originally posted by BeachDude
I'm using a 6" orbital buffer (has only one speed - not very fast...not very slow).

Glad we figured this one out before going down the wrong trail! There is a huge difference between a rotary buffer and an orbital buffer.

[BeachDude]

Application by hand, then buff???

Yeah the link is to my car (my baby). She just got a new paintjob so I've been care to wait before waxing. While I welcome the break, I miss spending hours on it.

So if I apply wax or polish by hand - should I moisten the cloth first? or saturate it with the product?

How much should I work into the paint? just a quick swipe over the paint or should I really work/rub it to ensure it "bonds" correctly? What kind of time should I spend on an area before moving to the next?

Finally - I can see the merrit in hand application - but when removing it - is a buffing it out prefered...or should I just toss out my orbital and do everything by hand?