Grade my Homework Please!!!

[Hannibal]

I am going to get a G100A along with
DC#2, #80, #83
Quick Clay
W7006, W8006, W9006 Pads
MF bonnets

I already have the basics (GC paste, MF towels, Etc) I am working on a dark green metallic 2001 silverado that has very nice paint on it, with exception of a few scratches, and light swirling. I want to make a nice mirror shine as I have now have learned that the way I was washing the truck was causing the spiderwebs. Also when I picked the truck up from the delaer (had 38K on it) 4 months ago, SOMEONE used a shop rag and really rubbed the **** out of the hood where the bugs usually splat, and left several scratches. I have used scratch-x and GC wax and it looks "Great" from 50 feet away, but up close its there, you know what I mean? I am a very meticulous person and I want a great finish, because it has great paint except for the scratches.

SO..... I want to get a fresh clean slate and I have researched and have come up with the following formula:

1. Wash (Gold Class using 2 bucket system and grit guard)
2. Clay (meguiars Quik Clay)
3. #80 "OR" #83 as situation requires. I will try #80 first.
4. DC#2 (Is this a redundant step if I use #83?)
5. Wax (Gold Class)

DO I really need to use any of the DC steps if I am using the #80, or #82? I really like the sound of using a pure polish as a prep for my wax. I will be using only top of the line Meguiars MF towels, MF wash Mop, MF wash mit, GC terry towels etc.

Any thoughts??

[Shiny Lil Detlr]

There's no real "need" for the DC2.... I think if anything I'd use #5 or #7 in place of the DC2; both perform a basically equivalent function, and IMO the look of both #5 and #7 out-shine the DC2, especially on Chevy's emerald green metallic. I would also say you should consider putting NXT or #21 on instead of GC wax; the durability and look are superior, IMO.

This is my old emerald green, prepped with 83, then straight to 5 and topped with NXT:

[Hannibal]

I guess I dont want to have to do this many times. I was thinking once a year I would do a good thorough paint clean and polish. waxing twice a year, and washing twice a month or so. Thanks for input!!!

Anyone other thoughts on DC#2?? Is #7 better? Or by using #83 I can skip the polish and go straight to wax??

Thanks!!!!

[Djmigs]

w/ Shiny LIl Detailer

1. if you go from 80 and it not cutting it then you need to bump to 83 but remember you need to bring it back to 80 now from here is up to you ....you can go straight to waxing.....but if it was me since you are doing alll this work you might as well do the extra step ( you will notice it at the end and thank yourself for that extra step) and add a polish(depends on your flavor) i would recommend #7 or #5 (from what i hear five applies on and off easier) then a wax of your choice....if you want to wax once every six months or so you should go with a sealant for example #21.....

remember a compound and polish does not needc to dry like wax wipe on and wipe off thats it......

[Hannibal]

So you think I should use a sealant? Does that go on "AFTER" I wax? Please explain!!
Thanks a Bunch!!

PS WHat do you think of this stuff?

https://www.meguiars.com/?pro-pure-polishes/Body-Shop-Professional-Hand-Polish

[Shiny Lil Detlr]

Originally posted by Djmigs
bump to 83 but remember you need to bring it back to 80

Well, yes and no. You don't always have to follow 83 with 80, depending on how well you work it in.... I rarely end up going back to 80 after the 83.

As far as I know, the diminishing abrasives in 83 break down to about the same point as 80, so unless you aren't fully working the polish, there won't be any hazing. Really it's a judgement call you have to make on a case-by-case basis.

[Hannibal]

Ok, has anyone tried this stuff? I was thinking after the #80 or #83, I would polish with this:

https://www.meguiars.com/?pro-pure-polishes/Body-Shop-Professional-Hand-Polish

Then wax.

[Shiny Lil Detlr]

Man, that's overkill. Hand polish (M81) is another abrasive polish. If anything you want a PURE polish like M05 or M07, which has no abrasives, just oils.

Let's make this easy for you. You don't want to have to touch your car too often, it doesn't look like, so here's what you'll want to buy for paint care:

G100A /w several W-8006 and W-9006 pads
Megs Quik Clay
M83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish
M80 Speed Glaze
M05 New Car Glaze
M21 Synthetic Sealant
Megs NXT Car Wash

Your process would go as follows:

1) NXT Wash
2) Quik Clay
3) NXT Wash
4) M83 (DACP) /w W-8006 on G-100A
5) M80 (SG) /w W-8006 on G-100A
6) M05 (NCG) /w W-9006 on G-100A
7) M21 (SS) /w W-9006 on G-100A

For maintenance just wash it with the NXT Wash. Whenever you do your in-between waxing (without the full polishing procedure) just apply the M21 on its own.

It's not the ideal (ideal would mean that you need to do more work to it, more often) but it will keep it protected.

[Alex]

M8132 - It appears in the pure polishes section

(meguiars.com description) Hand Polish is an incredibly rich polish that produces a deep, wet-look shine. Achieves a perfectly smooth finish. Replenishes essential oils lost through oxidation. Adds remarkable depth of color and gloss on dark paints.


I thought that it would be a good followup for #80 or #83.
So is it an abrasive polish or a pure polish?

[sneek]

lol am i the only person who likes DC2
even if its not that effective its pretty cheap

[Tim Lingor]

Hey,

Meguiar's #81 Hand Polish (M-8132) is a pure polish that was designed with BC/CC paint in mind. I personally use it, #3 or #7 on every detail that I do!!!

Tim

[RamAirV1]

#81 is more of a pure polish. It would not be classified as abrasive. It has virtually no cleaning ability at all. When I had my black TA, I used #81 right before waxing. It is comparable in gloss and depth to #7, while being easier to use on clearcoats.

RamAirV1

[sneek]

2hotford




- posted: Nov 9th, 2005 at 06:03 PM

Car Crazy Super Moderator

Registered: Jan 2004
Location: The Sunny Okanagan, B.C.
Posts: 2591
Status: Offline


am i seeing this right 2hotford
you live in canada??? where do you get ur megs from???