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Working time with #83 and 8006 (by G-100)

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  • Working time with #83 and 8006 (by G-100)

    First off, sorry for the long first post

    I've read many posts on this forum over the last few weeks about #83. There seems to be some conflicting information (to me anyway) on how long to work this product with the G-100. Perhaps it depends on factors that I'm not aware of. I understand that this product is a little more difficult to work with than #80 for example, but I found that certain bad areas on my hood and front required the use of #83 (and even ScratchX by hand) to eliminate or minimize some of the light scratches and etching (followed by #80).

    Some posts suggested that it should be worked for 2-3 minutes. Working on my car over the weekend, I found that anything over about 30 seconds and it was very difficult to remove the product (by hand, MF), i.e. it required a lot of downward pressure.

    My work area was fairly small (about 2 8006's long and 3 wide, so I could make 3 passes long and 5 wide, overlapping by 50%), working with slow arm speed and 10-15 lbs of pressure on the machine. At that speed I made about 4 passes in each direction (front/back, and side/side). I used a thin bead of product in a circle around the edge of the pad and worked in the shade (temp was probably high 80's not too humid). If I worked a bit too long or expanded my area when working, the product became difficult to wipe off; it seemed to dry on the surface.

    All this being said, I think I achieved amazing results with my combination of products and pads. A few defects still remain, but I am uncertain they can be fully removed by me (not a professional). Most are rock chips and scratches that are past the clear coat, or etching (depth unknown). All the swirls that were in the paint are now gone, the etching is vastly improved, and the finish is as smooth as glass (the finishing steps after cleaning were DC#2 by hand and NXTx2 by machine).

    My questions (finally):

    What is the correct working time for #83 under these (or similar) conditions?

    If I worked it much longer than 30 seconds would it eventually become easier to wipe off again (easy, difficult, easy)?

    Should you let the pad become saturated with #83 as you work, or should it be cleaned more often (how often)?

    Am I using too much product (or too little)?


    The main reason I'm wondering these things is because I suspect I could have minimized my use of ScratchX by working better with the #83. I ended up doing large sections of the hood by hand with ScratchX followed by #83, then #80. This could be wrong however as I don't have very much experience with paint cleaning/polishing (yet!). I realize it is also hard to comment given that you can't see the condition of my paint or what I was working on, but any advice is most appreciated. Thanks everybody!

    - Ben

  • #2
    Re: Working time with #83 and 8006 (by G-100)

    Originally posted by Guiser
    My questions (finally):

    What is the correct working time for #83 under these (or similar) conditions?
    Hi Ben,

    Well to tell you the truth, as far as I know, we've never did any buffing for the stated purpose of timing the process to generate any recommended length of buffing times.

    In most cases it's kind of a experience with these guidelines.

    You need to buff long enough to insure the diminishing abrasives have broken down otherwise you risk instilling swirls or marring.

    You don't want to buff so long you go to what we call a dry buff. When you buff so long that the product is dry, gone or dusting, you have lost all your lubricity and now you risk marring or hazing the finish again. So there's a range, or a sweet spot as to how long to buff and this range is going to be different depending upon a bunch of factors including temperature, humidity, skill & experience, work area size, etc.

    Sounds like you have a handle on it now that you've been experimenting with the different products.

    If I worked it much longer than 30 seconds would it eventually become easier to wipe off again (easy, difficult, easy)?
    Maybe, sometimes M83 can become very gummy and difficult to wipe off but this is usually when it's applied with a rotary buffer and either your pad is becoming saturated or you're using too much product and/or both. One thing for sure, if you buff it till it's gone or begins to dust that's a sign you've buffed to a dry buff and this can cause hazing. On light colored cars chances are good you wouldn't see this hazing but on black and dark colored cars it can be easily seen. Point is if it's taking place on dark colored cars it's also taking place on light colored cars it's just that your eyes can see the hazing taking place.

    Should you let the pad become saturated with #83 as you work, or should it be cleaned more often (how often)?
    Clean your pad after each application of product. Just like you wipe the spent residue off the paint before applying fresh product to the pad, before applying fresh product to the pad clean the pad. Do what we call,

    "Cleaning your pad on the fly"

    To do this, use a clean, dry cotton towel and hold it into your foam pad and then turn your polisher on and squish the towel against the pad. This will help to draw out any excess product as well as help to clean the surface of residual product. Like you see in the picture below only in the picture he's using a microfiber polishing cloth. (Terry cloth tends to work better because the cotton fibers are better at absorbing liquids than polyester and nylon fibers).



    Am I using too much product (or too little)?
    In general, most people overuse their products, even I can be guilty of this. It has to do with the mindset of,

    "If a little is good, more is better"

    This is rarely true when it comes to paint care products. When you first start out with a dry pad you can use either two full strips of product in the shape of a X on the pad, or a circle of product around the outside edge of the pad.

    After your initial pass and your pad becomes wet, you can cut your product down by about a third in most cases.
    Mike Phillips
    760-515-0444
    showcargarage@gmail.com

    "Find something you like and use it often"

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Re: Working time with #83 and 8006 (by G-100)

      Originally posted by Mike Phillips
      ...

      Clean your pad after each application of product.

      ...

      After your initial pass and your pad becomes wet, you can cut your product down by about a third in most cases.
      Hi Mike!

      Thanks for the reply. I had no idea I was supposed to clean the pad after every application of #83 or that I could use less after the initial application. I will see if I get better results next time I use it. Are there any other Megs products you know of that are sensitive to the saturation of the pad (or just a general guideline)?

      When I was working I never noticed any hazing (inspecting in garage and in sunlight), but as you said it is very difficult to see defects in my color paint (crystal blue metallic, closer to silver than blue). The sun reflects an awful lot of light from the surface which makes it difficult to see even light swirls (though deeper swirls and scratches show up pretty well). Using the reflection of the blue sky and trying lots of different angles helps sometimes.

      - Ben

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Re: Re: Working time with #83 and 8006 (by G-100)

        Originally posted by Guiser
        Hi Mike!

        Thanks for the reply. I had no idea I was supposed to clean the pad after every application of #83 or that I could use less after the initial application.
        There's no set rule that says you have to clean your pad after each application of product, but if the goal is a flawless finish, then you want to do everything you can to work clean.

        You could clean your pad after every 2nd or 3rd application of product but your pad will become more saturated. Fact is, most people don't clean their pad often enough.
        Mike Phillips
        760-515-0444
        showcargarage@gmail.com

        "Find something you like and use it often"

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Re: Re: Re: Working time with #83 and 8006 (by G-100)

          Originally posted by Mike Phillips
          There's no set rule that says you have to clean your pad after each application of product, but if the goal is a flawless finish, then you want to do everything you can to work clean.

          You could clean your pad after every 2nd or 3rd application of product but your pad will become more saturated. Fact is, most people don't clean their pad often enough.
          This is a good tip that isn't mentioned enough. Thanks for the feedback!

          - Ben

          Comment

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