Acid Rain etch & G-100

[rustyzipper]

Just newly registered and love Meg's products. I joined up on a recommend by the F-150.com forums gang. Kudos to them.

As you can see, (link below) I have the classic acid rain etch, on my hood.

A 2005, Ford F-150 less than 10,000 miles, sits outside 24/7. The rest of the paint is in good shape--clayed, including a coat of #20. I've also done the Rx plus sections which is a fantastic point of reference. Thanks Megs.

I do have a Porter Cable G-100/7424 I'd like to use on the etch. But frankly, I do not know if PC will do the trick without experience using it or knowing which type of pads or products to use. Again, I've never used a DAP

Using the Megs forum thread research, I understand I am to start with the least volatile product and work my way up, starting with the Scratch-X. However, and noting, the problem again lies with the entire hood--reading that Scratch-X is for spot on removal. I understand I can use the DA with the Scratch-X but since this is such a large area I'm wondering if the Scratch-X is the right choice for a starting point abrasive.

Thoughts?

[BlueZero]

Re: Acid Rain etch & G-100

Welcome to MOL!

A good place to start would be here... How To Remove Water Spots

If you still have questions, post away, we are here to help.

Where in MI are you at?

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Acid Rain etch & G-100

Just newly registered and love Meg's products. I joined up on a recommend by the F-150.com forums gang. Kudos to them.

Welcome to Meguiar's Online!

A big thank you to the members on F-150.com

Using the Megs forum thread research, I understand I am to start with the least volatile product and work my way up, starting with the Scratch-X. However, and noting, the problem again lies with the entire hood--reading that Scratch-X is for spot on removal.

Actually, if you read the back label on any tube of ScratchX it states the product can be used for spot repair, (like any paint cleaner on the market), or over the entire car, (again, like any paint cleaner or swirl mark remover on on the market).

If you already own ScratchX and a W-8006 polishing pad, then give this a try with your DAP on the 4.5 to 5.0 setting, move the polisher slowly over the surface and only carve out a section about 16" square. After making a few passes in two different directions, wipe off the excess product and inspect.

If the area looks better but is not completely restored, the re-apply more ScratchX and repeat the process until you're satisfied with the results. Then, move on to a new section and overlap into the previously worked section.

If you don't own ScratchX, or you don't find it's working well after your first try or two, then pick up a quart of M80 Speed Glaze and repeat the above instruction.

If the M80 doesn't work then you can try M83. Sooner or later you'll find a product that will get the job done with the idea being to use the least aggressive product so as to remove the defect while leaving the most amount of paint on the car.

There are some water spots, (Type II Etchings), that are deep enough into the clear coat that they cannot be completely removed. In these case they can often be improved to the point that the results are acceptable versus having the hood repainted.

Also, read this,

Using the G-100 to remove swirls with the Professional Line


Don't worry about never having used the DAP before, it's small and light weight and easy to use. Just don't turn it on until it's in contact with the finish and don't lift it off the surface until you've turned it off.


Long Beach And South Bay Mercedes-Benz clubs at Meguiar's

A little girl and her Grandma learning how to polish remove swirls and polish paint to a swirl-free finish just like a couple of Pros!





Turning this,



Into this!

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Acid Rain etch & G-100

Since your above post was your first post, here's this...


Hi

Welcome to Meguiar's Online!

You'll find lots of friendly and helpful people on this forum always willing to lend a cyber-hand!



List 'O Links

Many of the things we cover in our Saturday Classes are discussed and talked about in the threads found in the sub-forums of the Information Station


Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle
How To Remove Swirls By Hand
How to remove a defect by hand with ScratchX
Using the G-100 to remove swirls with the Professional Line
Circles or Straight Lines?
Which LSP is Best for Light Colors
How to locate Meguiar's Professional & Detailer products in your hometown
How to tell when a Meguiar's wax is ready to remove - The Swipe Test
The Dual Action Counterweight "Controversy"
What are the Differences Between Meguiar's Waxes
What's the Deal with "Layering"?
Measuring Clear Coat Thickness
Rotary vs. PC vs. Regular Orbital Buffer
Glass Polishing...Deep Cleaning
NXT Tech Wax Cure Time
Suggested Products for Taking Care of a New Car
Colored Waxes - Do they really work?
PC + #83 not "Cutting" it! - The Limits of the Dual Action Polisher
What it Means to Remove a Scratch
Why Meguiar's Recommends Polishing Paint
A Lesson From White Paint
Each one, teach one... Ferrari Fiorano 355 F1 Spider

[rustyzipper]

Re: Acid Rain etch & G-100

Thank you for your time, Blue Zero, Mike P. and others answering.

I think it would be a good idea to first get the DA squared away. I have nothing but the polishing pad that came with the DA. Can you, (others) recommend the simplest, quickest, and the best way for switching out pads. I've noticed the Velcro backing plate, but I've also noticed other applications for pads. If the Velcro happens to be the best way I'll stay with it.

I'm good with the Scratch-X as it seems like the real deal. Everybody is using this product. How much SX will I need for a whole hood? Does the Scratch-X come in a bigger package or is it marketed this way because "a little goes a long way" or would it be because of shelf life issues?

By the way, I've tried the "Medallion paint cleaner" and it did not touch the etching using a high speed rotary buffer. Made it smooth as a baby's behind though.

Moving up the ladder to #80 Speed glaze. Do the same speed numbers (4.5 to 5.0) setting apply using the DA and the #80? Would I use the same W-8006 polishing pad with the #80 Speed Glaze as the SX? I do realize I am to use new pads for different products eliminating cross contamination. I'm more concerned using the right kind of pad(s) with the right product.

The same questions pertain in reference to M83.

Right now I would have to say my hood would have the type II etching. There in-lies other concerns knowing when to stop (i.e.) removing to much of the clear coat. How do you know when to stop?

I really appreciate the knowhow.

P.S. Mike I've found the sticky above for the Product, Pad and Speed settings for the Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher.

Thank you again, it's very intuitive.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Acid Rain etch & G-100

I'm good with the Scratch-X as it seems like the real deal. Everybody is using this product. How much SX will I need for a whole hood? Does the Scratch-X come in a bigger package or is it marketed this way because "a little goes a long way" or would it be because of shelf life issues?

ScratchX is about as aggressive as our M82 Swirl Free Polish when compared to our cleaner/polishes applied using a PC, that is to say it's not very aggressive at all. In fact it's on the mild side. You can try ScratchX and if you're seeing good results this means your clear coat is probably on the soft side versus the hard side of the spectrum.

You can always apply multiple applications.

It comes in a tube for marketing reasons we think. It does not come in a bigger package and it has a 3-5 year shelf life as long as it does not freeze.

Moving up the ladder to #80 Speed glaze. Do the same speed numbers (4.5 to 5.0) setting apply using the DA and the #80? Would I use the same W-8006 polishing pad with the #80 Speed Glaze as the SX? I do realize I am to use new pads for different products eliminating cross contamination. I'm more concerned using the right kind of pad(s) with the right product.

The answer is "yes" to all of the above questions, speed setting 5.0 offers more power and thus more paint removing ability. When you go past the 5.0 setting you get even more power but over time the PC will generate enough heat to cause the Velcro on both the pad and the backing plate to de-laminate.

The same questions pertain in reference to M83.

Same answers as above.

Right now I would have to say my hood would have the type II etching. There in-lies other concerns knowing when to stop (i.e.) removing to much of the clear coat.

How do you know when to stop?

From experience, trial & error and we hope less error.

Seriously, even with a paint thickness gage, it's hard to know when you've gone to far until you've gone too far and you see pigment on your pad because you've removed too much clear coat.

In the big picture, as long as you're careful you should be able to remove the defects to a satisfactory level. In the bigger picture, removing the defects is where you should focus your attention as most people struggle with this while going to far should be less of a concern because if you can't remove the defects then you're likely not going to go to far because you're unable to remove enough paint and this is usually related to technique and/or paint that is very hard.

Do a test spot with your products of choice and see what you can do in a small area before tackling the entire hood or car. Work an area about 16" squared and just see what you can do.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Acid Rain etch & G-100

Be sure to read through this,



Using the G-100 to remove swirls with the Professional Line

[rustyzipper]

Re: Acid Rain etch & G-100

Thank you Mike...I'm reasonably sure I have what I need. If not, in the imperious words of your Governor, I'll be back .

[Rockpick]

Re: Acid Rain etch & G-100

Welcome to Meguiar's Online!

A big thank you to the members on F-150.com

Bummer... rusty didn't even mention f150online.com. That's a little disappointing... *shrugs*