Applied NO.80 Speed Glaze N product won't come off

[prince_ramses]

Hello all,

I just tried to use my G-100 with No.80 Speed Glaze on a test spot on my car. The problem is that there are certain areas on the panel where the No.80 wont buff off. In sticks to the panel and causes a hazy look. I had tried to spray some Quick Detailer to assit in romoving it, but it does not work. Only way i could remove it was by hand using a light polish. Some parts of the panel buffs of with no problem.

Is there something wrong with my paint or my technique?

Thanks you.

[Mike Phillips]

How warm was it when you were using this product?

M80 has to be one of the easiest products to use is why I ask...

[gb387]

Re: Applied NO.80 Speed Glaze N product won't come off

Originally posted by prince_ramses
Hello all,

I just tried to use my G-100 with No.80 Speed Glaze on a test spot on my car. The problem is that there are certain areas on the panel where the No.80 wont buff off. In sticks to the panel and causes a hazy look. I had tried to spray some Quick Detailer to assit in romoving it, but it does not work. Only way i could remove it was by hand using a light polish. Some parts of the panel buffs of with no problem.

Is there something wrong with my paint or my technique?

Thanks you.

I agree with Mike, its very easy to use?

I have not had problems with it at all but did you let the product dry? Some products if you let them dry the become very hard to remove (#81 for example). In the case of #81 I hit the haze spot again with some #81 and the remove.

Just a thought.

[prince_ramses]

Hello Mike and the rest of the gang,

Thanks for your feedback. I agree with that No. 80 was very easy to use the last time i detailed my first car. Had no problems with removal and etc...

However this time, i was surprised. Back to your question Mike, air temperature was 36 deg C and surface was probably 25 to 28 deg C.

Thanks

P.

[silence]

So with the #80 you don't let it dry after you apply it to a panel you should remove it befor going on to a new section?

[prince_ramses]

Hi Silence,

I polish and wipe off each panel before moving on. As i mentioned earlier, its strange that on the same panel, some areas buff of easily while and some just wont come off.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by silence
So with the #80 you don't let it dry after you apply it to a panel you should remove it before going on to a new section?

In the Meguiar's line, the only products you let dry are our waxes, everything else should be removed after it has been applied and worked in. After you have applied a compound, paint cleaner, cleaner/polish or pure polish, and worked the product against the finish or into the finish, after that there is no other benefit to letting the product sit on the surface any longer or letting it dry.

Some people prefer to apply and remove products section by section or panel by panel and some people will apply a product to the entire car before removing. Which method you prefer is up to you and in part your skill level. Some products remove easier if they are removed before they dry, if you apply a product to the entire car before removing, it's very likely that before you remove all the product some areas will have dried. If you want to be safe and insure removal is as easy as can be, then remove your products as you move around the car either section by section or panel by panel.

[prince_ramses]

Mike,

I kinda got worried after that experince and decided to send it to a profersional detailer.

He did the full works on the car:-
1) Diamond Cut
2) DACP
3) Speed Glaze
4) NXT

Guess what, the same thing happened. He had no problems with applying and removing Diamond Cut and DACP, but when he came to Speed Glaza, it would not come off.

He was also just dumb founded. The product just stuck in patches on my car. He said that there something wrong with my clearcoat. It seems to bond with the Speed Glaze, and not the other stuff. Why Speed Glaze, he's not sure.

Do you have any idea why this is happening?

Thanks

P.

[Mike Phillips]

Here's a couple of ideas...

1. If he used your bottle of Speed Glaze, the possible it's the product in that bottle.

2. If he used his own bottle of Speed Glaze, then it sounds like it's specific to the paint on your car.



Just so you know, the second idea is just so unlikely as Speed Glaze is one of the easiest products to use and especially to remove.

The only other ideas I have are temperature and humidity related or overuse of product. I will ask Tom McDonald and Mike Pennington to read this and ask for their thoughts.

Definitely an unusual problem that is the exception, not the norm.

[Tom MacDonald]

I agree with Mike on why this may be occuring. If the bottle was the same one you had used, it would be a combination of product and paint causing it. If it was just product you this would be happening on the entire car. If it was his own bottle then the paint has something happening causing this problem. Has the car ever been repainted?

~Tom

[prince_ramses]

Dear Mike and Tom,

Thanks for the feedback.

First, the detailer and I both used our own No.80, so i don't think its a problem with the product.

I think we can all agree that Speed Glaze is one of the most user friendly product. So I think its a problem with the paint. But what's wrong with it?

I don't think the car has been resprayed by the previous owner. The detailer measure the paint thickness, was about around 3.9 to 4.5 mils on average. But i could be wrong.

If the car was resprayed, what could cause a problem like this? Or could it be that the intergrity of original clearcoat has diminished thus causing the problem.

[DaveBM]

"The detailer measure the paint thickness, was about around 3.9 to 4.5 mils on average. But i could be wrong."

How do you do that?

[Tim Lingor]

Hey Dave,

You need to use an Electronic Thickness Gauge to measure the paint's thickness.

Tim

[DaveBM]

I could probably do with one of them to make sure im not polishing too much!!

Thanks 2hotford