questionf for superior shine

[rsxgamer]

--Say you make a pass with 83 as your first step with a yellow pad and it doesn't come out to your liking. Do you apply 83 again w/the yellow pad or move up to the maroon pad? I am having this problem right now.

--Most follow up 83 with 80. Do you follow up 83 with 9? This is what I have. Any disadvantages to doing this. My logic is that there shouldn't be much more of an advantage of dropping from 6 to 4 on the cut scale to warrant buying #80 online vs. going from 6 to 3 in cut scale and buying #9 at my local pep boys.

--what is your rule of thumb for giving up on a defect? If you can fit your fingernail in it? If you try 84/85 (with maroon pad) and it doesn't come out? How much extra cutting power does wool give you over maroon foam and what would you recommend wool pads for?

-i am doing a black vette similar to the AMAZING blue one you guys did with 80 and NXT. Did you use pc or rotary? I, unlike most, did not get the pc to use for a while before upgrading to rotary. I got both at the same time and dove in head first. My fav is easily my hitachi rotary and my pc is more for applying #21.

--do you guys use the pc as a finishing tool? example

83 via rotary (maroon)
9 via rotary (yellow)
9 via pc (yellow)
7 via hand
21 and/or 26

i've heard of people using the pc to take out marring caused by the rotary. even if you are super careful/skilled, should this extra step be taken (the 2nd #9 application)?

Keep up the good work. Look forward to more of your pic posts.

[Chex]

seems this thread hasn't been answered yet, but I can help you solve most questions you have:

If your goal is to remove defects, and M83 with a yellow is not doing the job, then moving on to the cutting pad is a good option.

If your goal is to make the car shine, move on to something less aggressive like 82, 80, or 9. maybe hand polishing could be another option in this case.

sepping from 83 to 80 gives you a more flawless finish. this means that swirls will be much less noticeable, but it depends on how perfect you want your job to be done.

I give up on defects if they are way severe, or if the scratch is very deep. in this case, it is said that if you can feel the scratch with your fingernail, then it is very deep to remove "safely" which in this case means that maybe you can remove it, but the paint will be very thin in that part, that could cause paint failure in a short time if that place is not well maintained.

a wool pad and a foam cutting pad could be compared sort of like using 83 and 85: you'll cut (remove) defects faster, but at the same time rising the probability of instilling swirls because the fibers of a wool pad tend to put their scratches on paint

and the last thing is that when you apply a product with a PC after polishing with a rotary, most swirls become even more unnoticeable. so usually this step is to make a good job, better; or a perfect job, immaculate. so you could call it as a finishing tool, but to perfect the finish as best as it can be done.

hope this helps

[Mike Phillips]

Re: question for superior shine

Originally posted by rsxgamer
--Say you make a pass with 83 as your first step with a yellow pad and it doesn't come out to your liking. Do you apply 83 again w/the yellow pad or move up to the maroon pad? I am having this problem right now.

I'm going to guess you're referencing the above with the use of a rotary buffer?

If so, you could go either way, Meguiar's always says to use the least aggressive product to get the job done, following this philosophy, before substituting a more aggressive product, you could try making a second pass with the M83 with the W-8006 polishing pad.

Often times it's the 2nd and 3rd pass that you'll start to see the visual difference.

If the combination of M83/W-8006 isn't working fast or effectively enough then you can substitute a more aggressive pad or product or both.

If M83/W-8006 combination isn't working, another good option would be to try M84/W-7006 with the rotary buffer.


If you're talking about getting more aggressive with a G100 Dual Action Polisher then the most aggressive products we recommend are our M83 with the W-8006 polishing pad. If this combination isn't working with the dual action polisher then we recommend going with the rotary buffer, not getting more aggressive with the G100

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Chex
seems this thread hasn't been answered yet,

Thanks for chiming in...

[rsxgamer]

thanks guys. i have since perfected my technique, but obviously, there's always room for improvement. I couldn't totally appreciate it because it was on a champagne colored car, but needless to say, I look forward to tackling my black rsx again.

84 w/7006
83 w/8006
7 by hand
21 w/9006
16 by hand

i recently got an old school bottle of 80 and can't wait to throw it in the mix. I've also gotten #5 (i live in louisiana), #26 paste in an old school tin.

#7 was probably overkill, but i didn't want to go in the house.

[n0stra]

perhaps a stupid question but english is not my mother tongue: when talking about "passes". Are we talking about doing a part of the paint several times over with a new dosage of polish or are we just talking about how many times the machine is passed over the same spot?

[Magic]

Originally posted by n0stra
perhaps a stupid question but english is not my mother tongue: when talking about "passes". Are we talking about doing a part of the paint several times over with a new dosage of polish or are we just talking about how many times the machine is passed over the same spot?

Ex.

Applying #80 to a 2x2 area, fully working it in and breaking it down, and removing (Equals 1 pass). Keep in mind while breaking the product down, you will go over one spot numerous times.

Applying #80 again to the same area, (after fully removing the first), would be the second pass.

Hopefully I didn't confuse you anymore..