Rotary for a Newbie? Maybe?

[Elmer]

Well.... I'm still overwhelmed with my new PC, and just ordered another 100 bucks worth of Meguiar's products to go with the 400 bucks worth of them I already received.

I've detailed 2 of my vehicles with the PC, with pretty good results, and already learned a lot. Yesterday I started on my 20 foot mini motorhome. It's got oxidation in the gel cote, and needs some serious polishing. I was using the PC with M67, with the plan of using Flagship Marine Wax as my LSP. It was VERY slow going with the PC, though it was doing a great job.

Would this be better time for a rotary, even for a newbie? Given that the gel cote is so much harder than paint? Would it be safe for me to do? Would it speed up the process, so I might be done before Christmas?

The other use I was considering a rotary for was polishing glass with 04. Doing the vehicle windows by hand isn't a problem, but I'd like to tackle my house windows, and that would be a huge project, and my middle aged arms wouldn't hold up for it.

Are either of these jobs a good reason for a rotary, even for a beginner?

[PorscheGuy997]

I wouldn't use a rotary. You need lots of practice to master the rotary. Even the pros have occasional trouble using one. They can leave holograms, swirls, and can burn through the paint. Though I have never used one, I wouldn't trust myself without having plenty of experience.

It seems like you just got a new PC. I would wait a while and get some experience using it.

If you really want to get a rotary, go to one of those pull-a-part places and find a few neglected panels that you can practice on.

[Elmer]

I wouldn't begin to try a rotary on paint at this stage, I was just wondering if I could use one on Gel Cote without getting into trouble. That and the glass project.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Rotary for a Newbie? Maybe?

Originally posted by Elmer

Would this be better time for a rotary, even for a newbie?

While a rotary buffer can certainly do a lot more work faster, as in remove oxidized gel-coat and restore a smooth, high gloss surface, you'll also have to deal with swirls which are by product of the rotating action of the pad against the finish. The swirls can be removed by re-buffing use a rotary buffer with a less aggressive product or by re-polishing each section using the dual action polisher, either way you're looking at a multiple step process.

Besides swirls, remember using a rotary buffer requires a lot of upper body strength over usually a long period of time. It's easy for a seasoned pro to make using a rotary buffer look easy, but the reality of it is that using a rotary buffer, in most cases, can be a lot of work.

It's usually not a good idea to learn how to use a rotary buffer on something that's important to you and like mentioned, a good way to learn how to use a rotary buffer is to practice on a car that has no value to anyone or obtain a hood or deck-lid out of a wrecking yard.

We don't want to discourage you from pursuing the use of the rotary buffer, but we do want to help you understand the path you're contemplating traveling down.

[Elmer]

Thanks Mike. I'll keep at it with the PC.

BTW, what do you think of going over the motorhome with #50 before using Flagship for my LSP. Would the #50 help polish it a bit more and maybe pick up any remnants of oxidation?

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Elmer
Would the #50 help polish it a bit more and maybe pick up any remnants of oxidation?

Yes and yes.

[Elmer]

Thanks again Mike! That's what I'll do.

I tried using just the #50, but the oxidation is just bad enough that the #67 seemed to do the trick, albeit, very slowly. I'm probably using too much product, but it just seems to disappear so quickly.