Wet Sanding New Acrylic Lacquer

[skin]

Hey

I have just completed painting a car using a Dulon Metallic and have just started colour sanding it using 1500 unigrit, this has removed a majority of the minor orange peel I had and left a slight white haze. I assume this white haze will cut out?

The roof however was really bad to start with and looks like it will need some more work. What is my best cause of action to tidy it up? and does anybody have any hints for painting roofs in the future? it is the one place I cannont get looking ok off the gun.

I have also been using a slow DA with grade 6 rapid cutting compound to start cleaning up the sanding marks is this going to be sufficient or am I better off investing in a good rotary buffer? If so what speed is recommended for buffing an acrylic lacquer?

Thanks alot for any help

John

[Mike Phillips]

Hi John,

Welcome to Meguiar's Online!

Unless the paint is fairly soft, chances are very good you're going to need a rotary buffer to successfully remove all of the sanding marks.

[skin]

Thanks for your input, it is a couple days old and from what i understand acrylic lacquer's are hard paints so looks like rotary is the way to go.... have heard they have a tendancy to melt tho so any recommendations on speed?

I see you work for PPG, thje paint I used was a PPG Dulon Metallic Blue with a 1K Clearcoat on top. I used an expoxy sealer (CT Self etching stuff) and then a Dulon 1k Primer..

Cheers for your help

John

[Mike Phillips]

Hi John,

I don't work for PPG, I work for Meguiar's. The quote in my Sig File is from a friend who works for PPG


Rotary buffers don't burn paint... you do when you make a mistake!


There's a link for you in a similar thread I was involved in here,

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11026

Watch the online video from one of the links... You want to take things very carefully or you will make a mistake. Here's how I've been typing the same advice for absolute years...

It's best not to learn how to use a rotary buffer on something that's important to you...

That's where you are right now. You need to learn how to use one on something that's not important to you, like a junker car.

[skin]

I will be starting on something that is nothing don't worry. My background is fabrication not paint finishing so I will prob have to learn to be a bit more gentle but I think I have done ok so far and with a bit of luck I will end up with a paint job similar to what I could afford with less $$$ spent and the satisfaction of doing it myself.

Still keen to here roof painting tips from anyone with a bit of experiance.

Cheers for all the advice.

[Brillantisimo]

TO PAINT, SAND AND POLISH COMFORTABLY TRY TO PLACE YOURSELF ON A BASE THATS LEAVES THE ROOF BETWEEN TO THE HEIGHT OF THE WAIST AND CHEST. TO SAND AND POLISH IMAGINE TO SHARE THE ROOF FOR SAME AREAS TO GO CHECKING AS MUCH AS IT LACKS OF SANDED AND REFINED, IT MAKES EFFECTIVE AND LESS BORING THE WORK. TO REVISE IT LOOKS FOR A LANTERN AND IT PLACES YOUR LOOK IN AN INDIRECT WAY TOWARD A SIDE AND TOWARD OTHER AND TRUTH IF THEY ARE NOT REALLY MARKS OF SANDED. INS SEIZURE THE BEST WORK MAKES IT WITH A ROTARY BUFFER TO MEDIUM SPEED 1400-1500 RPM. CARE WITH THE CORNERS AND EDGES, COVER THEM WITH MASKING TAPE

[skin]

Today I went and picked up a rotary buffer and had a bit of a practice on an old car we have before trying my luck on the rear quater panels of my newly painted car....... so far I have no stuffed up and the results are amazing.

I would rate the rotary buffer as my single best purchase in terms of paint care ever. Can't wait to finish wet sanding the shell and fully cut it before cracking out the meguiar's.

Thanks for the help guys I will post some finished pictures when it is all done.