Deep Crystal Polish vs. Show Car Glaze

[heebzman]

Hey all,
I did a search and didn't really see an answer. I have just finished up my bottle of DC Polish. I have a full bottle of Show Car Glaze that I have only used a few times.
My question is what is the difference between the two ? If I have really only ever used DC, will going to Glaze be a big or little jump ? Should I continue to stay with DC or would SCG fill in just as good ?
I use a PC to apply. I know both are pure polishes, but I wonder if one is easier to work than the other.

Any comments, suggestions, idea's ??

Matt

[Vandelete]

they look almost the same..characterisc are almost the same...only the job it performs has some small differences.. the #7 show car glaze has some more slickness Imho...the DC Polish has a little cleaner job to do at the same time (correct me if i am wrong)

[heebzman]

Now I was under the impression that both were "pure" polishes which means that they shouldn't have any cleaning properties...right ??


Matt

[rusty bumper]

I've never used DC #2 polish, but if it has any cleaners in it, I'm sure they're very light at the most.

#81 Hand Polish is rated at 1 on the abrasive scale.

Here's an indepth look at Show Car Glaze (#7) written by Mike Phillips......
**************************************************
Hi,
As someone else pointed out, #7 is a high oil content product. In fact, it's mostly oil. I could tell you more about it, I have over 7 pages on just this product alone in my forthcoming book, How to Polish Paint. it's really quite a unique product.

For the last 15 years I have seen a lot people comment as to how hard the product is to get off.

Usually, (and I'm not saying this is what your did), the person makes a couple of mistakes.

#7 is a non-drying oil.

One of the many things it can be used for is to make paint look wet, thus the name… Show Car Glaze.

The reason it can do this is because it is a non-drying oil. Think about it, when you get a brand new paint job, or if you spray some rattle can paint… before it dries… it looks wet, because it is. It hasn't dried.

It's hard to get the "Wet Look" with something they dries, especially if it turns white/opaque.

You cannot make something "more clear" with something that is "opaque".

#26 Yellow Wax, (which is a polymer/synthetic for the most part), dries clear, it does not turn white. It turns the surface very dark and deep however.

So the mistake most people make when using the #7 is this.

1. They apply it to thick - this makes it extremely hard to remove
2. They try to remove it like a wax.

Two tips.

First Tip - Apply #7 with a thin coat

The idea is to "Push" the product into the pores of the paint, allow it to cure or dry, (if it's a drying product) then wipe off the material remaining on the surface. Sure some product remains on the surface, and there are a lot of opinions concerning "Layering", but suffice to say, there is a point of "Diminishing Returns".

If it were true you could create a "film-build" of product, that would mean that after enough coats, you would no longer be applying a coat of product onto paint, but in fact would be applying a coat of product onto a "film-build of product", (In other words, your layers of wax/polish/protectant/polymer/sealant/synthetic, or whatever word/term you want to use to describe your protective coating.

Kind of like trying to re-create a "Clear Coat". Last time I checked, nobody's product is clear, at least not like the clear resin a clear coat of paint is made from, (clear resin is often slightly amber in color)

So I don't know if I subscribe to the "Layering" theory. I am experimenting however, with multiple coats after coat of product on my black demo panel here in my office, so far, no "visible film-build". I do believe that two thin coats are better than one, and three coats wont' hurt. After that, I don't know. I would at least let some time go by.

So apply #7 thin. Use a soft foam applicator pad.

Second Tip - Removing #7 requires a special technique, not the same kind of technique you remove a wax with.

Most people remove their wax like this. Start in one area, begin wiping until all of the wax is removed in that area and then move on to virgin territory.

This will not work for #7. The "Act" of removing #7, tends to "Re-liquefy" the product, basically creating the smearing around effect that you experience when you apply it.

Instead, "Break" or "Disrupt" the "Continuous" layer of film-build and then move on to a virgin area and "Break this film-build up.

You see, #7 doesn't actually dry, but… it will "Skin", somewhat like homemade pudding.

This "Skin" is easier to break up and remove then the more liquid film is.

By breaking up the continuos film-build and then moving on, you are exposing a fresh layer of the film to the air where it will skin. The next time you come around, it will be easier to break up and remove.

So the idea is to apply a thin coat to the entire car.

Then, Go around the car two to three times, removing a little bit at a time.

A big soft, high quality, 100% cotton, terry cloth towel works best for the first two passes, and then switch over to a Microfiber polishing cloth for the last pass. Microfiber polishing cloths have an affinity for both water and oil based liquids and will remove oily residues much better with less fiber inflicted scratches.

Anyway, that’s what my experience has taught me after applying and removing gallons of #7 over the years, to every kind of car with every known type of paint.

Another person mentioned it will wash off. This is true. #7 is a "Body Shop" safe polish. It has no "Lasting Characteristics", i.e. it contains no ingredients that will affect "Paint Adhesion", typically waxes or silicones. (There are what are called, "Paintable Polymers", Meguiar's uses these in the "Speed Glaze", a body shop safe, cleaner/polish).

#7 is not meant to last. The idea is it will not semi-permanently "seal" or "Cap" the pores of the paint. (waxes, sealants, synthetics, polymers, whatever you prefer to call them act to semi-permanently seal or cap the pores of the paint. Nothing is permanent, at least not according to the theory of Entropy. This can lead into an entire discussion of "Permeable and Impermeable, but I digress).

This is important when used on solvent-borne paints because it allows the solvents to continue to work their way out of the paint resin through "capillary-action", (I think). The idea being that paint that is fully cured will be harder and last longer than paint that is not fully cured, i.e. softer and will not last as long.

How important this is to Catalyzed paints I do not know. The Synthetic wax crowd usually tells everyone it is safe to wax catalyzed paint shortly after they are sprayed. While this may be safe, I know that paint manufactures "Still" recommend waiting 30/60/90 days before you apply any type of "Sealant", i.e. wax to the surface. Best to follow manufactures recommendations when dealing with something as expensive a s new paint job, not to mention all of the work and inconvenience getting a car painted causes.

#7, in my opinion works better on single-stage finishes, either modern or traditional. For the wet-look, either Deep Crystal Polish, (very much like #7 but in Meguiar's Consumer line), is easier to apply and remove or #80 Hand Polish in the Meguiar's 80's series, (Body shop products, only comes in a quart).

I'm sorry you had a hard time applying and removing the product, perhaps if you try again, following my tips you will have better results.

By the way, as someone else commented, usually, #7 is applied first, then wax is applied over it. This is because the #7 is water soluble and the wax isn't', thus the wax will act to "Lock" or "Seal" in the #7.

However… right before a show… to make the paint look wet and to fill in hairline scratches, it is perfectly aright to apply the #7 on top of the wax, thus the name… Show Car Glaze.

It was never formulated to be a lasting product, but instead a Beauty product.

With that said… if your goal is to make the paint it's darkest, deepest and wettest looking, then I submit your best bet is a product that is oily and doesn't dry. Yes, it might be temporary, but the show only last one to two days sometimes three.


That's all … hope this helps,

Mike Phillips

[rusty bumper]

Re: Deep Crystal Polish vs. Show Car Glaze

Moderators.

Please delete this accidental post.

[Slicked]

Re: Deep Crystal Polish vs. Show Car Glaze

Both pure polishes, DC2 is designed for clear coats. I'm surprised you finished your bottle...my M07 bottle has lasted 4 years so far and not even halfway through

[Joe Dragon]

Re: Deep Crystal Polish vs. Show Car Glaze

They're not both polishes; one is a polish and the other is a glaze. Different functions.

[RPPM]

Re: Deep Crystal Polish vs. Show Car Glaze

Actually, they are both pretty much glazes, with filling, not cleaning, or cutting (polishing) ability.

[Daniel Kinder]

Re: Deep Crystal Polish vs. Show Car Glaze

They're not both polishes; one is a polish and the other is a glaze. Different functions.

Just to clarify somewhat Joe.
Deep Crystal Polish, (very much like #7 but in Meguiars Consumer Line) Both are Polishes.

Alittle more info written by Mike Philips on this subject to help with confussion, because with all these products and lines it does get somewhat confused sometimes.

Non-Abrasive Glaze or Pure Polish
Historically, the term glaze is used to describe a bodyshop safe, hand-applied liquid used to fill-in and mask fine swirls while creating a deep, wet shine on fresh paint. It's a category of products used on fresh paint in body shop environments, which will not seal the paint surface by depositing a long lasting sacrificial barrier coating using some type of protection ingredients.

A bodyshop safe glaze is used in place of a wax, sealant or coating because it won't interfere with the normal out-gassing process of fresh paint for the first 30 days of curing. The function of a bodyshop glaze is to hide rotary buffer swirls while giving the paint a uniform, just waxed appearance to ensure customer satisfaction. After 30 days cure time its normal to the seal the paint using a wax, paint sealant or coating.

Hiding Swirls
There's a number of reasons why historically body shops use a glaze on fresh paint to hide swirls. Most body shops are production oriented and perform a limited number of machine buffing steps due to time restrictions and profitability. This would include machine compounding with a wool pad and machine polishing with either a wool finishing pad or a foam polishing or finishing pad, both steps using rotary buffers.

The end results are normally excellent shine but with rotary buffer swirls in the paint, (also called holograms and/or rotary buffer trails), that can be seen in bright light. The glaze is normally hand-applied to fill-in and hide the swirls as hand application is fast and relatively effective as long as the swirls are shallow. This glazing procedure produces a finish that customers will accept at the time of vehicle pick-up. The results are somewhat misleading however because bodyshop glazes are water soluble and as such will wash off after a few car washes or repeated exposure to rainy weather and then the swirls will become visible. This is the standard and accepted practice in the body shop industry.


Note: Because there are no rules or regulations governing the definition or the use of the word glaze, manufactures and sellers of paint care products use the word glaze as a name for all types of products that are not true glazes in the historical sense of the word. Most common is the use of the word glaze in the name of a car wax or paint sealant.

[Selectchoice]

Re: Deep Crystal Polish vs. Show Car Glaze

Original post was May 2005...

[Daniel Kinder]

Re: Deep Crystal Polish vs. Show Car Glaze

Original post was May 2005...

Yeah I seen that too but it show's that MOL memebrs do go looking for info and in this case he was searching for some info or just cruizing around the forum, like I've done the last little while. There's ton's of great articles and one could spend half a day reading or more. (not that I've done that on several occasions)

And another good thing though is the post that rusty bumper found on the subject Mike Phillips wrote, some great info that new members can read and I always like to refresh my memory on older products that needs to be in one's aresonal.

[Eldorado2k]

@Stang_Krazy. Ha you're so right^ I went to Autozone today and they had a few interesting Meguiars products clearance priced on a table.. One of them was #7 Show Car Glaze for $7.00 [which is how I ended up here trying to find out more about it:]

Another thing they had was a bottle of Meguiars Convertable top cleaner [which I believe is no longer availiable?] for $5.00
I have a canvas top on my Caddy so it caught my eye, but I passed on it for now as I already have a method to keep it clean.